Guide ATF Drain/Fill

All finished with reinstalling the filter, pan, and refilling fluid. I did end up having to carefully apply the Motorcraft silicone remover to the transmission body, and surgically scrub with a brass brush. I degreased the mating surface after that and reinstalled the pan with Mazda RTV.

Each bolt was tightened to about 80 inch pounds. I highly recommend doing that with a torque wrench and not by feel. It was impossibly difficult for me to gauge how tight the bolts should be without a torque wrench. I got a 1/4” drive one at Harbor Freight for $20, and they can cost as little as $13 if they have an active coupon.

Remember to check the dipstick with the engine running and the fluid at operating temp. The level on the stick is higher with the car turned off vs when the pump is circulating fluid with the engine running. It took a little over 5 quarts as promised to refill after dropping the pan and filter vs 3.5-3.75 drain only.
 
All finished with reinstalling the filter, pan, and refilling fluid. I did end up having to carefully apply the Motorcraft silicone remover to the transmission body, and surgically scrub with a brass brush. I degreased the mating surface after that and reinstalled the pan with Mazda RTV.

Each bolt was tightened to about 80 inch pounds. I highly recommend doing that with a torque wrench and not by feel. It was impossibly difficult for me to gauge how tight the bolts should be without a torque wrench. I got a 1/4” drive one at Harbor Freight for $20, and they can cost as little as $13 if they have an active coupon.

Remember to check the dipstick with the engine running and the fluid at operating temp. The level on the stick is higher with the car turned off vs when the pump is circulating fluid with the engine running. It took a little over 5 quarts as promised to refill after dropping the pan and filter vs 3.5-3.75 drain only.
Did you apply OEM RTV on both sides (I remember that’s Mazda Work Shop’s procedure) or just one side (on the pan)?

What kind of OBDII reader setup did you use to get the ATF temperature? Did you remove entire airflow sensor with air filter box; or just the bottom part of air filter box and sway it out of the way to take the ATF level measurement with engine idling?
 
I'm kinda surprised that some take so much out to get at AT dipstick. I put my CX-5 up on 4 Rhino ramps when I changed mine and was able to easily check it from the bottom and also fill it with a long tubed funnel from the top. I found no need to move or disconnect anything relate to the airbox. I suppose not wanting to be under the car may register for some but I use the 12k lb versions.
 
I'm kinda surprised that some take so much out to get at AT dipstick. I put my CX-5 up on 4 Rhino ramps when I changed mine and was able to easily check it from the bottom and also fill it with a long tubed funnel from the top. I found no need to move or disconnect anything relate to the airbox. I suppose not wanting to be under the car may register for some but I use the 12k lb versions.
You may be the only one I’ve seen is willing to go under checking the ATF level from the bottom.
 
If someone else wants to go this method...dipstick was easy for me to get at with splash shield dropped and car on 4 ramps. May be harder to get FWD CX-5 on the 4 ramps though. Another option drive onto front ramps, lift rear, put ramps under rear tires, and then lower rear onto rear ramps. I feel safer with ramps over jack stands myself...but can't use ramps for every vehicle maintenance.
 
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If someone else wants to go this method...dipstick was easy for me to get at with splash shield dropped and car on 4 ramps. May be harder to get FWD CX-5 on the 4 ramps though. Another option drive onto front ramps, lift rear, put ramps under rear tires, and then lower rear onto rear ramps. I feel safer with ramps over jack stands myself...but can't use ramps for every vehicle maintenance.
RHINO ramps are the best.
I think what we may have chuckled about is why would you check your fluid level on ATF while engine is running going under the car on even RHINO ramps ? Auh no thank you! hahahaha!
 
Did you apply OEM RTV on both sides (I remember that’s Mazda Work Shop’s procedure) or just one side (on the pan)?

What kind of OBDII reader setup did you use to get the ATF temperature? Did you remove entire airflow sensor with air filter box; or just the bottom part of air filter box and sway it out of the way to take the ATF level measurement with engine idling?
I skipped applying RTV to the transmission itself. I put the RTV on the pan, gave it about 10 minutes, and then put the pan on. The Mazda RTV was still wet and really didn’t harden at all. The only way I could’ve applied it to the transmission would have been by smearing it, and I wasn’t too bothered skipping that step.

