Guide ATF Drain/Fill

I didn't aware you need the engine running while taking the ATF measurement as nobody had mentioned it. A while ago someone had posted the coolant temperature readout when the blue coolant indicator turns off. I can't remember the exact number but I believe it's higher than 122F. If you don't mind may be you can find out for us with your new OBDII tools. :)

Its a general rule. You generally check the transmission oil on a flat surface while the engine is running. For automatics at least. So after pouring the new transmission oil I drive the car through various gears and reverse. Then back to neutral to do another level check while still running.

The minimum 122F is because you want the engine at operating temps (hot) like 150-170F. Mazda wants to ensure to engine is at least warm hence 122F. I'm confident the blue coolant light could be used. Will have to test it with the OBD2 scanner to verify.
 
Its a general rule. You generally check the transmission oil on a flat surface while the engine is running. For automatics at least. So after pouring the new transmission oil I drive the car through various gears and reverse. Then back to neutral to do another level check while still running.

The minimum 122F is because you want the engine at operating temps (hot) like 150-170F. Mazda wants to ensure to engine is at least warm hence 122F. I'm confident the blue coolant light could be used. Will have to test it with the OBD2 scanner to verify.
According to my scangauge the blue light went off at 132.
 
I checked mine, it goes off at 55C, which is 131F.
 
for those interested, it is possible to get to transmission dipstick plug and bolt from underneath, just need to remove the plastic panel from underneath and feel for the bolt to remove the dipstick then refill from the top with a long flexible tube and funnel,

just offering another option for those who don't want to deal with removing the air intake..... this way it's a lot easier to get a temp reading without the hassle of removing and putting back the air intake / unplug/plug MAF sensor. I believe one member forgot to replug those in and got a dash code light, not a biggie but don't want to be dealing with codes and drive cycles .....

still early for me to do an ATF change but I'll post pics when I do it....

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for those interested, it is possible to get to transmission dipstick plug and bolt from underneath, just need to remove the plastic panel from underneath and feel for the bolt to remove the dipstick then refill from the top with a long flexible tube and funnel,

just offering another option for those who don't want to deal with removing the air intake..... this way it's a lot easier to get a temp reading without the hassle of removing and putting back the air intake / unplug/plug MAF sensor. I believe one member forgot to replug those in and got a dash code light, not a biggie but don't want to be dealing with codes and drive cycles .....

still early for me to do an ATF change but I'll post pics when I do it....

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This is a viable option when changing the tranny fluid but with a word of caution to use gloves and safety glasses/goggles. I found the tranny fluid to be very thin and it easily dripped/flung unpredictably.

The removal of the air box does present a positive though. I found my air box very dusty inside. I wiped the inside of the box and hose system down with a damp towel (but not the MAF). Do not touch the MAF. I meant to use a can of air on it but I forgot to.

This project (tranny fluid change) could be done in conjunction of an oil change project and throttle body cleaning project. Not to mention inspecting/changing the engine air box filter.
 
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Finally did one of my CX5s. I was able to drain out 4 qts exactly. Replaced with same amount.

One thing that worried me a little was some residue accumulated around the dipstick hole. Once the dipstick was removed this could easily fall into the opening. I was able to clean it off with a damp rag. This was my CX5 @ 42K miles.

Next, will do my 2nd one with 46K miles (wifey's one)
 
Finally did one of my CX5s. I was able to drain out 4 qts exactly. Replaced with same amount.

One thing that worried me a little was some residue accumulated around the dipstick hole. Once the dipstick was removed this could easily fall into the opening. I was able to clean it off with a damp rag. This was my CX5 @ 42K miles.

Next, will do my 2nd one with 46K miles (wifey's one)

Just curious, did you check the level on the dipstick? If not, and the OEM fill was low, then you're still low.
 
Finally did one of my CX5s. I was able to drain out 4 qts exactly. Replaced with same amount.

One thing that worried me a little was some residue accumulated around the dipstick hole. Once the dipstick was removed this could easily fall into the opening. I was able to clean it off with a damp rag. This was my CX5 @ 42K miles.

Next, will do my 2nd one with 46K miles (wifey's one)

Probably dirt or engine grime. This is why I'd prefer to remove the stock intake out the way and clean up the surrounding area to prevent stuff from falling in the fill hole.

Report back in about a week after your ATF change if you noticed the tranny feels a bit slicker.
 
