2011 CX9 AWD: Transmission & Differential Fluid Changes

Rawyzf

Contributor
:
2011 Mazda CX-9 GT AWD
Tomorrow I am taking our 2011 CX9 AWD in for a drain and fill of the transmission. I was going to do this at home via the 3 qts at time routine, but without a transmission dip stick, I don't have an easy way to put fluid back into the transmission. So, I am just going to pay the transmission shop to do it. I am providing the fluid. I am not doing a flush, just drain and fill.

Now First off, reading our manual (which doesn't give a change interval for Transmission or Front Differential), the Transmission takes 7qts of JWS3309. If I am correct, the Transmission and Front Differential share the same fluid and that 7 qts will cover all of that? I bought a case of the Mobil ATF 3309 fluid, but just wanted to see if I am correct in understanding that.

Secondly, again reading the manual (which again doesn't give a change interval for Transfer Case), the Transfer Case takes .562qts of SAE 75W-140. I am going to have them inspect this fluid, and I suspect that since we're at 60,000 miles, this will need to be replaced as well. From what I have read in previous threads, this fluid gets pretty trashed from the heat and could be nasty. I plan to run to the store here shortly and pick up 1qt of Syntheic fluid. Probably Castrol if they have it.

Thirdly and Lastly, again reading the manual (which actually does state a change interval for the Rear Differential if you Tow, Drive in Dust, Sandy, Wet Conditions, Low Speeds, Short Drives - Winter I consider Wet Conditions), the Rear Differential takes 1.1qts of SAE 80W-90. I changed this fluid at 50,000 miles and posted this thread with the odd fluid color that drained out (http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...ok-at-the-facroty-Diff-Fluid-50-000&highlight=). The manual says to change this fluid every 28,100 miles (odd number) if you meet those conditions. If you don't, then I guess it's like the other driveline fluids listed above and you're on your own. I don't plan to change this fluid this visit, but just wanted to see if you all are actually changing the Rear Differential Fluid every 30,000 miles or so.

Thanks,
Ryan
 
I have ATF replaced (not flushing, but the dealer uses a suction device to get the fluid out) at 30K/45K/60K/... intervals.
I also have differential fluid replaced at 30K/60K/... intervals.
Both cost about $120 to $140.

Transfercase fluid has not been replaced yet (at 70+K). I will ask dealer for it at my next oil change (at 5K intervals).
 
I have ATF replaced (not flushing, but the dealer uses a suction device to get the fluid out) at 30K/45K/60K/... intervals.
I also have differential fluid replaced at 30K/60K/... intervals.
Both cost about $120 to $140.

Transfercase fluid has not been replaced yet (at 70+K). I will ask dealer for it at my next oil change (at 5K intervals).

Ceric,

Thanks for your reply.

Can you confirm that your Diff service is rear only and that you ATF service included the front?

If you have paperwork possibly?

Thanks
Ryan
 
Cx9 is home and all is good.

They used 7qts of transmission fluid and left me the 5 extra.

They changed the rear diff fluid as they said it looked a little dirty. I didnt provide this fluid.

They also changed the transfer case free of charge because they forgot to put it on the bill. I told them, but they said no biggy since I provided the fluid anyway (Mobil 1 Synthetic 75w140). That definitely saved me a few bucks.

No charge for front diff, so must be part of transmission service.

Grand Total was $ 102.35
 
FYI: Per the email I got back from Mazda, Front Diff and Transfer Case and Transmission should not be serviced. I disagree, and since we are out of warranty I don't mind doing it.

Also, per Mazda, the Front Diff and Transfer Case share fluids.
 
MAZDA REPLY:

Thank you for taking the time to contact Mazda.

Transmission fluid flushes are not outlined in your vehicles owners manual because they are unnecessary.* The fluid put into your transmission at factory is intended to be there for the life of your vehicle.* Transmission replacement is only recommended if the customer accidentally adjusted the transmission level using an incompatible type of fluid, if the transmission fluid levels were overfilled, or when there are any repairs to the transmission itself. Please note that transmission fluid replacement is only recommended on Mazda B-Series Trucks and Tributes and should be performed only at the mileage intervals specified in the owners manual.*

In regards to the Front Differential, this is controlled by your vehicle's Transfer Case which is a sealed unit not requiring to have the fluid replaced.

Should you have additional questions or feedback, please contact me at the number below and reference your Service Request number.

Sincerely,*

Jose F.
Representative, Customer Experience
800.222.5500
Select Prompt 6, then 2, Ext. 1180
 
More info in case anyone cares.

I emailed Mazda back saying there is no way the trans fluid is made to last 200k, and this time I got a different reply.

Also note, there is no front diff in the AWD CX9, it's all controlled by the transfer case.

