After that i wanted to start working on a way to clear up a little more room, i started toying with the idea of removing the door handle and seeing what for leg room i could gain. I gained a solid inch of leg room without the door handle and that got me digging on here where i found a writeup (on TubroMiata) where the guy used NA door tops and fabbed up his own door cards with ABS Plastic in his 10AE, i think that will be the next step for me, Id like the added room and i think his actually looks really good as well, so good non miata people wouldnt know they werent stock IMO
Here is the inspiration
You should have heard me talking about the RX7 on Sunday. I don't need the room but I'm going to be doing the exact, same thing to my RX7 because the lower door cards are destroyed. I was thinking about using fiberglass though. It's probably lighter than ABS and I have a bunch left over from my fan shroud build. It shouldn't be too hard to lay-up some decently flat, bubble-free sheets. Either way, I'll be checking in on this if you decide to do the same.
if you lived closer, iI'd say ill come help and learn from yours, to try making my own haha
ill probably look into doing some of this over the next month or two BUT probably want actually attack it til the MSM goes to storage, thatll give me a couple projects to fiddle with on the car
You should have heard me talking about the RX7 on Sunday. I don't need the room but I'm going to be doing the exact, same thing to my RX7 because the lower door cards are destroyed. I was thinking about using fiberglass though. It's probably lighter than ABS and I have a bunch left over from my fan shroud build. It shouldn't be too hard to lay-up some decently flat, bubble-free sheets. Either way, I'll be checking in on this if you decide to do the same.
If by "probably" you mean "definitely not" then sure! (bs)
ABS is about 1g/cc, fiberglass and polyester resin is about 1.5g/cc.
Where theJeans is going to need to drill holes, cut out chunks, etc. and the panels are non-structural ABS is a good solution for a non-winter car. A plastic capable of sustaining lower temperatures might be a good idea if it will see cooler temperatures. See McMaster for guidance: http://www.mcmaster.com/#about-plastics/=tjsswj
I am partial to UHMWPE and PETG as low-cost durable plastics.
A co-worker of mine and I had discussed making similar door cards, though out of sheet metal. We concluded that using riv-nuts would be a good way to fasten the panels to the doors.
itll be in a 40-45 degree garage all winter, its not heated but it is insulated so the ABS should be ok.
and thanks for the link James, ill check it out then
i primarily am just looking for a way to fit a linebacker into a miata as comfortably as possible. creating new door cards combo'd, with a foamectomy (down the road a new seat) and new wheel will free up a fair bit of space to help me fit better and results in me enjoying driving that much more haha. Ill be completely honest, im not that worried about weight savings/gains i may or may not get from new door cards cause lets be honest, this car is a sunday cruiser that will see 3-5 autocrosses a year. no sense in acting like its a BRC mod haha
There's a remarkable amount of common sense there!
It looks like just replacing the handle with a nylon strap would buy you a lot.
If by "probably" you mean "definitely not" then sure! (bs)
ABS is about 1g/cc, fiberglass and polyester resin is about 1.5g/cc.
Where theJeans is going to need to drill holes, cut out chunks, etc. and the panels are non-structural ABS is a good solution for a non-winter car. A plastic capable of sustaining lower temperatures might be a good idea if it will see cooler temperatures. See McMaster for guidance: http://www.mcmaster.com/#about-plastics/=tjsswj
I am partial to UHMWPE and PETG as low-cost durable plastics.
I didn't realize you could get ABS and UHMW in 1/16" sheets. My assumption was based on how thin I could make fiberglass panels versus what I thought was commercially available for ABS and UHMW rather than weight/volume. Good to know.
Even if it's not THE problem (and let's be honest, it probably is), it WILL keep the car from running right. Not fixing it would be like trying to diagnose a car not starting while the fuel tank is empty. Sure, maybe the timing is set out of phase, but it ain't ever gonna be right until you get the whole "empty tank" thing sorted
yeah plus the 36-2 wheel from Flyin Miata is cheaper than the stock wheel with 4 triggers. i figure not only will the 34 tooth wheel allow more precise timing readings/tweaks in the future but since its cheaper why not upgrade haha
Bingo. It's also damn solid (I've got one on the workbench currently).