What is definitive answer on using 2008 Speed3 FRONT sway bar & links on a 2008 5?

flbchbm

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2008 mazda 5 Grand Touring
What is definitive answer on using 2008 Speed3 FRONT sway bar & links on a 2008 5?

I am new to my 2008 Mazda 5 and this forum. I have searched this and other forums with my limited spare time, but I have not found a definitive source/answer on using the 2008 Speed 3 front sway bar and end links on the 2008 Mazda 5. I read that the bar MAY fit, the end links MAY fit w/some drilling for bigger bolts, etc. I know the rear fits from all I read. If I had the time, I would sit here all weekend, but I know there must be other members that can help.
thanks!
 
I personally haven't done it but I think I've seen a couple of regular posters here have made the switch. I think that most elect not to do it because the front speed3 bar is only marginally thicker than the stock 5 bar and due to the degree of difficulty for someone DIYing this with just a floor jack and stands. The mazda5 front bar falls between the 3 and speed3 in thickness while the rear bar is the same between the 3 and 5. The rear speed3 bar is more of a true upgrade and more bang for your buck. I'm sure the parts are a direct swap if using the speed3 bushings/brackets/end links though.
 
The front are strut suspension and still would go to positive camber if pushed hard. This is totally different if you are talking about Miata since it run double wishbone and maintain camber curve much better during cornering.
If you are looking for stability get the upgraded front. If you want the quickest direction change then by any means install the biggest rear swaybar you could find and take the front swaybar off.

Upgrading front swaybar is heated debate pretty much in every forum I visit, and most does not have first hand experience with each combination. I only have MazdaSpeed RSB right now. I regret not buying the front swaybar.

I used to run Tri-Point Engineering RSB and the car and although it give awesome turn in its a bit hairy when you do tail braking especially on the slippery surface. The head snap are unbearably also with stock shock absorber. It does not have enough rebound damping that every suspension transition are handled a bit too fast.

I Respect phunky.buddha's opinion but he is running coil over so the spring rate are much higher with much less travel.

Once I added added Koni yellow it was improved quite a bit but still the RSB are too stiff for a family car. The front on the other hand the KONI seems to have less compression damping and I could really used stiffer spring or stiffer swaybar.

Loosenut are the one that buy my Tripoint swaybar over craigslist? How do you like it?
 
I am. I haven't put it on yet to find out. It's waiting to be put on along with Megan racing lowering springs sometime this month. I told you I was going to use the speed3 springs but have since decided to go a little more aggressive. If I don't like the Megan's then I'll try the speed 3's.
 
I appreciate the feedback thus far. I can see I was hasty in typing my question although it would have prevented some feedback, maybe... Given the helpful responses, would your honor let me rephrase the question?

Does the speed3 bar FIT? Evidently, yes.
Does it stand to reason that any aftermarket bar will fit the front?
Should HD links be added up front with a HD bar?

I will be adding a rear bar, not too stiff though, it's a daily driver. I will also be adding new shocks/struts (brand TBD). No coilovers. Came with 205/50-17 pilots. I'll plus zero when done. NOT lowering! I installed a Curt hitch last week.

I have not had the opportunity to drive the 5 that hard yet (purposefully find the limits for the factory setup. Ie: lose control) to make a decision on future setup. I went to drive in the snow also and it was already cleared and melted everywhere.

I have a modified 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T with Koni yellow strut inserts and shocks along with very HD IPD sway bars/links front and back. All installed by your truly. I just take it on base with my tools and use their lift and spring compressor. $6/hr. The wagon is heavy and I wouldn't want it w/o both bars. The 5? Idk. My last mazda was an 84 B2000. I towed a 19' Searay...what a sight. The boat was longer than the truck.

