Rear brakes gone at 15k..

I'm at 64000km and have noticed my rear brakes have been dragging for the last 15000km. I've serviced them myself twice by taking everything apart and cleaning it. The stickiness and dragging/grinding noise goes away for a few 1000km then returns and still seems to grind at low speeds to a stop. It sometimes drags a little bit heating up the wheel until I apply the parking brake a few times.

My Mazda service manager, when describing to him the problems with the rear brakes, told me that I need to replace both rear brakes (rotors, pads, hardware) and this was without an inspection of the rear brakes (said so on my oil change paperwork and 1 year perforation/corrosion checkup)

I use the parking brake all the time when parked (hence the name parking brake).
Could this issue just be a result of the parking brake needing to be readjusted because of my heavy use?
 
Just rotated my tires, yet still haven't painted the calipers yet (out of paint). But, I got a good look at the rear brake system. To my knowledge, the rear parking brake (PB) is built into the rear calipers and are not adjustable. The PB is cable operated and uses the single piston caliper to actuate the PB. Older Mazda models, however, had adjustable piston calipers, that, when improperly adjusted, would cause drag and premature wear.
Now, using the parking brakes regularly is actually very good for the system. The movement and usage promote free play and rust resistance inside the cable and other moving parts.

P.s- without a qualified technician even looking at the brakes, I would find another Mazda service center that inspects, and not assumes.
 
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I had my cx5 at the dealer last week for other work, they check the brakes as part of their normal workup. With a little over 10,000 miles on the odo, it has 90% brake pads remaining across all 4 wheels according to the worksheet.

Maybe I'm just light on the pedal. I had a 2006 Mazda3 that I sold at 77,000 miles still on its original pads.
 
So my drive to work is extremely easy on the brakes, it consists of two stops, 15 minutes at 55mph then two more stops.

My cx-5 has it easy, with that level of babying it should go 100k before pad replacement...easy
 
Just noticed today my rear wheel tire was extremely hot and there was a burnt smell. I suspect a seized rear-passenger caliper. Will take it in to the dealer and see what they say.
 
I sold my CX7 at ~ 75,000 miles and pad (front & rear) had ~ 20% remaining. I hope the CX5 is as good but, will check at each tire rotation.
 
TSB: 04-003/14

2013-2014 CX-5 - SQUEAKING / GRINDING NOISE FROM REAR BRAKES

APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS

2013-2014 CX-5 with VINs lower than JM3 KE******401869 (produced before Oct. 9, 2013)

DESCRIPTION

Some vehicles may exhibit a squeaking / grinding noise from the rear brakes. This noise may be caused by the wear indicators of prematurely worn outer rear brake pads.

NOTE: The inner rear brake pads will only show a little wear. This condition only affects the outer rear brake pad(s).



During usage of the vehicle in areas where road salt is used, the outer rear brake pad(s) may become stuck due to corrosion. This may cause brake dragging and premature wear to the outer brake pad(s) only.

The treatment of the brake pad back plate has been changed to eliminate this concern.

Customers having this concern should have their vehicle repaired using the following repair procedure.

REPAIR PROCEDURE

1. Verify the customer concern.
2. Remove the rear brake caliper supports and rear brake pads according to the instructions on MS3 online or the Workshop Manual (section 04-11 DISC PAD (REAR) REPLACEMENT).
3. Visually inspect the rear brake disc plate(s) for damage.
If disc plate damage exists, replace it with a new one according to the instructions on MS3 online or the Workshop Manual (section 04-11 REAR BRAKE (DISC) REMOVAL/INSTALLATION).

4. Remove all rust from the rear brake caliper support area, then apply grease.
NOTE: Refer to “Rust Removal and Grease Application Procedure” below.

5. Install retainers to the rear caliper supports.
6. Install brake pad attachments to the rear brake pad.
7. Install modified rear brake pads.
8. Verify the repair.
Rust Removal and Grease Application Procedure:

9. Remove the brake pads and retainers (A) from the rear brake caliper support and discard them.


10. Using a wire brush, remove all rust from the rear brake caliper support area (A) until the surface turns glossy (B).


11. Wipe the area clean, then apply black grease to the area (A) as shown below.
NOTE: Use the black grease included in the rear brake pad sub set / rear brake pad attachment.
 