^ I had checked the ATF level - OEM low, but I kept this at low. I was surprised that I got out 4qts. I was expecting ~3.5 but not 4. I have only 4qts left for the other CX5 of mine.

Placebo? I don't know, but shifts seem MUCH better now. It was not bad, but now it seems like a improvement.
 
^ I had checked the ATF level - OEM low, but I kept this at low. I was surprised that I got out 4qts. I was expecting ~3.5 but not 4. I have only 4qts left for the other CX5 of mine.

Placebo? I don't know, but shifts seem MUCH better now. It was not bad, but now it seems like a improvement.

Yeah same here. When my 4-quart container quickly filled past 3.5 quarts I was concerned it was going to spill over. That last .5 quarts came out slower.

I believe you're supposed to check the ATF level right after the blue light goes off and while the engine still running.

All I know is our automatic at nearing 70k miles is really smooth. Next change will probably be at 110k miles.
 
Finally did one of my CX5s. I was able to drain out 4 qts exactly. Replaced with same amount.

One thing that worried me a little was some residue accumulated around the dipstick hole. Once the dipstick was removed this could easily fall into the opening. I was able to clean it off with a damp rag. This was my CX5 @ 42K miles.

Next, will do my 2nd one with 46K miles (wifey's one)
Did you go from top or bottom of removing the ATF dipstick?

It seems most factory-filled fluids in CX-5 are low. Engine oil、engine coolant、rear differential、now the transmission fluid? (boom02)
 
^from top. I did remove the air filter assembly and changed the filter too.

I really wanted to have enough room and easy access to the fill hole. It was maybe extra 3 minutes of work.
 
just FYI, I was able to check the transmission dipstick WITHOUT having to disassemble the air intake........

I can understand why some may want to, it makes it easier, but just giving another option that it's not necessary......


first need to drop the plastic panels, for the CX-5 you DO NOT NEED to lift up the front of the car,

there is more than enough clearance.





these are the type of screws to remove, some philips, some 10mm, and some 8mm panel fasteners...




here is picture from underneath, you can easily access the dipstick and dipstick bolt:


it is reachable from underneath:








there's plenty of room to get a stubby ratchet with 10mm socket





the bolt holding down the dipstick is 10mm size:


this picture shows the dipstick can easily be removed from underneath without having to disassemble the air intake


dipstick reading, hard to tell but looks ok to me, not low not high, just in the middle.... fluid is super clean though, I have 16,000 odometer miles


as others have mentioned, Mazda design allows dirt to accumulate as shown:


dirt can get under the dipstick, I cleaned it carefully making sure dirt doesn't go down the hole:
I ripped a small piece of my detailing clay bar and used clay slowly over the dirt and the clay grabbed most of the debris,
then like Gova used a damp cleaning wipe to clean the remaining residue, worked quite well, obviously, I threw out the clay,
no way I was going to use it again for detailing, the encased debris will cause scratches.



make sure to clean off dirt on O-ring before putting it back in:



tools used:

safety glasses, stubby ratchet with 10mm socket

gloves, one of my mechanic friends gave me this tip, use old golf or batting gloves, a lot more dexterity, works great!!


panel fastener tool remover:


my trusty Worx for the underpanel 10mm scrwes, my wife thinks it looks like a gun :)


probably do drain and fill at around 35,000 miles, will do as above and measure what drains out and get a long flexible tube funnel and pour back thru the dipstick hole the same amount. I like the fact that car can be done level on the ground, and no need to remove air intake assembly; just need to remove the plastic paneling which needs to be done anyway to get to the transmission drain plug, and most of all can do it myself without going to dealer, I'm sure those monkeys would get tons of dirt into the fill hole.

also just an FYI, if you plan to drain and fill, I recommend changing the aluminum washer, thanks to yrwei52, here's the part number, Mazda 99564-1400 (same washer for the engine oil plug)



 
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I would have already done this but with current weep/leak which might be AT fluid it would be a huge waste of my AT fluid supplies if dealer ends up re-filling for that fix.
 
I would have already done this but with current weep/leak which might be AT fluid it would be a huge waste of my AT fluid supplies if dealer ends up re-filling for that fix.

maybe just check the ATF dipstick per Tomcat's write up to make sure you're not low ? seems like a quick and easy check..... just a suggestion
 
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