I want what is difficult to achieve. High Performance in a comfortable daily driver...our roads suck...I'll settle for the next best thing...again, sorry for the limited orignal question...(typos courtesy of public transpo and android)
 
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Does the speed3 bar FIT? Evidently, yes.
Does it stand to reason that any aftermarket bar will fit the front?
Should HD links be added up front with a HD bar?
*Likely Yes
*No, not necessarily. speed3 guys have issues with some bars, not all bars have the same bend in the arms. Some bars are known to have interference with the control arm. More of an issue with lowering, so if you aren't going to lower (as you mention), you may be able to run a bar that would otherwise cause issues.
* Maybe. If you are not lowering, and you are using the ms3 bar, you can likely get away with stock links, though you will be putting more load into those long, thin, stock links. If you are lowered, aftermarket adjustable links may be necessary. If you are running stock springs and aftermarket FSB, I would think an upgraded link would be highly advised simply due to the soft spring, big bar, and long, thin sway bar link. With soft springs and big bar, there is going to be a lot of force going through those links, a lot more than they were designed for. I think you'd need a HD link for that reason, if not for length adjustibility as well.


I will be adding a rear bar, not too stiff though, it's a daily driver. I will also be adding new shocks/struts (brand TBD). No coilovers. Came with 205/50-17 pilots. I'll plus zero when done. NOT lowering! I installed a Curt hitch last week.

I have not had the opportunity to drive the 5 that hard yet (purposefully find the limits for the factory setup. Ie: lose control) to make a decision on future setup.

I agree 1000% (not a typo) with PhunkyB - do not add a stiffer than stock FSB unless you also add a even-stiffer-yet RSB. You will be adding understeer to a car that already understeers.

IMO it makes no sense to start changing things before you've even driven the car and don't know what it feels like. (maybe you're just here doing research as a "what-if" scenario, but it sure seems like you're already pretty much decided what your upgrade plan is) Go do an autocross or two at minimum before you start buying parts, let me know if you don't struggle with understeer and traction coming out of corners - a FSB will make both of those things worse.
 
I Respect phunky.buddha's opinion but he is running coil over so the spring rate are much higher with much less travel.
See below...
I agree 1000% (not a typo) with PhunkyB - do not add a stiffer than stock FSB unless you also add a even-stiffer-yet RSB. You will be adding understeer to a car that already understeers.

IMO it makes no sense to start changing things before you've even driven the car and don't know what it feels like. (maybe you're just here doing research as a "what-if" scenario, but it sure seems like you're already pretty much decided what your upgrade plan is) Go do an autocross or two at minimum before you start buying parts, let me know if you don't struggle with understeer and traction coming out of corners - a FSB will make both of those things worse.
To Premacy5- a gross oversimplification of how sway bars work is that the end of the car you put the bigger sway bar on has its grip reduced. It really has to do with how the torsion spring screws with how your car is allowed to shift weight from corner to corner during body roll, but you can simplify to "bigger rear bar = less rear grip = more front grip = more turning." The same applies to a larger front bar: "bigger front bar = less front grip = less turning (understeer)." Almost all cars are set to understeer from the factory to make them easier for Joe Blow to control in the event of a skid; natural slow down or smash the brakes reactions work with an understeering FWD car. As far as the effects of a front bar, I could demonstrate it to you in my S2000 with its adjustable front bar- go stiffer in the front and the car turns less. That applies to pretty much every car out there, including the 5. If I went 50% stiffer on my front bar I'd probably want to increase rear roll stiffness by 100% or more- but that causes its own issues... stiffer is not necessarily better. If you swapped in a Mazdaspeed3 front bar, you'd likely want to get the largest rear bar available on the market to balance it out- and then you probably wouldn't be able to stuff enough tire or spring rate into it to really take advantage of your super high roll stiffness.
 
Well, I bought a junkyard MS3 Rear sway bar w/bushings and end links for $50! I bought the Moog bushing/bracket kit 90401, but the bracket holes did not match the chassis holes. I had to use the included used bushing/brackets because the Moog bushings were wider than the factory brackets.

I did NOT have to drop that plate, even with the end links already attached. Of course, having it on a lift helped with that...I just passed it through and out. Same with putting the new one in. The base auto hobby shop is one great benefit from military retirement. Only $6 an hour.

I have not had the opportunity to give a 'good' try, but I like it so far. There were too many slow people in my way on the way home. I'm fighting a sore throat/cold and didn't go out last night.
 
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