Exhaust Spring Bolt Studs?

zackmac

Member
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2003 Mazda Protege5
I have an exhaust leak in my P5 that I've diagnosed to be coming from where my OBX header meets the SLS midpipe
Put a new donut gasket on when I installed them both maybe 6 months ago

Anyways I went to NAPA and bought the generic studs, springs, washers, and bolts for a mazda. The springs are fully compressed and I can't go any tighter. I think this is why its leaking

Just called the Mazda Dealership and the guy said it would be $63 for 2 of each of the following: Stud, Spring, Washer, Bolt
Wondering if I'm supposed to get 4 nuts and 4 washers, though.

I've been trying to find a diagram to see the part numbers. I placed an order over the phone and they were very rude and wouldn't give me the part numbers.
Anybody have a diagram and know the part numbers? Thanks 2003 mp5
 
I have an exhaust leak in my P5 that I've diagnosed to be coming from where my OBX header meets the SLS midpipe
Put a new donut gasket on when I installed them both maybe 6 months ago

Anyways I went to NAPA and bought the generic studs, springs, washers, and bolts for a mazda. The springs are fully compressed and I can't go any tighter. I think this is why its leaking

Just called the Mazda Dealership and the guy said it would be $63 for 2 of each of the following: Stud, Spring, Washer, Bolt
Wondering if I'm supposed to get 4 nuts and 4 washers, though.

I've been trying to find a diagram to see the part numbers. I placed an order over the phone and they were very rude and wouldn't give me the part numbers.
Anybody have a diagram and know the part numbers? Thanks 2003 mp5
If you've tightened the nuts down so the spring is fully compressed and you are still getting a leak, the rear engine mount is probably sagging/worn out. A worn rear motor mount makes the rear of the engine go down, and this alters the angle of the header, which opens a gap at the donut gasket between your header and the second cat flange.. You can't use exhaust sealant to fix it either.
Replace the rear engine mount or install rear engine mount polyurethane inserts. That will raise the rear of the engine, making the donut gasket seal without having to clamp down on the exhaust springs.
 
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Finally got around to doing this and I still can hear a leak. I'm thinking it is actually coming from the midpipe and the first piece of the catback. I have a racing beat catback for p5, so where that connects to the SLS midpipe

If you've tightened the nuts down so the spring is fully compressed and you are still getting a leak, the rear engine mount is probably sagging/worn out. A worn rear motor mount makes the rear of the engine go down, and this alters the angle of the header, which opens a gap at the donut gasket between your header and the second cat flange.. You can't use exhaust sealant to fix it either.
Replace the rear engine mount or install rear engine mount polyurethane inserts. That will raise the rear of the engine, making the donut gasket seal without having to clamp down on the exhaust springs.

I know what you mean, except I have brand new AWR motor mounts. Less than 2 months ago did these, so I just rattle like a mofo, but the engine isn't sagging.
 
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