Guide ATF Drain/Fill

I thought the ATF temp was available only via something like Scanguage since that parameter is proprietary on Mazda system? Coolant temp shows up on anything I have thrown at it but haven't seen ATF. Willing to try Torque Pro if it indeed shows ATF temp.
 
I'd consider dropping the pan if there was just a gasket used. I'd want to give car a good 24 hours just to be sure liquid gasket seal was good. It will just be drain & refill for me.
I only tempted to remove the pan after watching the video and saw metal shavings on the pan. But my conscience told me not to do it with the same reason like yours. :)
 
I'm not seeing 'chunks' of metal in that video. I'm seeing what I suspect is normal clutchpack wear, assuming the linings have metal in them, like some brake pads do.

Note, that's all conjecture on my part, but the fineness of the deposit resembles what I saw when spraying moly lube on something...
 
Has anyone used a vacuum pump to extract the tran fluid out of the fluid dipstick check hole. Most I/O boats come equipped with a screw on option on the dipstick to extract the engine oil as space may be tight under the engine so I have a vacuum pump that has a clear measured container for my boat and I think it will work without taking the bottom cover or plug out...
 
Has anyone used a vacuum pump to extract the tran fluid out of the fluid dipstick check hole. Most I/O boats come equipped with a screw on option on the dipstick to extract the engine oil as space may be tight under the engine so I have a vacuum pump that has a clear measured container for my boat and I think it will work without taking the bottom cover or plug out...

Don't see why not. Just not sure how far down you could go though. If you could only extract like 2 quarts then I'd pass and go with the gravity drain.

Always had good results on my Mityvac evacuator on BMW engines. Then again BMWs and Mercedes were designed for pumps. My brother was a Mercedes tech and thats how they do their oil changes at dealerships.
 
The dipstick is on the front so I figure jacking the rear higher might get most of it out...
 
After 36000 miles I decided to drain and fill my ATF. According to the manual, 3.5-5 qt will drain out. I drained a little over 3.5 qt.
Oil - Up to 5qt of Mazda ATF FZ (It's blue then it comes out). I believe I paid about 14.50 at the dealer
Preferably a lift. I rented a 4 arm lift for a total of $14 including use of some tool i needed to borrow and an impact gun to install a part I bought.
Tools needed: 10mm socket, Flathead screwdriver, Phillips screwdriver, a general purpose pail with a measurement scale inside, a long funnel and a new washer (I got it free at the dealership) I believe the size of the drain plug was 8mm, you will need an 8mm allen wrench.

Before you even drain your atf I would get a reading after you've driven it so you know your current level is for a visual dipstick reference later.

1. Remove the dip stick from the reservoir. It's at the bottom front of the engine bay, pictured here. It is held in place by a 10mm bolt (already removed in the picture)


is it really necessary to remove the air intake plenum and air filter cover as shown in this video #3 in the link below to get access to the ATF dipstick ?

[video]https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2013_Mazda_CX-5_Sport_2.0L_4_Cyl./transmission_fluid/check_fluid_level[/video]
 
is it really necessary to remove the air intake plenum and air filter cover as shown in this video #3 in the link below to get access to the ATF dipstick ?

[video]https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2013_Mazda_CX-5_Sport_2.0L_4_Cyl./transmission_fluid/check_fluid_level[/video]

not sure if this will help , but in this video it looks like air intake and air filter is still installed (7:37 video mark)..... so looks like there is room,

hopefully someone who has done it can confirm.... I plan to do it soon too, not going to get ripped off by the dealer, seems so easy...

 
is it really necessary to remove the air intake plenum and air filter cover as shown in this video #3 in the link below to get access to the ATF dipstick ?
I'd try this first:

- To fill the transmission, some folks suggest removing the air intake tube to allow for more room to insert a funnel - but this is not necessary. There is a radiator hose that is adjacent to the air intake; the radiator hose is secured by a bracket. Remove the bracket (1 bolt) and this will allow you to move the hose around. By doing so, this step will give you barely enough room to squeeze a long funnel (18") into the space. I actually inserted a second funnel into the long funnel to allow for easier pouring.

