Guide ATF Drain/Fill

...Seriously, I could count on my fingers all the CX-5 transmission failures we've heard about and they all failed early due to a manufacturing defect. The engine/transmission is one of the best things about the CX-5 whether you're talking 2.0L g or 2.5L g.

I'm not doubting it when I ask what leads you to draw that conclusion. I just got my CX-5 and am truly impressed with the engine and AT performance thus far... would also love to think they're going to be, as they say, 'bullet-proof' durable. I just want to know if there's been an appreciable number of high-mileage (say, 200 KMile +) owners with glowing reports of low/no repairs.
 
i was thinking of using a pump to pull fluid out of the fill hole anyone know if i would get the same amount out as pulling the drain plug ? looking at buying this Mityvac 7201 Fluid Evacuator Plus thanks all
 
Last edited:
i was thinking of using a pump to pull fluid out of the fill hole anyone know if i would get the same amount out as pulling the drain plug ? looking at buying this Mityvac 7201 Fluid Evacuator Plus thanks all

IMO... if going to the trouble to change you should drain. A more complete drain, better extraction of particulate and a chance to clean the magnet are just a few reasons...
 
No. Do not attach a vacuum to the drain. The system is designed for drain and fill to restore viscosity, not a complete flush. YOu will pull fluid that would not normally drain and may cause problems later. Btw last time I drained my almost 5q came out.
 
I'm sure there will be a lot of different opini9ns on this, and they are welcome...

Rather than pumping out the fluid, anyone have thoughts for doing a double drain with say 1000 miles between each...at least for first drain refill? Might be overkill, but one can certainly argue that theis one time double drain should certainly do a more thorough clearing of the break in particles in the tranny, and torque converter.
 
I'm sure there will be a lot of different opini9ns on this, and they are welcome...

Rather than pumping out the fluid, anyone have thoughts for doing a double drain with say 1000 miles between each...at least for first drain refill? Might be overkill, but one can certainly argue that theis one time double drain should certainly do a more thorough clearing of the break in particles in the tranny, and torque converter.

I don't see any issue with that other than expense of fluids... and frankly that seems fairly irrelevant considering transmission rebuild costs.
 
Just my thought instead of pumping out from parts that were not supposed to be during drain, and finding you cannot refill because the pressure while running is required to refill the voids, or worse yet having an air bubble in system...
 
Fwiw I actually noticed a difference in changing my ceont tranfer case vs restoring my trans fluid. Keep in mind the transfer case actually puts power to the wheels. Mine was not filled as specified and there was sludge. Sharp power on turns are much smoother now with less likely to get a DSC induced torque cut. Also I immediately noticed the change in engine braking (which i do often). But I also drive my vehicle harder than most and have a suspension capable of sharp power on turns, + my frequent engine braking will put more wear on the fluid. Remeber that fluid is also a big part in power delivery so as it thins it affects transfer case operation.
 
Did first ATf drain/fill at dealership at 37k miles. Now I'm at nearly 66k miles but this time I want to DIY.

Questions I have are:

- Anyone know the part number for the AT plug washer? Just want to double check in case dealership gives me wrong one.

- Unike the engine oil pan plug being situated at an ideal angle when lifted via ramps, the AT pan plug appears to be flat on the bottom. Would ramps be ok or should I lift all 4 corners leveled?

- I believe Chris advised the tranny system contains 5 quarts total with aprox 3.5 draining out w/o dropping pan. I'm assuming purchasing 4 (1-quart) bottles is sufficient for this project?


Thanks guys.
 
Did first ATf drain/fill at dealership at 37k miles. Now I'm at nearly 66k miles but this time I want to DIY.

Questions I have are:

- Anyone know the part number for the AT plug washer? Just want to double check in case dealership gives me wrong one.

- Unike the engine oil pan plug being situated at an ideal angle when lifted via ramps, the AT pan plug appears to be flat on the bottom. Would ramps be ok or should I lift all 4 corners leveled?

- I believe Chris advised the tranny system contains 5 quarts total with aprox 3.5 draining out w/o dropping pan. I'm assuming purchasing 4 (1-quart) bottles is sufficient for this project?


Thanks guys.

Please keep us informed as to how this went for you. I'll be doing this myself at some point.
 
Did first ATf drain/fill at dealership at 37k miles. Now I'm at nearly 66k miles but this time I want to DIY.

Questions I have are:

- Anyone know the part number for the AT plug washer? Just want to double check in case dealership gives me wrong one.

