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Thread: ATF Drain/Fill

  1. #136
    i-ACTIV AWD Aficionado Kedis82ZE8's Avatar
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    IIRC more fluid will be resting in the pan while engine is off than on. I suppose this is why you have to always check level with engine running . That is what I have seen on my GX anyways.
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  2. #137
    Registered Member yrwei52's Avatar
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    Arrow ATF Drain/Fill

    Quote Originally Posted by Triton46 View Post
    Good points. My initial reading from the ATF dipstick was at the second "2" on the 122 with the car warmed up and the engine off. It would be interesting to hear, on a properly measured fill, what the reading from the ATF dipstick was with engine running and not running. I did not see any frothing or bubbles on the dipstick which is usually an indication of an overfill.
    Like ColoradoDriver said, you have to keep the engine idling while taking the read on ATF level. Your read was high is because your engine is not idling. The main concern is under-fill not the over-fill, as many have found the factory ATF level is low. If you use the same volume of drained out ATF to refill, chances are you may under-fill the ATF as 3.5 quarts seem a bit low to refill. 3.7 ~ 3.8 quarts are more or less the right volume.

  3. #138
    Registered Member yrwei52's Avatar
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    Arrow ATF Drain/Fill

    Here is ATF level measurement procedure from Mazda factory service manual:

    Quote Originally Posted by yrwei52 View Post
    Nice!

    ATF level should be at the central marker area on the dipstick at 122F while the engine is running. Make sure to shift into all possible gears during the warm-up.

    Judging by the color of your drained ATF, I may consider another drain-and-fill if I were you.


    Attachment 219691
    Last edited by yrwei52; 05-11-2019 at 02:15 PM.

  4. #139
    Registered Member Triton46's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by yrwei52 View Post
    Like ColoradoDriver said, you have to keep the engine idling while taking the read on ATF level. Your read was high is because your engine is not idling. The main concern is under-fill not the over-fill, as many have found the factory ATF level is low. If you use the same volume of drained out ATF to refill, chances are you may under-fill the ATF as 3.5 quarts seem a bit low to refill. 3.7 ~ 3.8 quarts are more or less the right volume.
    I pulled the inspection plate/cap under the car when I got home today from work (10 mile drive) and removed the dipstick while the car was still running (and warmed up). It was right on the center block (middle) of the dipstick. After cleaning it off and reinserting, it showed again to be in the center.

  5. #140
    Registered Member yrwei52's Avatar
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    Arrow ATF Drain/Fill

    Quote Originally Posted by Triton46 View Post
    I pulled the inspection plate/cap under the car when I got home today from work (10 mile drive) and removed the dipstick while the car was still running (and warmed up). It was right on the center block (middle) of the dipstick. After cleaning it off and reinserting, it showed again to be in the center.
    From your description I do believe your ATF level is a bit low, like it was from factory.

    Like Mazda's factory service manual and ATF dipstick say, you have to measure ATF level with its temperature at 122F. Apparently your ATF temperature could reach 192F when your engine was fully warmed up at the time you took the measurement. ATF expands a lot more than engine oil when their temperatures are getting warmer. That's why all car manufactures will specify ATF temperature when ATF level is measured. Your ATF level is right on the central maker area when ATF was hot, it'd be below that level when ATF is colder at 122F. You need a bit more ATF to bring up thd level at 122F.

  6. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by yrwei52 View Post
    From your description I do believe your ATF level is a bit low, like it was from factory.

    Like Mazda's factory service manual and ATF dipstick say, you have to measure ATF level with its temperature at 122F. Apparently your ATF temperature could reach 192F when your engine was fully warmed up at the time you took the measurement. ATF expands a lot more than engine oil when their temperatures are getting warmer. That's why all car manufactures will specify ATF temperature when ATF level is measured. Your ATF level is right on the central maker area when ATF was hot, it'd be below that level when ATF is colder at 122F. You need a bit more ATF to bring up thd level at 122F.
    Let me put it this way. I drained 3.5 quarts and it took 3.7 quarts to get it to the correct level at the correct temperature.
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  7. #142
    Registered Member Triton46's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by yrwei52 View Post
    From your description I do believe your ATF level is a bit low, like it was from factory.

