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Thread: ATF Drain/Fill

  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by gova View Post
    re: tomcat1446

    I've been in possession of OBDII bluetooth reader for years. The issue is that torque(pro), dash command and others seem not to report ATF temp.

    Don't care about coolant really. Somebody give us ATF temp reading.
    Oh crap, sorry, You are right Gova, I'm an idiot, must had a brainfart, I mistook the antifreeze coolant reading as ATF temp reading. Sorry for the confusion, you are right, I don't see any options on the torque lite either for ATF temp. I'll have to do more research.

  2. #62
    Registered Member CX-5um's Avatar

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    I did an ATF change and Oil Change at the same time. Here are my findings, tips, and experience. FYI, my car already has a fumoto valve installed.

    Items used:

    Lifted via: Sceptor ProRamps Model# 08226, HF jackstands as backup, wheel chokes.

    Fluids, filters, other: 5-quart bottle Pennzoil Platinum 0w20, 4 quarts Mazda FZ transmission fluid (blue). WIX 57002 for Skyactiv engines, Pennzoil oil wrench, ziplock bag, 9-quart oil container, Dollar store 4-quart clear container with markers an 4-inch wide cooking funnel, rubber gloves, rags, ATF drain plug washer (same part# as engine oil drain plug washer).

    Tools: Tekton torque wrench, regular craftsman ratchet, 10mm socket, 8mm hex socket, 3/8 to 1/2 inch adapter, 3/8 extention, flat head screwdriver, OBD2 Bluetooth scanner, flashlight.

    Est. time of prep setup, fluid exchange process, old oil drop off to local auto-store, diagnostics, and testing, and cleanup: 2.5 hours.

    Important FYI's:

    ATF fluid exchange (1 session ) was originally done by dealership at aprox 37k. This car has 65K at time of this session.

    ATF fluid measured high at dipstick before I started this ATF exchange session. It was basically well past the "high" line. Likely explanation: Back at 37k miles, the dealership removed aprox 3.7 quarts (or less), was busy with other cars, just poured 4 quarts (4 bottles) and called it a day.

    Amount of ATF "I removed": 4 quarts measured. Likely explanation: I used ramps. I noticed that both the engine oil pan and the transmission oil pans had plugs designed with a bias for being angled back. Ramp raised the front 8.27 inches.

    I poured 4 quarts of new ATF and the dipstick measurements were consistent prior to my ATF exchange session. A bit high. Glad I torqued drain plug at 25lbs. I removed a tad bit of fluid from the drain plug. Re torqued drain plug at 29lbs. I remeasured at 147F while engine is running and the dipstick fluid measurement is now in spec. Just at the "high line" going up to 154F. In spec at 122F.

    ATF Drain plug washer torque spec: 22-30lbs.

    My Transmission temp read were different from my coolant temps. At first yes they were identical. After some time the coolant would be at 147F while the transmission would ready something like 154F. My OBD2 Bluetooth scanner was used in conjunction with Torque paid app.

    WIX 57002's filter may use the same oil filter wrench as OEM made in Japan 302 filter. Build quality looks legit. A viable alternative.

    I really think that a fluid pump could be used for the ATF exchange process. I'll let someone else try it and report findings.

    I would like to sometime create an entry point/door for the ATF plug. It saves a good 20 minutes not removing and installing the splash shield.

    A total of 8 quarts of new ATF flud has been poured in so far throughout this car's life. I really think that a partial 4 quart exchange every 30k miles is good enough. 8 quarts is ideal. Anything more is gravy. So by aprox 100k this car would've had 12 quarts of new ATF oil poured in going by this 4 quart schedule. Well if we still own this car by then.

    This car always had a smooth operating transmission. I noticed some slickness added after a test drive, manual mode, reversing, ect.

    Now looking forward to getting the old dirty and low measured brake fluid flushed later this month.
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    Last edited by CX-5um; 03-06-2017 at 10:19 AM.

  3. #63
    Registered Member yrwei52's Avatar
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    Arrow ATF Drain/Fill

    Quote Originally Posted by Conrad 16.5 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by blackcx5 View Post
    ⋯ What about the so called ATF flush stealership offers? The one that needs a special machine that monitors the fluid quality as it flushes the system.
    My understanding is that the CX-5 does not have any external ATF lines and without external lines there's no way to hook up the 'special machine'.
    That's correct. Mazda engineers have different ways of thinking to design their components. I can name many of them doing different way than general convention. Our SkyActiv-Drive automatic transmission has a built-in water cooler inside to cool down the ATF. It has an inlet and an outlet for engine coolant. It doesn't have conventional ATF cooler inside of radiator hence an ATF lines out and into the transmission. Hence an ATF flushing machine can't do anything to our SA transmission as there's no ATF lines to hook up like Conrad 16.5 said.