- Unike the engine oil pan plug being situated at an ideal angle when lifted via ramps, the AT pan plug appears to be flat on the bottom. Would ramps be ok or should I lift all 4 corners leveled?

- I believe Chris advised the tranny system contains 5 quarts total with aprox 3.5 draining out w/o dropping pan. I'm assuming purchasing 4 (1-quart) bottles is sufficient for this project?


Thanks guys.
For AT drain plug washer:
5470202.gif

[3] Trans pan gasket. 2.0 LITER, AUTO TRANS
Part Number: 995641400
MSRP Core Online Price
$1.17 $0.00 $0.84

Looks like transmission pan drain plug and aluminum washer are exactly the same as engine oil pan drain plug and aluminum washer. They carry the same part numbers - FS5021249 for plug. So 8mm Allen hex key or bit is needed like engine oil change.

Some posts from Change automatic transmission fluid? may have answered your questions:

A drain and fill of approx. 5.1 US qt, per service manual is pretty much the only service regarding the ATF.
So did you pour in 4 quarts of fresh Mazda Type FZ ATF for the drain-and-fill?
3 quarts and about ~24 oz, still have a little bit left on the 4th bottle.

runtohell121 : Just curious if you jacked up your CX-5 to change fluid or just changed on level ground.
Jacked up slightly on both side (making it level) to remove the panel and when draining.
I'd just raise the front a bit with both front tires on 2-layer 2X10 wood board used for my oil change. I can then raise the rear a bit with floor jack to make the vehicle level while draining. You can do the same even with your oil change ramps. According to owner's manual and service manual, total capacity of automatic transaxle fluid is 8.2 US quarts, not 5 quarts! So drain-and-fill method can only replace a little less than half of the old ATF anyway. I wouldn't worry too much about keeping the CX-5 level during ATF draining. Now are you going to be doing drain-and-fill 2~3 times for this ATF change? ;)
 
For AT drain plug washer:
5470202.gif

[3] Trans pan gasket. 2.0 LITER, AUTO TRANS
Part Number: 995641400
MSRP Core Online Price
$1.17 $0.00 $0.84

Looks like transmission pan drain plug and aluminum washer are exactly the same as engine oil pan drain plug and aluminum washer. They carry the same part numbers - FS5021249 for plug. So 8mm Allen hex key or bit is needed like engine oil change.

Some posts from Change automatic transmission fluid? may have answered your questions:


I'd just raise the front a bit with both front tires on 2-layer 2X10 wood board used for my oil change. I can then raise the rear a bit with floor jack to make the vehicle level while draining. You can do the same even with your oil change ramps. According to owner's manual and service manual, total capacity of automatic transaxle fluid is 8.2 US quarts, not 5 quarts! So drain-and-fill method can only replace a little less than half of the old ATF anyway. I wouldn't worry too much about keeping the CX-5 level during ATF draining. Now are you going to be doing drain-and-fill 2~3 times for this ATF change? ;)


Okay thanks for the good useful info. Good thing about Mazda is parts are universal. Example is the same oil filter is likely used from the Mazda2 all the up to the CX-9 Turbo. So the same washer used for engine oil plug being used on the transmission plug comes to no surprise.

I have good quality ramps but no floor jack. May have to invest in one long enough and spec'd to lift entire back or front end of our Mazdas for future projects.

At 8.2 quarts ok got it. 4 (1-quart bottles) per drain/fill session. Repeat the process after say 1-2 weeks. I'd say transmission will have aprox. 90% or more of new fluid in it. I'd be set for 3 years at an investment of aprox. $120 in ATF fluid for 2 sessions.


Some useful general info regarding ATF drain fill and flushes here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o690DovjDAc (Fast foward to the 5:00 mark)
 
⋯ Some useful general info regarding ATF drain fill and flushes here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o690DovjDAc
This's my favorite video for changing ATF and filter on a CX-5 by removing the fluid pan:


This Japanese CX-5 has only 13,121 km / 8,153 miles. This guy put 5 magnetics outside the fluid pan in addition to one stock magnet sitting inside. As you can see there're lots of metal shavings attached to those magnet areas once the fluid pan got removed! This makes me having an urge to remove and clean the pan on my CX-5 right away! I also noticed that the threaded ATF drain hole is reinforced to accept the threaded bolt of the drain plug. Hence the inside of drain hole is not flush with the pan and that tiny "wall" will make some ATF left in the pan even if you keep the vehicle level. Also the part number for Mazda ATF filter is FZ01-21-500 and the funny thing is the stock filter he removed is made in USA!