- Check the fluid from underneath the car - this is the easiest way to access the dipstick. Do not try to remove the dipstick from the engine compartment.

ATF Change - Remarks from BobIsTheOilGuy site - please read.
 
is it really necessary to remove the air intake plenum and air filter cover as shown in this video #3 in the link below to get access to the ATF dipstick ?

Getting ready to change mine so I went ahead and removed it. It is very easy and quick. 2 bolts, 1 clamp and MAF plug. It does add about 2 minutes to your total time, but saves much more me thinks.

It opens up so much space above and around ATF dispstick. Would not just jam my hands in there with all that stuff in place.
 
Getting ready to change mine so I went ahead and removed it. It is very easy and quick. 2 bolts, 1 clamp and MAF plug. It does add about 2 minutes to your total time, but saves much more me thinks.

It opens up so much space above and around ATF dispstick. Would not just jam my hands in there with all that stuff in place.
Good to know! Thanks for the info and I'll do the same since it's easy to remove the air intake plenum and air filter cover for easier access. However, how are you going to warm up the transmission to measure the ATF?
 
Good to know! Thanks for the info and I'll do the same since it's easy to remove the air intake plenum and air filter cover for easier access. However, how are you going to warm up the transmission to measure the ATF?

Yes, I thought about it as well. I think some idle and once around a block will be fine. I did start the engine to measure my current ATF levels with MAF unplugged. Had to clear a few codes afterwards.

BTW, my AFT levels are on low limit.
 
bluetooth $11.99 OBDII scanner with on off swiitch to measure ATF temp

hi guys,

no need to spend so much money on a scanner to measure coolant temp, this will work just fine on the CX-5

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)




I haven't changed my ATF yet but I do plan to at around 25K, for those who also plan to change ATF, you'll need to measure the coolant temp, so this may help you.

Also, I read somewhere it might be possible to get to the to 10mm bolt holding down the dipstick from underneath instead of taking out the air intake or MAF sensor, last thing I want is to trip any DTC emissions codes and fail an inspection. I will try and let you guys know if it's possible to unscrew the bolt from underneath, I'll probably get my brother to be a spotter and tell me if I'm close and he'll help me guide the wrench and also the funnel hose to guide it into the ATF fill hole after removing the dipstick.

This is the Hikeren installed in the CX-5, I added a clear rubber bumper (you can get at any hardware store or even the local RiteAid/CVS) for a no look on / off operation, all these type of bluetooth scanners continue to draw battery current even after engine is off so it is good to have an off on switch. the CX-5 OBDII white plug is just above the driver's left knee, you just plug the Hikeren into that and make sure the red LED is lit



You will need to download a free app called TORQUE LITE (APP), these are examples of what it can read



There's also a HUD mode, so you can monitor what ever you want while you drive, in this case, it's the ATF coolant , you place your smartphone up against windshield and reflection will show as HUD, it works better at night when it is dark




and finally, these are my 2016.5 CX-5 readings, I have never drained my ATF before and my car a relatively new 12,000 odometer miles, coolant reads as 69C after driving for 20 minutes and all my DTC emissions are good to go for inspection

 
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Thx Tomcat!!! Great work.

I have a stupid newbie question, what is the purpose of measuring the coolant temp anyway during ATF change, isn't measuring what you take out and replacing the same exact amount good enough? I bet that's what dealers do anyway and that's for a one time drain and fill. They'll charge you the same high price again if you want to do it again after say 20 miles if you really want to get all the bad ATF out.
 
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Thx Tomcat!!! Great work.

I have a stupid newbie question, what is the purpose of measuring the coolant temp anyway during ATF change, isn't measuring what you take out and replacing the same exact amount good enough? I bet that's what dealers do anyway and that's for a one time drain and fill. They'll charge you the same high price again if you want to do it again after say 20 miles if you really want to get all the bad ATF out.
Yeah tomcat1446 is a true contributor to this fourm and his posts have always been helpful and very detailed with pictures. I really enjoy reading his posts!

