Axle bearing bad, what about CV Joint?

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Protege5, Lancer Evolution IX
Hello all,
I have a bad axle bearing/intermediate shaft bearing that I'm going to replace this weekend. I was wondering if this bad bearing will cause the outer axle/CV joint to go bad as well? I grabbed the outer axle for movement and it doesn't move. But when I drive in tight circles I get clicking/loud metal banging noise. I'm not too sure if the bearing is allowing the outer axle to move around enough to bang against something to cause noise or what. Anyone's help will be greatly appreciated.

Intermediate_Shaft.png
 
That tight turn clicking sound is most likely the outer CV-shaft at the wheel,... not the wheel bearing. However you may wreck your bearing as well getting the axle out of the hub.

Removing the axle nut and CV-shaft can be a very big PITA.
 
That tight turn clicking sound is most likely the outer CV-shaft at the wheel,... not the wheel bearing. However you may wreck your bearing as well getting the axle out of the hub.

Removing the axle nut and CV-shaft can be a very big PITA.

Forgot to mention that I have a wheel bearing to put in as well. The pass. side is bad so I will do both because I have bad lower ball joints and outer tie rods. Oh and the axle nut is driving me crazy. I fell when my cheap breaker bar broke.

But the good thing is I got to buy a press to do bushings on my other car! :)
 
I'd just replace all the things you know are bad then see if the issue goes away. Too many variables. It's a real b**** to take the knuckles off the first time, but not difficult at all a week or 2 after reassembly.

In my experience, the CV's go bad a while after the boot tears and all the grease is lost. Do you have torn boots?

Good luck with your axle nuts. The second time I did my bearings (they're like oil changes on these cars), I snapped a couple 1/2" drive breaker bars, and could not break the driver's side nut loose while jumping on a 8' cheater bar on a 1" drive ratchet!
 
Impacts don't always work. I tried a 3/4" drive, and it would not budge.

Heat from Oxy Acetylene would likely help. Propane and Map won't.
 
Or,.. as your last resort,.. simply cut the CV-shaft and take the entire knuckle to the machine shop with your new parts,... make sure they press on the correct races or you'll have to do it again,...

An experienced mechanic includes this cost in their quote,...
 
In my experience, the CV's go bad a while after the boot tears and all the grease is lost. Do you have torn boots?

Good luck with your axle nuts. The second time I did my bearings (they're like oil changes on these cars), I snapped a couple 1/2" drive breaker bars, and could not break the driver's side nut loose while jumping on a 8' cheater bar on a 1" drive ratchet!

Impacts don't always work. I tried a 3/4" drive, and it would not budge.

Heat from Oxy Acetylene would likely help. Propane and Map won't.

The CV boots are not ripped or dry/brittle. I think I'll just replace what is bad and see what happens. Also thinking of buying new hubs because I put changing bearings off for months, but hasn't been too many miles.

Or,.. as your last resort,.. simply cut the CV-shaft and take the entire knuckle to the machine shop with your new parts,... make sure they press on the correct races or you'll have to do it again,...

An experienced mechanic includes this cost in their quote,...

This might be a last resort.
 
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As long as the hubs have a good fit with the bearing, you don't need to replace them. They are to be a press fit with the 2 inner races of the bearing.

I actually had to destroy my CV shaft and hub to get the nut off. I took an angle grinder to it. If I had had access to Oxy Acetylene, I may have been able to get the nut off without destroying the axle.
 
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