Warped rotors

Bonedrivin

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'14 Mazda 6 Touring w/ Tech - '05 Nissan Frontier LE v6
Whenever I go visit my dad, I drive Angeles Forest HWY (google it). Fun road. But for the second time in a year, I've 'warped' my rotors.

Anyone else have to deal with warped rotors on their 6? Would drilled or slotted rotors be better than regular rotors? Seems like it would only really benefit in wet conditions. Plus seems like it would just be less surface area for the pads.

Debating between getting current ones resurfaced <again> or getting new ones altogether.

Suggestions? (Aside from 'stop driving like an ass') (boom07)
 
Warping is really hard to do and generally it's pad material deposited/"welded" to the rotor. A resurfacing just removes it (and not actually grinds anything) and the rotors become plane again. I for one would try changing the pads with different compounds until I find some that suit my particular braking. Try harder ones first (EBC Yellowstuff), then softer ones (Redstuff, Greenstuff) etc until no more problems. Also, you could try changing the braking style, i.e. after a hard long brake and full stop, don't keep your foot on the pedal, release it so that pads break contact to the rotors and don't deposit on the surface.
 
Thanks for the tips. I'll probably end up resurfacing current rotors again and trying better quality pads as suggested.
 
Slightly warped at 30K miles. I'm replacing with factory rotors since they are $65 each and $120 labor. Brakes are not covered under warranty past 12K miles. Turning them will be nearly as costly as replacing and you decrease the material which will lead to warping again but at a lower mileage.
 
Just had mine machined at 30k miles as well. Seems like all rotors are pot-metal from China now. Mine didn't even have a minimum thickness stamped on them.
 
Warping is really hard to do and generally it's pad material deposited/"welded" to the rotor. A resurfacing just removes it (and not actually grinds anything) and the rotors become plane again. I for one would try changing the pads with different compounds until I find some that suit my particular braking. Try harder ones first (EBC Yellowstuff), then softer ones (Redstuff, Greenstuff) etc until no more problems. Also, you could try changing the braking style, i.e. after a hard long brake and full stop, don't keep your foot on the pedal, release it so that pads break contact to the rotors and don't deposit on the surface.

Yup, found this from www.topbrakes.com, which pretty much agrees.

What causes 'Warped Rotors'?

Typically warped rotors are caused not by a failure of the rotor itself. Warped rotors (in most instances) are caused by the brake pads being operated at temperatures outside of their specified range. When the pads get too hot the pad material actually melts and 'fuses' itself to the rotor surface and creates a 'bump' on the surface of the rotor. In most cases this is not noticeable to the naked eye. This creates an annoying vibration when the brakes are applied. The only solution to this is turning (grinding) the rotors or installing new rotors.

We do not recommend turning rotors: It removes additional metal and reduces the the thermal capacity of the discs.
The best way to combat this condition is to use GOOD QUALITY street performance brake pads which have a higher operating temperature range. Properly 'bedding-in' the pads and discs is a must.

When mounting new rotors- they should be installed on the vehicle and indexed with a dial indicator to minimize runout. New rotor runout is typically between .002" - .005" However, failure to mount the rotors ON THE VEHICLE and measure TOTAL runout can cause a vibration even with brand new rotors. You should check hub runout as well- since a very small amount of hub runout (even as small as .002") can create additional runout of as much as .006" - even with perfectly true rotors. This is similar to mounting and balancing tires. Often times a rim and tire combination that would require additional weight to correct balance can be rotated and then require less or no weight to balance. This means you should test the rotor in a number of configurations and install it in the configuration which results in the LEAST amount of total runout.
 
When mounting new rotors- they should be installed on the vehicle and indexed with a dial indicator to minimize runout. New rotor runout is typically between .002" - .005" However, failure to mount the rotors ON THE VEHICLE and measure TOTAL runout can cause a vibration even with brand new rotors. You should check hub runout as well- since a very small amount of hub runout (even as small as .002") can create additional runout of as much as .006" - even with perfectly true rotors. This is similar to mounting and balancing tires. Often times a rim and tire combination that would require additional weight to correct balance can be rotated and then require less or no weight to balance. This means you should test the rotor in a number of configurations and install it in the configuration which results in the LEAST amount of total runout.