ATF is sensitive to temperature and it'll expand its volume greatly when temperature rises. In theory we can measure what you take out and replace the same exact amount of ATF. The problem for me is it's a little difficult to measure exact amount as you need to make sure the fresh ATF measured same temperature as the drained-out fluid, and some fluid will always be left on the oil pan you used to collect drained-out ATF. Secondly for the first ATF drain-and-fill I don't trust the amount of factory fill is always correct as Mazda seems to low-balling all fluid levels from factory such as engine oil、engine coolant、and rear differential. So check ATF level at proper temperature with dipstick described by service manual.

BTW, you can only get about 70% of old ATF out if you do drain-and-fill twice. Total ATF capacity for our SkyAciv-Drive transmission is 8.24 US quarts. But each drain-and-fill can only replace about 3.75 US quarts out of 8.24 US quarts.
 
BTW, you can only get about 70% of old ATF out if you do drain-and-fill twice. Total ATF capacity for our SkyAciv-Drive transmission is 8.24 US quarts. But each drain-and-fill can only replace about 3.75 US quarts out of 8.24 US quarts.

This is good info, thanks yrwei52, so basically if going to dealer and paying them whatever they charge for a basic drain and fill for ATF is only replacing the old fluid by 35% volume (I think they charge like $125 to $150 maybe someone who has done it can confirm).

So in theory have to go back to them 3 times for a full clean ATF? They will think I'm some kind of nut or OCD patient LOL

3 times drain and fill wil run like $400+ at the dealer. Much more economical to do it myself. And for those who think ATF is lifetime oil believe me, it is not, from my past transmission failures from other cars and manufactured. Mazda idea of lifetime is 60,000 miles, after that it's your problem.

What about the so called ATF flush stealership offers? The one that needs a special machine that monitors the fluid quality as it flushes the system.
 
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This is good info, thanks yrwei52, so basically if going to dealer and paying them whatever they charge for a basic drain and fill for ATF is only replacing the old fluid by 35% volume (I think they charge like $125 to $150 maybe someone who has done it can confirm).

So in theory have to go back to them 3 times for a full clean ATF? They will think I'm some kind of nut or OCD patient LOL

3 times drain and fill wil run like $400+ at the dealer. Much more economical to do it myself. And for those who think ATF is lifetime oil believe me, it is not, from my past transmission failures from other cars and manufactured. Mazda idea of lifetime is 60,000 miles, after that it's your problem.

What about the so called ATF flush stealership offers? The one that needs a special machine that monitors the fluid quality as it flushes the system.

And that would only dilute the original oil 3 times.
 
This is good info, thanks yrwei52, so basically if going to dealer and paying them whatever they charge for a basic drain and fill for ATF is only replacing the old fluid by 35% volume (I think they charge like $125 to $150 maybe someone who has done it can confirm).

So in theory have to go back to them 3 times for a full clean ATF? They will think I'm some kind of nut or OCD patient LOL

3 times drain and fill wil run like $400+ at the dealer. Much more economical to do it myself. And for those who think ATF is lifetime oil believe me, it is not, from my past transmission failures from other cars and manufactured. Mazda idea of lifetime is 60,000 miles, after that it's your problem.

What about the so called ATF flush stealership offers? The one that needs a special machine that monitors the fluid quality as it flushes the system.

My understanding is that the CX-5 does not have any external ATF lines and without external lines there's no way to hook up the 'special machine'.


Anchorman hit the nail on the head. No matter how many times you drain and fill, you're only diluting the original fluid. It will never be 100% clean fluid.

That said, I will be draining and refilling mine around 30k miles or so.
 
re: tomcat1446

I've been in possession of OBDII bluetooth reader for years. The issue is that torque(pro), dash command and others seem not to report ATF temp.

Don't care about coolant really. Somebody give us ATF temp reading.
 

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