  4. #64
    Registered Member yrwei52's Avatar
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    Arrow ATF Drain/Fill

    Quote Originally Posted by CX-5um View Post
    I did an ATF change and Oil Change at the same time. Here are my findings, tips, and experience.
    Appreciate your write-up. Can you tell us how did you access the dipstick? Did you remove the air intake plenum and air filter cover? Do you think accessing ATF dipstick from underneath the car is easier like the guy at BobIsTheOilGuy said?

  5. #65
    Registered Member Conrad 16.5's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by CX-5um View Post
    I did an ATF change and Oil Change at the same time. Here are my findings, tips, and experience. FYI, my car already has a fumoto valve installed.

    Items used:

    Lifted via: Sceptor ProRamps Model# 08226, HF jackstands as backup, wheel chokes.

    Fluids, filters, other: 5-quart bottle Pennzoil Platinum 0w20, 4 quarts Mazda FZ transmission fluid (blue). WIX 57002 for Skyactiv engines, Pennzoil oil wrench, ziplock bag, 9-quart oil container, Dollar store 4-quart clear container with markers an 4-inch wide cooking funnel, rubber gloves, rags, ATF drain plug washer (same part# as engine oil drain plug washer).

    Tools: Tekton torque wrench, regular craftsman ratchet, 10mm socket, 8mm hex socket, 3/8 to 1/2 inch adapter, 3/8 extention, flat head screwdriver, OBD2 Bluetooth scanner, flashlight.

    Est. time of prep setup, fluid exchange process, old oil drop off to local auto-store, diagnostics, and testing, and cleanup: 2.5 hours.

    Important FYI's:

    ATF fluid exchange (1 session ) was originally done by dealership at aprox 37k. This car has 65K at time of this session.

    ATF fluid measured high at dipstick before I started this ATF exchange session. It was basically well past the "high" line. Likely explanation: Back at 37k miles, the dealership removed aprox 3.7 quarts (or less), was busy with other cars, just poured 4 quarts (4 bottles) and called it a day.

    Amount of ATF "I removed": 4 quarts measured. Likely explanation: I used ramps. I noticed that both the engine oil pan and the transmission oil pans had plugs designed with a bias for being angled back. Ramp raised the front 8.27 inches.

    I poured 4 quarts of new ATF and the dipstick measurements were consistent prior to my ATF exchange session. A bit high. Glad I torqued drain plug at 25lbs. I removed a tad bit of fluid from the drain plug. Re torqued drain plug at 29lbs. I remeasured at 147F while engine is running and the dipstick fluid measurement is now in spec. Just at the "high line" going up to 154F. In spec at 122F.

    ATF Drain plug washer torque spec: 22-30lbs.

    My Transmission temp read were different from my coolant temps. At first yes they were identical. After some time the coolant would be at 147F while the transmission would ready something like 154F. My OBD2 Bluetooth scanner was used in conjunction with Torque paid app.

    WIX 57002's filter may use the same oil filter wrench as OEM made in Japan 302 filter. Build quality looks legit. A viable alternative.

    I really think that a fluid pump could be used for the ATF exchange process. I'll let someone else try it and report findings.

    I would like to sometime create an entry point/door for the ATF plug. It saves a good 20 minutes not removing and installing the splash shield.

    A total of 8 quarts of new ATF flud has been poured in so far throughout this car's life. I really think that a partial 4 quart exchange every 30k miles is good enough. 8 quarts is ideal. Anything more is gravy. So by aprox 100k this car would've had 12 quarts of new ATF oil poured in going by this 4 quart schedule. Well if we still own this car by then.

    This car always had a smooth operating transmission. I noticed some slickness added after a test drive, manual mode, reversing, ect.

    Now looking forward to getting the old dirty and low measured brake fluid flushed later this month.
    Nice write up, thanks for taking the time and doing this.

    So your odb reader and Torque Pro app can read the trans fluid and coolant temps separately?
    "Don't bother me with facts, Son. I've already made up my mind." -Foghorn Leghorn

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by yrwei52 View Post
    Appreciate your write-up. Can you tell us how did you access the dipstick? Did you remove the air intake plenum and air filter cover? Do you think accessing ATF dipstick from underneath the car is easier like the guy at BobIsTheOilGuy said?
    I added pics to my original post.

