AEM Wideband and Prosport Boost Gauge Installation

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Bebotech

Member
:
2002 MP5
Hi Guys,

Just got my gauges in for the fuel/air ration and boost. I am looking for pointers on installation. I have never installed gauges so I figured I ask the community here. I am looking for the best way to get all of the power wires connected and where is the best place for the O2 that comes with the AEM Wide band. As for the boost I have the performance series prosport and it comes with the boost sender, where is the best place to hook up the vacuum line for this sender? Every and all opinions are welcomed. Thanks!
 
On my WRX I run the boost gauge sender T-ed inline off the BPV just like the factory uses. For a wideband I run an aftermarket downpipe with a secondary O2 bung welded in place for the sender. You could have an exhaust shop weld in a fitting on whatever downpipe you're using. I would think yanking out one of the existing O2 sensors would cause the car to run horribly.
 
You need the wideband downstream of the turbo. You're basically using the wideband to measure the A/F ratio of the burnt exhaust gasses before they pass through a cat. The stock sensor is a very basic sender that will basically signal "too rich" or "too lean" and adjust fuel trims through the ecu accordingly (i.e. a narrowband sensor).


I'd get the second bung welded near the factory sensor location in the exhaust system. For my subaru, that equates into the downpipe. I haven't looked at the MSP exhaust layout before, so I'm just assuming it would be in a similar location. Have it placed in a location that's semi-easily accessible and wont be damaged easily.
 
The best place to tie in the power for the gauges is the switched 12V source for the stock instrument cluster. Use the instrument cluster illumination and ground wires for gauge illumination and ground as well. I don't know where these are located on the Protege but they shouldn't be too hard to find. This is the cleanest setup.

The best signal source for the boost (pressure) sender is a dedicated line off the intake manifold. The closer to the head the more accurate the reading. I would not tee it into any existing lines.

If I recall correctly the oxygen sensor should be 12-18 inches downstream of the exit of the turbo for best accuracy and life. I had the Corksport s- and j-pipes on my old P5 and they had a bung right in that space. I don't think the stock components have anything there.
 
So I can get the ground from the frame hook up the dimmer cable to the dimmer swich in the car that way the gauge would light up when the headlights are on. Can I tap into the radio cable on the fuse box for 12V power?
 
The AEM wideband I have has a red, white, black and blue wire. The blue and white wires say they are optional. The blue is for serial output and the white is for 0-5V output. The blue says is for analog output and the white says is to be connected to RS-232 com port for hyper terminal data logging. Can someone tell me if the blue and white cables are to be connected or if not why is not necessary?

Thanks,
 
Bebotech said:
So I can get the ground from the frame hook up the dimmer cable to the dimmer swich in the car that way the gauge would light up when the headlights are on. Can I tap into the radio cable on the fuse box for 12V power?
Click to expand...
The ground and dimmer seem okay. While the radio switched source would work I'm not sure I'd use it. I think most radios are switched on the accessory circuit, which is cut while the car is starting. It's not necessarily a bad thing but the gauge will "restart" after the car is started.

Bebotech said:
The AEM wideband I have has a red, white, black and blue wire. The blue and white wires say they are optional. The blue is for serial output and the white is for 0-5V output. The blue says is for analog output and the white says is to be connected to RS-232 com port for hyper terminal data logging. Can someone tell me if the blue and white cables are to be connected or if not why is not necessary?

Thanks,
Click to expand...
These are only used for datalogging. If you don't have anything to read the output just leave them unterminated. I had the SplitSecond AFC v2 in my old P5, which had datalogging capabilities. I connected the blue 0-5V output wire to one of the SplitSecond's inputs so I can log air/fuel ratios and adjust the tune myself.
 
Oh I see, I am going to look for a circuit in the fuse box that gets power when the ignition is on. I was told that for the AEM just hook up the red and black, as for the Prosport hook up the red and white together to a power source, then the black to a nice ground and the orange to the headlight switch. I am going to use the alarm cable in charge of blinking the lights as my headlight switch source.
 
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