...dafuq did I just read?
 
Whenever I go visit my dad, I drive Angeles Forest HWY (google it). Fun road. But for the second time in a year, I've 'warped' my rotors.

Anyone else have to deal with warped rotors on their 6? Would drilled or slotted rotors be better than regular rotors? Seems like it would only really benefit in wet conditions. Plus seems like it would just be less surface area for the pads.

Debating between getting current ones resurfaced <again> or getting new ones altogether.

Suggestions? (Aside from 'stop driving like an ass') (boom07)

Warped my rotors around 17K, they resurfaced them and now at 27K they are warped again with vibration in the steering wheel when braking. I have so far ordered new rotors and brake pads for about $150 and will get them installed somewhere.

It's better than getting them from my dealership which wanted to charge me $4xx to replace my rotors and pads. Just an FYI, Mazdas usually have crappy rotors. For a car they advertise as Zoom Zoom they don't use quality rotors as my 2004 Mazda 6 also had the same problems.
 
I put Wearever Golds from Advance Auto on my 6 after I had the factory warped rotors machined, and I've put around 10k on the car since then. Seems like the rotors like the new pads much better, as the initial bite feels better than factory and there are no vibrations at all.
 
I ended up replacing pads with OEM dealer pads because I was unable to find any quality aftermarket ones. EBC pads were in production, but not available. Rotors were resurfaced for the second time. I should have replaced them, as it appears I may need to some time in the near future (making noise, although no vibration). Hoping that I can get quality aftermarket replacements by the time I gave to do it again. I'm on 31k miles on the car.
 
The wheels are an important heat sink for repeated hard braking so it's important that the interface between the wheel and hub is smooth, clean and flat for even and efficient heat transfer. It's very important to have proper lug nut torque on each lug for the same reason.

Sometimes "warped" rotors are not really warped, the just have pad material deposited on the rotors surface due to localized hot spots. Other times the rotors really are warped due to uneven heat transfer between the hub and the wheel.
 
Update here, I just put a set of Centric premium rotors (120.45084) on front, with some Wagner Thermoquiet (QC1711) Ceramic pads. Everything feels great here at 52k, I will update with any issues as they wear.
 
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I figured I would update this. I'm now at 65k and the Centric rotors and Wagner pads feel like they did new. I think Mazda either cheaped out on the factory rotors, or used too soft of a pad which deposited pad material on the rotors unevenly and caused the "warped" feeling. No problems now!
 
my rotors have been warped since about 12000 miles. I think they were junk rotors also. trying to decide n pads...are the oem pads ceramic or semi metallic. which is better for not squeeling and longevity?

Thanks,

Ron
 
I bought centric rotrs and pads from auto anything for about 180. Dealer wanted 330 for oem pads and rotors. Ridiculous!! Had a little trouble getting old rotors off but other than that no problems rotors were coated so I hope they hold up on our northeastern winters.

I have about 8000 miles on them and so far so good. Sent to be a good oem replace!ment.

Ron
 
Had a little trouble getting old rotors off but other than that no problems rotors were coated so I hope they hold up on our northeastern winters.

I have about 8000 miles on them and so far so good. Sent to be a good oem replace!ment.

Ron

Did you do all four rotors or just front? I tried taking off the rears and couldn't figure it out. Fronts were easy to take off for me (done it a few times now)
 
I just did the fronts. Rotors were a little tough to get off. Is there a trick to get the rears off that anyone knows about?
Just changed my rotors at 30K. These cheap Mazda rotors rusted like hell inside the rotors. Took me a long time to hammer them out. I replaced them with Centric rotors which are painted inside as well! There is no easy way unless you have the tool to push them out. I put anti-seize compound on the spindles so next time it would be easier.
 
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