I also skipped the OBD sensor for temp. I filled the transmission with a little over four quarts of ATF with the airbox removed to fit a long reach funnel. I wish I had started with about 4 1/2 quarts as you’ll read soon. I really didn’t want to overfill if it could be helped. I reinstalled the air box nearly upside down in engine bay (attached to throttle body, sensor plugged in) hoping that wouldn’t throw a code but it did anyway lol. I’m sure there must have been an air leak.

I stated the car, ran the selector through D N R and back, and checked the ATF level. I removed the airbox again to fill the transmission from above adding about 8 ounces. I repeated those steps above until the reading was at the lower end of acceptable on the dipstick. By this time, the blue coolant light was off on the dashboard from starting and stopping the car each time to get the airbox out of the way to add more ATF. I reinstalled the airbox properly and took the car for a leisurely drive around the neighborhood, nothing crazy. I checked the dipstick after getting back home and the reading was right in the middle.

I unhooked the battery to reset the check engine code and buttoned the shroud back up underneath. Popped the battery cable back on and we’re good to go. No codes. ATF right where it should be with the engine warmed up.

Removing and reinstalling the airbox was annoying but I couldn’t fit my large funnel in there anyway with the air box present. That kept me doing everything from above this time, and I didn’t feel like running the transmission through its selections with the car in the air.
 
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RHINO ramps are the best.
I think what we may have chuckled about is why would you check your fluid level on ATF while engine is running going under the car on even RHINO ramps ? Auh no thank you! hahahaha!

Blocked wheels and in Park.. at that point I guess the car could just as easily throw itself in gear and mow the owner down from the front at ground level.

I change the AT fluid in my GX the same way..... as the 2004+ Toyota/Lexus V8s don't have a dipstick so check has to occur under the vehicle while running.

Not going to dismiss other's concerns though.. you have to do what you are safely comfortable with

I used this funnel filling mine

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I am still torn though between RTV and 3rd party gasket.... one side only used in snowmobile head rebuilds but the latter never a personal issue for automotive use.
 
I am still torn though between RTV and 3rd party gasket.... one side only used in snowmobile head rebuilds but the latter never a personal issue for automotive use.
The correct sealant and applied properly is the only way to go in my book. Too much chance of a gasket leaking. I've experienced enough of those in years past. It may take a year to begin leaking and no amount of carefully snugging up the bolts a little more seems to ever fix it. Gear case sealants are used with good success in industrial applications for a reason. One that I've used in the past was Hylomar. Developed by Rolls Royce if IIRC.
 
So what is the recommended RTV bead application width to ensure not too much or little assuming application roughly along bolt thread halfway point around the pan? Obviously too little is concern for leaks, seeps, and weeps but don't want to introduce too much that could make it's way into the pan. A small amount would get picked up by filter though.

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I'd still be apt to use one of these tube tools for RTV application


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So what is the recommended RTV bead application width to ensure not too much or little assuming application roughly along bolt thread halfway point around the pan? Obviously too little is concern for leaks, seeps, and weeps but don't want to introduce too much that could make it's way into the pan. A small amount would get picked up by filter though.

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I'd still be apt to use one of these tube tools for RTV application


71Fo9KOuQ6L._AC_SL1418_.jpg
The little key that comes with Mazdas silicone gasket maker worked perfectly. It rolled the tube up super tight without wasting material and was easy to control. The dispenser tip has different sizes that you can cut like you’d find on a tube of caulk. I went with the second smallest size which made a ~1/8-3/16” bead. I used a little less than half the tube. A little but of silicone squeezed out of the outside of the pan and looked just like the amount from the factory.
 
Did you use something other than PN listed in FSM? PN shows product without the key.

TB1217E

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Thanks
 
So what is the recommended RTV bead application width to ensure not too much or little assuming application roughly along bolt thread halfway point around the pan? Obviously too little is concern for leaks, seeps, and weeps but don't want to introduce too much that could make it's way into the pan. A small amount would get picked up by filter though.

View attachment 307393View attachment 307394View attachment 307395View attachment 307396


I'd still be apt to use one of these tube tools for RTV application


71Fo9KOuQ6L._AC_SL1418_.jpg
With the tube tool, are you going to try applying the RTV on both sides like workshop manual stated?
 
While FSM says "Apply a light coat of silicon sealant (TB1217E or equivalent) to the contact surfaces of the oil pan and transaxle case. "

It is only shown as being applied to the AT pan. IMO: I really doubt they expect application on both surfaces. If they were requiring dual application this would be unique to anything I have seen in any FSMs I've had for the last 25 years.

Open to being corrected and other brands that require it though.
 
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