Reply from Mazda:

Dear Mr. Westphal,

I'm being advised that your vehicle does not have a Front Wheel Differential as this is ultimately regulated by your CX-9's transfer case. In regards to ATF Fluid replacement, I'm being advised that you may want to consider replacing the fluid If it’s discolored, has a foul odor or burnt smell. I apologize for the information that was previously provided to you. The ATF Fluid for the life of the vehicle statement is only applicable for Mazda's with SKYACTIV Transmissions.
 
I noticed that they didn't mention transfer case fluid replacement. I hope that they don't say that it uses the same fluid as the trans. By what i can see it is 2 different fluids. Did you asked them about the transfer case fluid?
 
I noticed that they didn't mention transfer case fluid replacement. I hope that they don't say that it uses the same fluid as the trans. By what i can see it is 2 different fluids. Did you asked them about the transfer case fluid?
I will reply asking that question.

Transfer Case is 75w140 per the manual, so definitely a different fluid.
 
Transfercase fluid is much thicker than the ATF, which is shared between transmission and TQ.
 
Transfercase fluid is much thicker than the ATF, which is shared between transmission and TQ.

Here is the reply from my email asking about Transfer Case fluid change intervals.

Dear Mr. Westphal,

Mazda does not have a recommended service interval for the transfer case as the fluid replacement will be at owner/dealer discretion. Unfortunately its going to be another one of those situations were you may want to consider replacing the fluid if it’s discolored, has a foul odor or burnt smell. Below you will find the capacities and fluid type for your CX-9's Transfer Case.

Capacities for the TRANSFER CASE -- 0.532 L (0.562 US qt, 0.468 Imp qt) of API Service GL-5 (SAE 75W-140)

Should you have additional questions or feedback, please contact me at the number below and reference your Service Request number.

Sincerely,

Jose F.
Representative, Customer Experience
800.222.5500
Select Prompt 6, then 2, Ext. 1180</SPAN>
 
Rawyzf, when we purchased our 2012 CX-9 and discovered there was no dip stick I was concerned with changing the ATF myself but after reading the service manual I decided to go ahead and do it myself. There is a fill plug on top of the transmission case. You do have to remove the air box to get to it but this in no big issue. In any case, having done this now I can say it is very easy to do. The only issue is the fill level needs to be done when the ATF temperature is between 37 and 47 degrees Celsius. I bought a ScanGaugeII for this. The other issue was finding the part number for the fill level plug o-ring! The parts manuals do not show it!
 
Rawyzf, when we purchased our 2012 CX-9 and discovered there was no dip stick I was concerned with changing the ATF myself but after reading the service manual I decided to go ahead and do it myself. There is a fill plug on top of the transmission case. You do have to remove the air box to get to it but this in no big issue. In any case, having done this now I can say it is very easy to do. The only issue is the fill level needs to be done when the ATF temperature is between 37 and 47 degrees Celsius. I bought a ScanGaugeII for this. The other issue was finding the part number for the fill level plug o-ring! The parts manuals do not show it!

Good info, thank you.

So did you just drain all the fluid and add 7qts back in, or how are you checking the level? Or are you doing the 3 qts at a time method until clean?
 
Only about 3.3 quarts comes out with this method. You check the method via a stand pipe that is part of the drain plug. I will take some photos when I do this again (plan for Labor Day weekend) and post them. Basically the drain plug has a 17mm internal hex. Inside this hex is another small drain plug for the stand pipe that is installed/removed via a Torx wrench. I will document the size when I do it. The fill plug is also Torx.
 
As promised here are some photos and a basic description of the process I used to change the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) in my 2012 CX-9 2WD Grand Touring. This transmission does not have a dipstick to check the level or add fluid. Disclaimer: I provide this as guide to assist other forum readers but I cannot and will not assume any responsibility for any issues you may encounter. The final responsibility always rests with you, the vehicle owner.

To begin this process I park the vehicle on a level surface and remove the air filter box. To do so you must disconnect the mass air flow sensor (MAF) connector and the plastic clamp holding the wire harness to the box. The box is held in place to three hex head capscrews near the cold air entry point and the clamp that secures it to the air inlet assembly. The box then pulls straight up from two rubber dampener grommets (first photo surrounded by red) on the bottom. This will reveal the fill plug which is a T55 Torx fitting. This plug was very tight from the factory.

Photo1.jpg

Next, go underneath the vehicle and find the drain & level adjustment plugs. They are shown in the next photo. Remove the level adjustment plug with a T40 Torx bit and let the fluid drain. When there is only a small amount of fluid dripping from it, remove the drain plug with a 17mm hex bit. The next photo shows what the plug assembly looks like when it is out of the vehicle. The crush washer is Mazda part number AW01-19-738 and the o-ring is BT24-19-852. There are many similar crush washers out there from Toyota, Honda, etc. About 3.3 US quarts came out of mine.