    I accessed the dip stick by removing the entire stock airbox for clearance to access the dipstick BUT be sure to reattach the MAF and air filter cover. I say this because when starting the car no airflow sensed kept stalling my engine. Reattaching the MAF and top air filter cover allowed my car not to stall thus I could conduct OBDII analysis. The air filter and all other stock intake parts should be removed.

    Its difficult for me to recommend accessing the ATF dipstick from underneath the car like the guy at BobIsTheOilGuy advised. The reason so is because that guy was a Mazda tech I believe working in a shop with the car on a lift. He's familiar with the engine. For us DIYs we're on the ground on our backs looking at the bottom of the transmission for the 1st time. I guess I wasn't comfortable reaching the dipstick from underneath. The ATF fluid itself is super thin and every time I removed the dip stick from above I would splatter drops of hot oil here and there. Now that's from above with zero clearance issues. So yes I see how it could be done but I'll pass.


    Quote Originally Posted by Conrad 16.5 View Post
    Nice write up, thanks for taking the time and doing this.

    So your odb reader and Torque Pro app can read the trans fluid and coolant temps separately?
    Yes mine read them separately. They were identical temps at first but the transmission oil got hotter later on by a few degrees. Sorry I did not know how to make a screenshot out of this.
    Last edited by CX-5um; 03-06-2017 at 10:20 AM.

  7. #67
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    Arrow ATF Drain/Fill

    Quote Originally Posted by CX-5um View Post
    ⋯ Sorry I did not know how to make a screenshot out of this.
    Don't know how to on the Android but Chris_Top_Her did it. Thanks for adding some photos!

    SomeToolsUsed.PNG

    saftey1st.PNG

    Dual oil change.PNG

    4InchFunnel.PNG

    4quarts.PNG

  8. #68
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    Arrow ATF Drain/Fill

    Quote Originally Posted by CX-5um View Post
    ⋯ ATF fluid exchange (1 session ) was originally done by dealership at aprox 37k. This car has 65K at time of this session.

    ATF fluid measured high at dipstick before I started this ATF exchange session. It was basically well past the "high" line. Likely explanation: Back at 37k miles, the dealership removed aprox 3.7 quarts (or less), was busy with other cars, just poured 4 quarts (4 bottles) and called it a day.

    Amount of ATF "I removed": 4 quarts measured. Likely explanation: I used ramps. I noticed that both the engine oil pan and the transmission oil pans had plugs designed with a bias for being angled back. Ramp raised the front 8.27 inches.

    I poured 4 quarts of new ATF and the dipstick measurements were consistent prior to my ATF exchange session. A bit high. Glad I torqued drain plug at 25lbs. I removed a tad bit of fluid from the drain plug. Re torqued drain plug at 29lbs. I remeasured at 147F while engine is running and the dipstick fluid measurement is now in spec. Just at the "high line" going up to 154F. In spec at 122F.
    This's the reason why we should never measure what we take out and replace the same exact amount of ATF. Your dealer over-filled ATF in the first ATF drain-and-fill. That's why your ATF measured well over the "Full" mark on dipstick before your ATF drain-and-fill! It has nothing to do with your CX-5 not been leveled.
    Last edited by yrwei52; 03-10-2017 at 10:17 AM.

  9. #69
    Registered Member CX-5um's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by yrwei52 View Post
    This's the reason why we should never measure what we take out and replace the same exact amount of ATF. You dealer over-filled ATF in your first ATF drain-and-fill. That's why your ATF measured well over the "Full" mark on dipstick before your ATF drain-and-fill! It has nothing to do with your CX-5 not been leveled.
    FYI, all my measurements taken were on flat surface with transmission oil above 122F and engine running.

    Next time I will measure both at the dipstick and the amount drained. Some scenarios:

    Dip stick is in spec / 3.7 measured drained = Fill 3.7, confirm if dip stick is still in spec.
    Dip stick is low spec / 3.7 measured drained = Fill 3.7, top off until dip stick is in spec.
    Dip stick is past high spec / 3.7 measured drained = Fill 3.0, top off until dip stick is in spec.
    Dip stick is below low spec / 3.7 measured drained = Fill 3.7, top off until dip stick is in spec.

    (I should've done the 3rd method for my scenario)
    Last edited by CX-5um; 03-07-2017 at 10:00 AM.

  10. #70
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    Arrow ATF Drain/Fill

    Quote Originally Posted by CX-5um View Post
    FYI, all my measurements taken were on flat surface with transmission oil above 122F and engine running.

