2011 CX9 AWD: Transmission & Differential Fluid Changes

just a little confusion here.

Original post states 7 quarts is needed. But people have been filling with a little over 3.5 qts.
So which one is it?

Thanks in advance.

If you pull the drain plug on the transmission, about 3.5 quarts come out. An additional ~3.5 quarts remains in the torque converter, transmission cooler, hoses, etc.

If you want to get all 7 quarts out, you are going to have to do something more involved.
 
What he said... The full system capacity is ~7 quarts, but a drain and refill will only use about 3.5
 
Ocd...?

I apologize in advance... lol... This is kinda a strong introduction to the forum... Feel free to focus on the bold...

This has basically become a personal brainstorming session over the last few days, and I am just now posting it. Some of the my original questions have been rendered irrelevant by further research, and I have tried to point this out, but figured I would go ahead and post anyway in case the information might help someone else in the future.

Im preparing to change the fluids in a 2007 cx-9 that I just bought with 147,000 mi. I doubt that it has been done before... not ideal!!

I got the impression I should get some new hardware for the transmission (AW01-19-476, BT24-19-852, and AW01-19-738). I compared a few sites and with shipping to my location https://www.mazdabestpartsonline.com has the best deal on the transmission gaskets/o-rings (edit: shoot... placed my order and was notified that they have to order them, and that one comes from Canada and shipping would be higher, so can I get away with reusing the transmission hardware? If not, I will try Mazdaswag)... Should I bother to replace washers/gaskets on the transfer case or rear differential? If so, what are the part numbers? (looks like 99564-1800) This says yes (It inadvertently says to replace washer and tighten drain plug twice... second reference intended to say fill plug...), but upon reading on the forum I think I would feel comfortable reusing the washers on the differential plugs at least once, but what about the xfer case?

I have gear oil (liqui moly 75w90 for the rear diff. and valvoline synthetic 75w140 for the xfer case), but I still need to buy transmission fluid (edit: I went ahead and purchased the Toyota stuff a couple days before posting this). From what I am gathering and cross referencing I thought all of the following might be acceptable options (anything that is TIV/3309 is good, yeah?).

Handy Dandy ATF comparison guide...(V-6217 ATF Application NON-Laminated Guide 6.10.13.pdf)

I like https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) (oil is in the mx-5 currently), so I kinda favor this TLS/T-IV option (5qt, $30.79), assuming it is okay?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) seems like a solid choice (6 qt, $37.50)... This has no tax, making it cheaper than the Idemitsu... seems like a good deal.

I get the impression I should avoid fluids that meet Mercon standards, so I guess I will avoid https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) (3 g, $71.52... indicated in the .pdf above) and https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)(6 qt, $34.95... mentions 3309 in the description)
unless you guys think it is a good option...

Extra useless stuff.....

I know https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) (12 qt, $99.97) is an option too, but it is quite a bit pricier.

Here is one I am curious for thoughts on (or I was before I saw the price...) VW/Audi G-055-025-A2 (.pdf above indicates it is TIV...). It costs too much, but I wonder if it is the same?
(1L, https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) or https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned))

I noticed someone on one thread I read used Fuchs 4400, but again the cost is high... (1L, https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) $23.35 and https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) $33.19)

And the expensive https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)(1 qt, $14.29)... just to make my post exhaustive... The VW stuff makes it look like a bargain!

Im a little OCD... almost reined myself in, but thought the links would not hurt (and might help someone).
 
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Reviving this oldie but goodie. I found the information here very valuable and I just did my 2012 at 68K miles. Fluid looked decent, but glad I did the drain and fill. Mine took 3 quarts and 20 ounces and I did the drain, measure and fill method.

My car is a NorthEast car so the fill plug and drains had to be scraped before the tools would seat properly. This is critical to get the tools inserted properly before attempting to remove them as I suspect the torx could easily strip if the tool is not seated well. That fill plug is on there REALLY tight, when it broke loose I though my ratchet had snapped (and it's not a cheap one).

I went with the MaxLife as I have had good success with that over the years in other Aisin transmissions in my VW's.
 
Always loosen the fill plug first. Draining the fluid and finding that you can't open the fill is a huge oops. If the heads of the plugs are rusty and in bad condition this time, they'll probably be worse next time. Renew them.
 
Came here to learn how to do this, did this job today for the first time, original owner since 2013. Now that the weather is colder, noticed slipping bw 1 & 2 upshift and bit of lockup surge on 5-4 downshift. Only 58k miles, but certain time degraded the OE ATF. Happy to add that it is a good idea to renew the o-rings and crush washer There is a generic/universal o-ring assortment small carded package $5 available at any AZ/OReilys/Advance/PepBoys Dorman part # 80000 has direct match o-rings for both the top T-Case Fill plug and the inner fill level plug. I'll post if I find a parts store brand crush washer. I did not jack the car, came at it from the front of the car pretty easily. What emptied out was essentially black and smelled a bit like toast. 3.5Qts like everyone else. Used the breaker bar to free the to fill plug and the tubular drain plug. Running noticeably better and silky smooth now -drove 70 miles today. Thanks forum!
 
Bumping this old guy up. Ive done this change twice running about 12 quarts through the system over the course of a couple of days. I conveniently forgot that on the last drain and fill I stripped the center torx plug head. I cannot find this part number anywhere. I have a message into the dealership parts department but I thought maybe someone here might know it. The only pictures that even come up online are the ones from this thread! 2011 CX9 175K and counting.
 
Avoid all the ATF fluid level checking and filling from underneath complete hassle and install the OEM dipstick tube like I just did. Super, super easy. Now I can keep an eye on the color and condition and level, plus I can do a simple drain and fill to the proper level in under 30 minutes.
 
it replaces having to check the level and add underneath the car, plus you can look at the fluid and determine its level and condition, if it shifts OK still you can save it from failure by changing the
fluid every 1,000 miles until the dipstick reads all transparent pink on a white paper towel.
 
ATF is dirt cheap considering what it accomplishes, and here's the best deal on the exact correct full synthetic fluid I have been using successfully:
Valvoline DEXRON VI MERCON LV Full Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid ATF
 
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DO NOT USE TOYOTA WS WORLD STANDARD UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES because it has the thickness of water--or JiffyLube's universal works in everything. If you aren't going to buy the correct fluid that I went through all the time and effort to fully research for you and do it yourself then forget all this and wait for it to one day go bananas shifting into 4th. gear which is what first
happens when it is damaged beyond repair.
 
no, because have you ever seen a disptick mounted upside down underneath the car ?
Post something useful or leave troll. And I have done the job already and I was referencing the the top plug, not the under car drain and level set plug
 
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ATF is dirt cheap considering what it accomplishes, and here's the best deal on the exact correct full synthetic fluid I have been using successfully:

According to Valvoline, that is not the correct fluid. They recommend 3 alternatives:

1. Extended Protection Multi-Vehicle
2. Maxlife Multi-Vehicle
3. Import Multi-Vehicle
 
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