Installing Morimoto HID Kit and comparison to stock

I cant speak to the hardiness of the oe wiring. I installed a TRS relay harness which powers the HID directly from the battery. The stock wires are only used for an " on/off" signal
 
You will never need that much light for your high beams, trust me. At least on my 06 the HID lows stay on when i activate the high beams and i can see into the future. Using 55w highs with 35w lows would start small brush fires lol All joking aside the high beams arent projectors and that much power would really only produce overwhelming amounts of glare.

Trust me, I DO NEED that much light. I live in a place where its common to have 12 moose on the highway in a 20min drive. More light means Less death! I have a set of hella 500s converted with 55w HID on my Jeep, I get 1000m of light up the road and still would love more. People don't understand what it's like here. There are on average 5 - 10 MVAs per night because people don't see the moose. Also, people need to slow down and drive to the conditions, but I would rather have the light and live, than not have it and DIE. I hit one moose with a set of dumb blue lights before I knew better, and its on like DK now. More light the better.

So, will the 55w fry my harness or housings? I can't see it harming the harness because the stock bulbs are 55w.

I have 35w HID in my highs now, and want to upgrade to 55w.
 
Hey Kojack, you and i had an almost identical Q&A exchange in my thread previously. It sounds like you absolutely have a 100% legitimate need for extreme amounts of forward light. The reason we (the forum in general) are arguing with you when you ask about adapting 55W HID's into your stock lights, is that just sticking 55W HIDs into your stock housings is a poor solution for what you need.

Modifying your stock lights will not get you the distance or beam pattern that you need, and at the same time that it doesn't get you the performance you want, it will bring a lot of negatives as well:
1. your lights will now be illegal, unsafe, and all around inappropriate for driving in any populated areas (you may live in a rural area, but surely you go into town SOMETIMES),
2. excess glare to other drivers,
3. no flash-to-pass,
4. you won't get best performance out of the stock wiring, and
5. you may very well damage something in the stock system (wiring or lamp).

The situation you have described is a TEXTBOOK reason for getting some dedicated auxiliary lights. You should NOT be trying to "get by" with some mods to your stock lights. Buy some 5.25" or 7" Hella or Cibie driving lights with 100W H1 bulbs (or 55W HID if you prefer), wire them up with proper gauge wire and relay, and light up the whole damn forest WHEN YOU NEED TO. And keep your vehicle legally, safely, appropriately, and considerately equipped for driving around others when you don't need the power-of-the-sun lights.
 
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Trust me, I DO NEED that much light. I live in a place where its common to have 12 moose on the highway in a 20min drive. More light means Less death! I have a set of hella 500s converted with 55w HID on my Jeep, I get 1000m of light up the road and still would love more. People don't understand what it's like here. There are on average 5 - 10 MVAs per night because people don't see the moose. Also, people need to slow down and drive to the conditions, but I would rather have the light and live, than not have it and DIE. I hit one moose with a set of dumb blue lights before I knew better, and its on like DK now. More light the better.

So, will the 55w fry my harness or housings? I can't see it harming the harness because the stock bulbs are 55w.

I have 35w HID in my highs now, and want to upgrade to 55w.

Using a harness setup that draws power directly from the battery like the morimoto should be fine for the wiring, since the stock harness is only used for supplying signal.

With regards to frying the housing, you should be OK, since it should generate as much heat as stock.



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Hey Kojack, you and i had an almost identical Q&A exchange in my thread previously. It sounds like you absolutely have a 100% legitimate need for extreme amounts of forward light. The reason we (the forum in general) are arguing with you when you ask about adapting 55W HID's into your stock lights, is that just sticking 55W HIDs into your stock housings is a poor solution for what you need.

Modifying your stock lights will not get you the distance or beam pattern that you need, and at the same time that it doesn't get you the performance you want, it will bring a lot of negatives as well:
1. your lights will now be illegal, unsafe, and all around inappropriate for driving in any populated areas (you may live in a rural area, but surely you go into town SOMETIMES),
2. excess glare to other drivers,
3. no flash-to-pass,
4. you won't get best performance out of the stock wiring, and
5. you may very well damage something in the stock system (wiring or lamp).

The situation you have described is a TEXTBOOK reason for getting some dedicated auxiliary lights. You should NOT be trying to "get by" with some mods to your stock lights. Buy some 5.25" or 7" Hella or Cibie driving lights with 100W H1 bulbs (or 55W HID if you prefer), wire them up with proper gauge wire and relay, and light up the whole damn forest WHEN YOU NEED TO. And keep your vehicle legally, safely, appropriately, and considerately equipped for driving around others when you don't need the power-of-the-sun lights.