I had my safety inspection done this past Feb and was informed my rear brakes did not pass. I had 32K miles. No after market rotors available either. I paid around $250 just for parts. Husband is/was a mechanic and does most of our own work. I'm now @38K and the front brakes are gone. Still no after market rotors. This time Mazda quotes me $287 for pads and rotors. This is a 2013 CX-5 GT with the 19" wheels.

I miss my cheap little CR-V.
 
I'm at 32,000 miles and recently inspected my own brakes too at about 30,500 miles. I was once ASE master certified so I know what I'm looking at and my pads were hardly worn. It all depends on how you drive it and no two vehicles or drivers will ever be alike. Also those sliders in the picture above look pretty normal to me with plenty of grease on them. The sliders are sealed with O-rings so as you pull them out they will squeeze the grease off the pins.
 
Why are you replacing rotors (unless you're metal-on-metal)? Just get a machine shop to turn them for 10/15 bucks apiece!
 
Im at 25,000 km and brought the vehicle in for "squeaks" coming from the rear end ,and they (the dealer) advised that both rear rotors needed to be changed because they were warped....i would think that this is way too early for something like this to happen, but i cant say for sure.

needlesstosay, it was replaced under warranty.
 
Warpage, is driver's fault in my opinion. Excessive braking on long slopes. Try to used engine brake(shift down).
 
tibimakai said:
Warpage, is driver's fault in my opinion. Excessive braking on long slopes. Try to used engine brake(shift down).
Click to expand...

"Warpage", or excessive lateral runout can be caused by many things not driver related at all. Some examples include-

-Incorrect metallurgy in the rotor material
-Excessive heat transfer from the brake pads to rotor surface (as when you're braking at a red light)
- sudden heat/cold changes
- improper lug nut torquing and improper torque sequence from technicians
- extra thin material in the rotors themselves (a trend manufacturers are leaning towards for weight savings and costs)

I do not recommend using the transmission to engine brake VS mechanical braking as extra strain on a transmission may lead to premature failure. Brake rotors are much cheaper than transmissions.
 
Skorpio said:
"Warpage", or excessive lateral runout can be caused by many things not driver related at all. Some examples include-

-Incorrect metallurgy in the rotor material - very unlikely
-Excessive heat transfer from the brake pads to rotor surface (as when you're braking at a red light), that is what I have said, long braking down on a hill.
- sudden heat/cold changes- very unlikely
- improper lug nut torquing and improper torque sequence from technicians - very likely
- extra thin material in the rotors themselves (a trend manufacturers are leaning towards for weight savings and costs) -in normal operation it should not happen, otherwise it would be a recall

I do not recommend using the transmission to engine brake VS mechanical braking as extra strain on a transmission may lead to premature failure. Brake rotors are much cheaper than transmissions.- the strain is in the engine, not in the transmission
Click to expand...

I see so many people riding on the brakes and then complain that the brakes wear out to fast.
 
tibimakai said:
I see so many people riding on the brakes and then complain that the brakes wear out to fast.
Click to expand...

So, now you are saying the same people that you see riding the brakes are the exact same people that complain? Did you interview each and every one of them, or are you generalizing? And are you saying it's the OP and Smiley81s' faults that their brakes are wearing prematurely? (confused) The examples I gave you are not my opinion, it's based on facts and on hands experience on almost 20 years of actually working on brake systems.
 
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Hmmmmm, this thread has me a little concerned, or, maybe at least a little confused. This is my first car with rear disk brakes. I've got a pretty good feel for how drums wear over 100,000 miles, it'll be interesting to see how these rear disk pads/rotors hold up.
 
cybercruiser said:
Hmmmmm, this thread has me a little concerned, or, maybe at least a little confused. This is my first car with rear disk brakes. I've got a pretty good feel for how drums wear over 100,000 miles, it'll be interesting to see how these rear disk pads/rotors hold up.
Click to expand...

I'll be keeping an eye and servicing my brakes regularly. It doesn't seem like this is an owner's issue more than a OEM quality issue, as there is a TSB on this matter. If you do your own tire rotations it's easy to check your brake pads through the window on top of the calipers. If you don't rotate your tires, just follow along with me, I rotate mine every 2,500-3,000 miles due to the negative rear camber on this vehicle. Of course, I live in the south USA where I won't get a lot of salt and corrosion, so my experience may not be the same for everyone else, but just a guideline.
 
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