This guy used "ThreeBond 1207C Liquid Gasket Reddish Brown" to form the new gasket for the fluid pan. And the spec sheet he used indicates:

SkyActiv-Drive automatic transmission has 4 models:

FW6A-EL for SkyActiv-G FWD and FW6AX-EL for SkyActiv-G AWD.
- Total ATF capacity is 7.8L / 8.24 US quarts.
- Drain-and-fill estimate including filter replacement: 3.5~4.9L / 3.7~5.18 US Quarts.

GW6A-EL for SkyActiv-D FWD and GW6AX-EL for SkyActiv-D AWD.
- Total ATF capacity is 8.0L / 8.45 US quarts.
- Drain-and-fill estimate including filter replacement: 3.5~4.9L / 3.7~5.18 US Quarts.

The guy refilled with 4.2L / 4,200 cc / 4.44 US Quarts Mazda Genuine ATF FZ during the first drain-and-fill with pan removal and filter replacement. The second simple drain-and-fill he used 3.57L / 3.77 US Quarts fresh ATF FZ. He claimed by doing this drain-and-fill diluting method twice with filter change at first drain, at least 70% of old ATF would get replaced. He also suggested ATF does need to be changed and the change should be made in a clean and dry environment. Finally, he compared ATF after first drain-and-fill and second drain-and-fill, to fresh ATF. You'll be the judge if we need to change the ATF or not!

Notice that how the guy simply drove up to 4 pieces of 6X6 wood to raise the height of the CX-5 easily and safely in level!

Yeah, they do sell Mazda Genuine ATF FZ in large 10-liter / 2.5-gallon metal bucket container in Japan! :)
 
This's my favorite video for changing ATF and filter on a CX-5 by removing the fluid pan:


This Japanese CX-5 has only 13,121 km / 8,153 miles. This guy put 5 magnetics outside the fluid pan in addition to one stock magnet sitting inside. As you can see there're lots of metal shavings attached to those magnet areas once the fluid pan got removed! This makes me having an urge to remove and clean the pan on my CX-5 right away! I also noticed that the threaded ATF drain hole is reinforced to accept the threaded bolt of the drain plug. Hence the inside of drain hole is not flush with the pan and that tiny "wall" will make some ATF left in the pan even if you keep the vehicle level. Also the part number for Mazda ATF filter is FZ01-21-500 and the funny thing is the stock filter he removed is made in USA!

This guy used "ThreeBond 1207C Liquid Gasket Reddish Brown" to form the new gasket for the fluid pan. And the spec sheet he used indicates:

SkyActiv-Drive automatic transmission has 4 models:

FW6A-EL for SkyActiv-G FWD and FW6AX-EL for SkyActiv-G AWD.
- Total ATF capacity is 7.8L / 8.24 US quarts.
- Drain-and-fill estimate including filter replacement: 3.5~4.9L / 3.7~5.18 US Quarts.

GW6A-EL for SkyActiv-D FWD and GW6AX-EL for SkyActiv-D AWD.
- Total ATF capacity is 8.0L / 8.45 US quarts.
- Drain-and-fill estimate including filter replacement: 3.5~4.9L / 3.7~5.18 US Quarts.

The guy refilled with 4.2L / 4,200 cc / 4.44 US Quarts Mazda Genuine ATF FZ during the first drain-and-fill with pan removal and filter replacement. The second simple drain-and-fill he used 3.57L / 3.77 US Quarts fresh ATF FZ. He claimed by doing this drain-and-fill diluting method twice with filter change at first drain, at least 70% of old ATF would get replaced. He also suggested ATF does need to be changed and the change should be made in a clean and dry environment. Finally, he compared ATF after first drain-and-fill and second drain-and-fill, to fresh ATF. You'll be the judge if we need to change the ATF or not!

Notice that how the guy simply drove up to 4 pieces of 6X6 wood to raise the height of the CX-5 easily and safely in level!

Yeah, they do sell Mazda Genuine ATF FZ in large 10-liter / 2.5-gallon metal bucket container in Japan! :)


Ah yes I remember this video. Some of that sludge could be during the break in period? Meaning if he were to drop the pan again in the future it would probably take him more than 8k miles to accumulate that amount sludge.

I was at the dealership this morning getting my oil change and tire rotation done for my 16 Mazda6. I talked to the guy in the parts department and also one of the mechanics there whom was getting a part in the parts room. Both confirmed the washer used in the oil drain plug is the same part as the washer for tranny plug. So I bought a 5-pack of washers. I asked the tech (mechanic) regarding the skyactiv transmission fluid process (keep in mind this dealership did my first atf drain/fill) and he said that roughly 40% of the atf fluid is changed during the process. They normally charge $250 for the service (1 session )although they usually have a coupon to knock it down to $199. For about $120 I can DIY for 2 sessions.