Photo2.jpg
Photo3.JPG

When the ATF has all drained it is time to reverse the order. Install the drain plug with a new crush washer and torque to 24-54 N-m. I use the nominal of 39. Install the level adjustment plug with a new o-ring. Tightening torque is 53-77 inch-pounds (65 nominal). Now it is time to add the appropriate new ATF. I used Mazda ATF T-IV / JWS3309 (0000-77-114E-01). The amount to add is just a little more than came out, assuming there have been no leaks. In my case, this was 3.4-3.5 US quarts. Reinstall the fill plug with a new o-ring (AW01-19-476). Tightening torque is the same as the drain plug at 24-54 N-m. Reinstall the air box assembly.

Now you must get the transmission fluid temperature to between 37 and 47 degrees Celsius. If you do this when it is hot outside (I live in Houston Texas) it will not take more than a couple of back and forth drives in a long driveway or short block.

You then, once again, park the vehicle on a level surface with the engine running and remove the level adjustment plug. The fluid will then run out until it is level with the top of the tube that is part of the drain plug. Reinstall the level adjustment plug and you are done. Make sure the ATF temperature stays between 37 and 47 degrees Celsius when doing the level adjustment and the engine is running.

Hope this gives you an idea of the process.
 
Great info, really appreciate that.

Basically, to sum it up.

Remove Air Box Etc to expose Fill Plug.
Remove Fill Plug
Remove Level Plug to drain any overage.
Remove Drain Plug to drain the available fluid (3-3.5qts)
Replace Drain Plug
Replace Level Plug
Pour fluid in fill plug (3-3.5qts, + little more to make sure you have it full)
Replace Fill Plug
Hot Rod up and down the road a few times to get it up to temp
Remove Level Plug to allow extra fluid to drain out.
Replace Level Plug.

All done.
 
Just do not get the ATF over 47 degrees C for the level adjustment or you will be under-filled. Also, you do this with the engine running and the transmission in Park.
 
As promised here are some photos and a basic description of the process I used to change the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) in my 2012 CX-9 2WD Grand Touring. This transmission does not have a dipstick to check the level or add fluid. Disclaimer: I provide this as guide to assist other forum readers but I cannot and will not assume any responsibility for any issues you may encounter. The final responsibility always rests with you, the vehicle owner.

To begin this process I park the vehicle on a level surface and remove the air filter box. To do so you must disconnect the mass air flow sensor (MAF) connector and the plastic clamp holding the wire harness to the box. The box is held in place to three hex head capscrews near the cold air entry point and the clamp that secures it to the air inlet assembly. The box then pulls straight up from two rubber dampener grommets (first photo surrounded by red) on the bottom. This will reveal the fill plug which is a T55 Torx fitting. This plug was very tight from the factory.

attachment.php


Next, go underneath the vehicle and find the drain & level adjustment plugs. They are shown in the next photo. Remove the level adjustment plug with a T40 Torx bit and let the fluid drain. When there is only a small amount of fluid dripping from it, remove the drain plug with a 17mm hex bit. The next photo shows what the plug assembly looks like when it is out of the vehicle. The crush washer is Mazda part number AW01-19-738 and the o-ring is BT24-19-852. There are many similar crush washers out there from Toyota, Honda, etc. About 3.3 US quarts came out of mine.

attachment.php

attachment.php


When the ATF has all drained it is time to reverse the order. Install the drain plug with a new crush washer and torque to 24-54 N-m. I use the nominal of 39. Install the level adjustment plug with a new o-ring. Tightening torque is 53-77 inch-pounds (65 nominal). Now it is time to add the appropriate new ATF. I used Mazda ATF T-IV / JWS3309 (0000-77-114E-01). The amount to add is just a little more than came out, assuming there have been no leaks. In my case, this was 3.4-3.5 US quarts. Reinstall the fill plug with a new o-ring (AW01-19-476). Tightening torque is the same as the drain plug at 24-54 N-m. Reinstall the air box assembly.

Now you must get the transmission fluid temperature to between 37 and 47 degrees Celsius. If you do this when it is hot outside (I live in Houston Texas) it will not take more than a couple of back and forth drives in a long driveway or short block.

You then, once again, park the vehicle on a level surface with the engine running and remove the level adjustment plug. The fluid will then run out until it is level with the top of the tube that is part of the drain plug. Reinstall the level adjustment plug and you are done. Make sure the ATF temperature stays between 37 and 47 degrees Celsius when doing the level adjustment and the engine is running.

Hope this gives you an idea of the process.

Well done, dear sir! Using your how to, I was able to complete a drain and fill on the wifes CX-9. Not sure its even been done before, but now that I know how its done I can stay on top of it. Ill probably run another gallon through the transmission in the next week or so. The old stuff that came out was pretty nasty.
 
just a little confusion here.

Original post states 7 quarts is needed. But people have been filling with a little over 3.5 qts.
So which one is it?

Thanks in advance.
 
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