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Coilover Installation
- Thread starter Shade_
- Start date
It is pretty straight forward. The only PITA is getting the nut off the top of the OEM assembly because it is recessed. I know there are several people who can offer tips if you have specific questions or issues, but I never found any installation instructions. That is one nice thing about Miata.net. People like to make 10 page write-ups with pictures on how to do a lot of maintenance and installation issues.
Hope this helps. This info is for the front (please take care as i do not accept any harm done to you or the car)
Loosen wheel nuts while on the ground
Jack up car and support with jacks
Take off wheels
Take off brake fluid line from the strut with the little bolt holding it in
Loosen the nuts on the hub(the two big ones)
Take one of them out but leave one in loosly to support the weight of the shock
Unclip the abs line from the strut( I had to cut the plastic tab as it did not just come out in mine, and then i stuck it back on using super super super glue)
Loosen the three strut top bolts do not remove yet
When it is loose jiggle the strut so it begins to sink out of the tower
Now remove the three top bolts
Now go to the hub and hold the strut and remove the remaining bolt in the hub
Jiggle it around and it should come out
Hope it helps
Loosen wheel nuts while on the ground
Jack up car and support with jacks
Take off wheels
Take off brake fluid line from the strut with the little bolt holding it in
Loosen the nuts on the hub(the two big ones)
Take one of them out but leave one in loosly to support the weight of the shock
Unclip the abs line from the strut( I had to cut the plastic tab as it did not just come out in mine, and then i stuck it back on using super super super glue)
Loosen the three strut top bolts do not remove yet
When it is loose jiggle the strut so it begins to sink out of the tower
Now remove the three top bolts
Now go to the hub and hold the strut and remove the remaining bolt in the hub
Jiggle it around and it should come out
Hope it helps
Hope this helps. This info is for the front (please take care as i do not accept any harm done to you or the car)
Loosen wheel nuts while on the ground (21mm lug wrench from car; breaker bar)
Jack up car and support with jacks
Take off wheels
Take off brake fluid line from the strut with the little bolt holding it in(12mm socket)
Loosen the nuts on the hub(the two big ones) (17mm box and socket, breaker bar helps)
Take one of them out but leave one in loosly to support the weight of the shock
Unclip the abs line from the strut( I had to cut the plastic tab as it did not just come out in mine, and then i stuck it back on using super super super glue)(needle nose players, small standard screwdriver or preferably a pick; pray a little)
Loosen the three strut top bolts do not remove yet(12mm box for the back ones; socket with extension for other 4)
When it is loose jiggle the strut so it begins to sink out of the tower
Now remove the three top bolts
Now go to the hub and hold the strut and remove the remaining bolt in the hub
Jiggle it around and it should come out
Hope it helps
I added bolt sizing so you'll know what tools to have at the ready before you start...
Rear is much easier:
Loosen up wheel lugs (21mm)
Jack up car from the rear tow hook; don't worry it's ok as it's tied into the rear support structure.
Support on jack stands at the pinch welds
Use your jack to support the rear beam( easiest way) or you can skip this step and just do one side at a time). DO NOT do both sides at nice without supporting the ber or you will bend the parking brake cables and stretch the brake hoses and possibly tear the abs wires.
Remove the lower shock bolt (17mm socket)
Remove the upper shock bolts (Either 12mm or 14mm socket, can't remember)
On some coilover kits you'll need to reuse the stock upper mounts; you need an impact gun for Jose as sometimes the upper shaft of the shock snaps off when using hand tools; impact is quicker anyway)
Loosen up wheel lugs (21mm)
Jack up car from the rear tow hook; don't worry it's ok as it's tied into the rear support structure.
Support on jack stands at the pinch welds
Use your jack to support the rear beam( easiest way) or you can skip this step and just do one side at a time). DO NOT do both sides at nice without supporting the ber or you will bend the parking brake cables and stretch the brake hoses and possibly tear the abs wires.
Remove the lower shock bolt (17mm socket)
Remove the upper shock bolts (Either 12mm or 14mm socket, can't remember)
On some coilover kits you'll need to reuse the stock upper mounts; you need an impact gun for Jose as sometimes the upper shaft of the shock snaps off when using hand tools; impact is quicker anyway)
Zach@DDMWorks
Member
- :
- 2011 Mazda2
Small note on that upper front strut nut. It is easier to loosen it while it is on the car with weight on the car. It helps to prevent it from spinning the shock shaft. Don't take it off all of the way though. Just break it loose then jack it up and remove the strus/spring, then remove the nut.
Small note on that upper front strut nut. It is easier to loosen it while it is on the car with weight on the car. It helps to prevent it from spinning the shock shaft. Don't take it off all of the way though. Just break it loose then jack it up and remove the strus/spring, then remove the nut.
I left that part out intentionally, if you need a DIY to do this, you may not have a spring compressor to remove the stock spring from the housing.. Sure it's light weight but still has some punch to it...you can do these with ratchet straps, but that's very Crapcan style.
Here's an install with pictures, it's on a Fiesta, but same deal.. I knew I saw a DIY with pics, just couldn't remember where...
http://www.fiestafaction.com/forums/threads/34328-How-To-Change-front-and-rear-coil-springs
http://www.fiestafaction.com/forums/threads/34328-How-To-Change-front-and-rear-coil-springs
Small note on that upper front strut nut. It is easier to loosen it while it is on the car with weight on the car. It helps to prevent it from spinning the shock shaft. Don't take it off all of the way though. Just break it loose then jack it up and remove the strus/spring, then remove the nut.
I wish I had seen that tip before I did my install. Great tip...
BigBlueDart
Member
- :
- 2012 Mazda2 Touring MT
Sorry to dig up an old thread, but does anybody know torque specs for this job? I just got some second-hand k-sports and am about to swap them in.
flatlander937
Member
- :
- '11 Mazda2 Sport
The lower strut to knuckle bolts get torqued to 53-68ft-lbs.
The 3 strut top nuts get torqued to 23-28ft-lbs.
Sway bar link gets torqued to 32-44ft-lbs.
Per this:
https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/sho...uspension-Torque-Specs&highlight=torque+specs
The 3 strut top nuts get torqued to 23-28ft-lbs.
Sway bar link gets torqued to 32-44ft-lbs.
Per this:
https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/sho...uspension-Torque-Specs&highlight=torque+specs
BigBlueDart
Member
- :
- 2012 Mazda2 Touring MT
Thanks! I guess I just didn't look far enough back.
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