    Next time I will measure both at the dipstick and the amount drained. Some scenarios:

    Dip stick is in spec / 3.7 measured drained = Fill 3.7, confirm if dip stick is still in spec.
    Dip stick is low spec / 3.7 measured drained = Fill 3.7, top off until dip stick is in spec.
    Dip stick is past high spec / 3.7 measured drained = Fill 3.0, top off until dip stick is in spec.
    Dip stick is below low spec / 3.7 measured drained = Fill 3.7, top off until dip stick is in spec.

    (I should've done the 3rd method for my scenario)
    Measure ATF with engine running?

    I believe once you drained ATF completely, pouring in 3.7 quarts first then doing the adjustment should be a safe bet.

  11. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by yrwei52 View Post
    Don't know how to on the Android but Chris_Top_Her did it. Thanks for adding some photos!


    saftey1st.PNG
    I agree that safety should always come first but using jack stands with ramps is unnecessary. Of course it doesn't hurt anything either.
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  12. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by yrwei52 View Post
    Measure ATF with engine running?

    I believe once you drained ATF completely, pouring in 3.7 quarts first then doing the adjustment should be a safe bet.
    Yes I agree. That's a good plan..

    Quote Originally Posted by Conrad 16.5 View Post
    I agree that safety should always come first but using jack stands with ramps is unnecessary. Of course it doesn't hurt anything either.
    My wife's co-worker recently died. Last time she saw him he was heading home from work to work on his car. I don't know the specifics. His car collapsed on him that night. His kid discovered him. Had a wife and 2 little kids. Sad story really and totally avoidable. Working on cars, always safety first. The best we can do is 1. spread the word. 2 practice what we preach on car safety. Who knows, maybe someone may just listen.

    These ramps are exceptionally tougher than Rhino ramps you see at Oreilly's or Pep Boys (local auto stores here in the states). The design is very stout. Made in Canada by Sceptor. I use wheel chokes for the rear wheels. I purchased the jack stands as more of a visual reassurance for my wife really. But also as a backup. Adds a few steps to the process but you can't be too safe. http://www.scepterconsumer.com/auto_...ies/autoramps/

  13. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by CX-5um View Post
    Yes I agree. That's a good plan..



    My wife's co-worker recently died. Last time she saw him he was heading home from work to work on his car. I don't know the specifics. His car collapsed on him that night. His kid discovered him. Had a wife and 2 little kids. Sad story really and totally avoidable. Working on cars, always safety first. The best we can do is 1. spread the word. 2 practice what we preach on car safety. Who knows, maybe someone may just listen.

    These ramps are exceptionally tougher than Rhino ramps you see at Oreilly's or Pep Boys (local auto stores here in the states). The design is very stout. Made in Canada by Sceptor. I use wheel chokes for the rear wheels. I purchased the jack stands as more of a visual reassurance for my wife really. But also as a backup. Adds a few steps to the process but you can't be too safe. http://www.scepterconsumer.com/auto_...ies/autoramps/
    oh man, that's rough, agreed safety always first, I think your ramp/jack stand set up is good, I kind of like Avidien's set-up, 4 inch solid concrete blocks with quality chokes on rear wheels........ I'd probably get 3 blocks for each wheel just so the wheel rests on one solid block in the middle rather than resting between the gap of two blocks though.

    https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...r-oil-(photos)

    also don't trust jackstands by themselves, always have backup, they do fail sometimes

    Last edited by blackcx5; 03-07-2017 at 03:48 PM.

  14. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackcx5 View Post
    oh man, that's rough, agreed safety always first, I think your ramp/jack stand set up is good, I kind of like Avidien's set-up, 4 inch solid concrete blocks with quality chokes on rear wheels........ I'd probably get 3 blocks for each wheel just so the wheel rests on one solid block in the middle rather than resting between the gap of two blocks though.

    https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...r-oil-(photos)

    also don't trust jackstands by themselves, always have backup, they do fail sometimes
    I'm kind of weary of using cinder blocks or concrete blocks. I guess the heavier the better. Though you never know when they'll break. I wonder if you can buy something like thick solid rubber mats or solid metal blocks- nah that would be heavy and aluminum blocks are expensive. I think investing in good quality ramps like the ones I've got or expensive race ramps (a bit out of my price range )are good investments if used a couple times a year and will last a very long time.

  15. #75
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    What is the difference in ATF volume between low limit and high limit on the dip stick?

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