For the CX-5 which sees 80% uncongested freeway driving by my wife- atf drain and fill for 2 sessions should be good. Simple drain/fill atf x 2 sessions every 30-40k miles should not only get the CX-5 to 200k miles but 200k silky smooth miles at that imho.

For the Mazda6 it see's 85% street driving and sees manual mode and sport mode a lot more meaning the ATF's protective property lifespan will be shorter. Atf drain/fill will be done at around 30k miles and dropping the pan and changing filter at 60k miles after power train warranty expires.

Will be doing this project soon in tandem with oil change.
 
This's my favorite video for changing ATF and filter on a CX-5 by removing the fluid pan:


This Japanese CX-5 has only 13,121 km / 8,153 miles. This guy put 5 magnetics outside the fluid pan in addition to one stock magnet sitting inside. As you can see there're lots of metal shavings attached to those magnet areas once the fluid pan got removed! This makes me having an urge to remove and clean the pan on my CX-5 right away! I also noticed that the threaded ATF drain hole is reinforced to accept the threaded bolt of the drain plug. Hence the inside of drain hole is not flush with the pan and that tiny "wall" will make some ATF left in the pan even if you keep the vehicle level. Also the part number for Mazda ATF filter is FZ01-21-500 and the funny thing is the stock filter he removed is made in USA!

This guy used "ThreeBond 1207C Liquid Gasket Reddish Brown" to form the new gasket for the fluid pan. And the spec sheet he used indicates:

SkyActiv-Drive automatic transmission has 4 models:

FW6A-EL for SkyActiv-G FWD and FW6AX-EL for SkyActiv-G AWD.
- Total ATF capacity is 7.8L / 8.24 US quarts.
- Drain-and-fill estimate including filter replacement: 3.5~4.9L / 3.7~5.18 US Quarts.

GW6A-EL for SkyActiv-D FWD and GW6AX-EL for SkyActiv-D AWD.
- Total ATF capacity is 8.0L / 8.45 US quarts.
- Drain-and-fill estimate including filter replacement: 3.5~4.9L / 3.7~5.18 US Quarts.

The guy refilled with 4.2L / 4,200 cc / 4.44 US Quarts Mazda Genuine ATF FZ during the first drain-and-fill with pan removal and filter replacement. The second simple drain-and-fill he used 3.57L / 3.77 US Quarts fresh ATF FZ. He claimed by doing this drain-and-fill diluting method twice with filter change at first drain, at least 70% of old ATF would get replaced. He also suggested ATF does need to be changed and the change should be made in a clean and dry environment. Finally, he compared ATF after first drain-and-fill and second drain-and-fill, to fresh ATF. You'll be the judge if we need to change the ATF or not!

Notice that how the guy simply drove up to 4 pieces of 6X6 wood to raise the height of the CX-5 easily and safely in level!

Yeah, they do sell Mazda Genuine ATF FZ in large 10-liter / 2.5-gallon metal bucket container in Japan! :)
I'll tell you what he didn't do...check his fluid level in the trans...
 
I'd consider dropping the pan if there was just a gasket used. I'd want to give car a good 24 hours just to be sure liquid gasket seal was good. It will just be drain & refill for me.
 
I'll tell you what he didn't do...check his fluid level in the trans...
Great point! I guess it's hard for me to "estimate" the proper ATF temperature at 50C / 122F before measuring the fluid level as I don't have an App to read ATF temperature from ECU. Putting exact amount of drained out ATF back is a risky business for Mazda's as we don't know if the ATF was underfilled from factory like many other fluids on CX-5!

I like Honda's way as the manual gives me an exact ATF amount (3.1 US qt), not a wide range like Mazda's (3.7~5.18 US qt), for ATF change. I simply drained and fill that amount of Honda ATF and be done with it. Don't even bother to check the ATF temperature and measure the level!

The Japanese video maker does have some sort of pod display on A pillar to read some ECU parameters though.

6. Idle the car (or drive around the block) to heat up the oil before you take a reading. I've found that idling to get a proper reading may take a while, so give it about 10 mins. You are supposed to check it at 50 c (122f). I did this before I drained and filled and it was reading below, got hotter and it was still below (used torque pro to get atf temp from ecu); it read correctly after I had driven though (tested after a drive with the motor still on, wiped it and retook the reading). Just a head up. Add (or drain lol) atf as needed.
 

Latest posts

Back