Well, I have the 35w in there now and it acutally works (well they did), one of my bulbs died. But I was impressed with the reflector design in the mazda with HID. They put a lot of light down the road. A nice tight beam really. I was expecting light all over the place but they worked really good. Here there is a run what ya brung in lighting when others are not present. and go low beam as soon as you know a car is coming. Its not like there are many people on the highways at night compared to more populated areas so pissing off others is not a concern. I use my brain in those situations. I am going to try the 55w HID in the highbeam with a relay setup. If that does not do it, Its on to installing my 5x7 bosch driving beams with 55w HID in them. No issue with light then. as long as they fit behind the grill of the car.
 
The situation you have described is a TEXTBOOK reason for getting some dedicated auxiliary lights. You should NOT be trying to "get by" with some mods to your stock lights. Buy some 5.25" or 7" … Cibie driving lights with 100W H1 bulbs (or 55W HID if you prefer), wire them up with proper gauge wire and relay, and light up the whole damn forest WHEN YOU NEED TO. And keep your vehicle legally, safely, appropriately, and considerately equipped for driving around others when you don't need the power-of-the-sun lights.
Can you really argue with the guy who works (worked?) in automotive lighting?.. Cibie H1 is best option, IMO. I have an old pair of Cibie that I’m not willing to give up b/c they are so damn powerful. You might need a roof or front mount, setup like rally or off-roader. Sticking H9s (need to mod base) in the stock fogs will give “slightly” more forward light directly in front (useless at high speeds) and corner lighting while you can refocus the lows a TAD higher. 55w HIDs is not going to help but I’m just some random internet guy. Don’t listen to me but you really should heed Sac’s feedback.

Maybe it's just me but I get the feeling that you are fixated with HIDs. While they are better when it comes to the light source, things work best when paired correctly.
 
I don't want to loose my fog light beam, I use them often here. However, I have HID now, it works, and its birght and has a great beam pattern. Low beam and High. I am ONLY asking if 55w HIDs will damage my housings or wiring. That's it, im not getting into who says what etc. I just want to know if the 55w will damage anything.

Also, I have a set of 5x7 bosch driving beam housings that I know put out a great beam. I will install those behind my lower grille area and have most of the light available from them.

I am cool with whatever else someone else wants to use, I know what works for me.

I had my HID in my 5 for 3 years now. I never had an issue with another driver, etc. no matter if it were hid/halogen/candles. When someone has their birghts on they are distracting. I never use them on a road with others. Only when others are not coming towards me or ahead of me. (common sense).
 
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Since you seem dedicated to the idea of 55W HID high beams regardless, no, they won't melt your lamps into a pile of liquid plastic. They MAY do less noticeable damage to the internal structures of the lamp, over time where you are less likely to notice the reduction in performance. But no one here can promise you anything, you may have to try it to find out.

The fact the they both consume 55W is an indicator that the two bulbs are about on the same league, but there is a bit more to it. Different bulb shapes radiate heat in different ways, in different places, and to different portions of the lamp, which may or may not be able to tolerate the additional heat (note that the HID bulb is much longer than the halogen). The different shape and heat signature will also affect the convection currents within the lamps that are used to bring cool air to the bulb and reflector area, and warm air to vents and corners of the bulb (to prevent fogging). How large of an effect will this be? No idea, probably small, but it is a possibility. Though it will be more significant if you wire them with a dedicated relay circuit to get them more juice (power).
 
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I have run 55w ballasts 5k temp in my stock housings for about a year now and i can tell you this. The TRS harness is essential for long term happy. Secondly, the 55w seems to be eating the UV coating on the outside of my oe headlights. Not positive if this is due solely to the high powered HID or a combo of age and HID. Regardless my headlights are flaking like crazy, which is adversely affecting their output.
 
yeah my lights are doing the same, I doubt its due to anything with the HID. more with age and blast from the highway. I may order a new set of housings over the winter and replace them this spring.

I was going to do the polish but someone said it only works for a short period.
 
I was going to do the polish but someone said it only works for a short period.

If you find a kit (i.e. Duplicolor) that includes a clear coat, then your polishing job will last longer.
 
I was going to do the polish but someone said it only works for a short period.

Yes, polishing removes the UV protective layer on the lens which is still operating even though it is yellowing. Polishing and removing it means that the hazing will come back sooner, and it will penetrate through the depth of the lens, not just the surface, so future polishings will be less and less effective. As mentioned, there are some options for replacing the UV protection, just make sure you choose one that is truly permanent.
 
I just picked up a set of the morimoto's and was wondering if you could give me more detail on where you mounted the relay and the ballasts. The pictures seem to be down now. I'm having issues of trying to get the wires to reach...
 
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