    Like Mazda's factory service manual and ATF dipstick say, you have to measure ATF level with its temperature at 122F. Apparently your ATF temperature could reach 192F when your engine was fully warmed up at the time you took the measurement. ATF expands a lot more than engine oil when their temperatures are getting warmer. That's why all car manufactures will specify ATF temperature when ATF level is measured. Your ATF level is right on the central maker area when ATF was hot, it'd be below that level when ATF is colder at 122F. You need a bit more ATF to bring up thd level at 122F.
    Quote Originally Posted by ColoradoDriver View Post
    Let me put it this way. I drained 3.5 quarts and it took 3.7 quarts to get it to the correct level at the correct temperature.
    You guys are extremely patient, this makes total sense. Thank you! I went out to the garage and pulled the inspection plate, removed the ATF dipstick and added 0.2 QTS.
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  8. #143
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    What is/are your sources for ATF type FZ

    Has your local Mazda dealer been a positive experience for you? How much is FZ at your dealer?

    Or have you found another source?

    I bought my CX-5 recently, which has close to 80,000 miles, and to me the transmission fluid's pretty dirty looking. This thin looking stuff seems to only have one way to drain it... from the pan. Am I right? Perhaps by the third change it'll be looking blue for a while.

    I noticed that it's about $18/quart and I'm likely going to go through a case to get the dirty stuff changed out from my car. That's close to $240 with tax, without a filter. Online I saw prices that go as low as about $13/quart once shipping is considered, buying it with a filter. Wondering if the filter will get shipped in a box with fluid by someone not thinking how the filter will hold up to being banged around.

    What source(s) have you found for FZ fluid?

    Thanks!
    Last edited by 2014CX5GTAWD; 04-24-2019 at 11:56 PM.

  9. #144
    Resident barbarian ColoradoDriver's Avatar
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    I did 3 drain and fills total at 71k miles and by that 3rd drain I can't say it looked any bluer personally which was disappointing but fresh fluid is fresh fluid. I first bought 10 quarts for around $150 (if I recall). Needed an 11th to finish the job and that bottle was $15.

    There are sources online closer to $10, but shipping costs can kill that savings unless you find on Amazon or something.
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  10. #145
    i-ACTIV AWD Aficionado Kedis82ZE8's Avatar
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    Amazon is like $18/quart with free shipping. At this point $15 might be a good deal.

    I see this being touted as a compatible AT fluid but not seeing any real price savings. I'm just gonna stick with OEM.

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  11. #146
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    I did this over the weekend, pretty smooth sailing thanks to all of the great info in this thread. Thanks to all who have contributed.

    One minor snag though, a dealership which shall remain nameless had done a drain and fill at ~30K. When I pulled the dipstick, the end was snapped off and I only had the remaining part up to just below the center dot. Now I'm concerned that the missing piece is floating around somewhere in the transmission. Grrrrrrr.

    For peace of mind I'm going to end up doing it again but this time dropping the pan to see if the missing bit is in there.

    It's never easy!

    ETA: Part number for the dipstick is FZ0119AA0 and the o-ring is FS5219822 if anyone runs into the same problem.
    Last edited by Speedie95; 05-20-2019 at 09:12 AM.

  12. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by Speedie95 View Post
    I did this over the weekend, pretty smooth sailing thanks to all of the great info in this thread. Thanks to all who have contributed.

    One minor snag though, a dealership which shall remain nameless had done a drain and fill at ~30K. When I pulled the dipstick, the end was snapped off and I only had the remaining part up to just below the center dot. Now I'm concerned that the missing piece is floating around somewhere in the transmission. Grrrrrrr.

    For peace of mind I'm going to end up doing it again but this time dropping the pan to see if the missing bit is in there.

    It's never easy!

    ETA: Part number for the dipstick is FZ0119AA0 and the o-ring is FS5219822 if anyone runs into the same problem.
    Why don't you name the dealer? Because the evidence is circumstantial and you aren't certain they are responsible? If you know they did this, why not tell us?

  13. #148
    Resident barbarian ColoradoDriver's Avatar
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    Wow, shitty dealer if they did that. I'd name and shame.
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  14. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by murky View Post
    Why don't you name the dealer? Because the evidence is circumstantial and you aren't certain they are responsible? If you know they did this, why not tell us?
    It's been 15K since they did the drain and fill. If I'd caught it right after then I'd name them. Put it this way: having been on the receiving end of some of their other "work" I don't doubt for a moment that it was them, and they're the only ones who'd have had any reason to have pulled the ATF dipstick. There's a reason I'm doing any work that's within my skill set myself these days. But without 100% incontrovertible proof it's not worth it.

  15. #150
    Registered Member Conrad 16.5's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Speedie95 View Post
    It's been 15K since they did the drain and fill. If I'd caught it right after then I'd name them. Put it this way: having been on the receiving end of some of their other "work" I don't doubt for a moment that it was them, and they're the only ones who'd have had any reason to have pulled the ATF dipstick. There's a reason I'm doing any work that's within my skill set myself these days. But without 100% incontrovertible proof it's not worth it.
    Not worth what? A few seconds of your time that may save others the same headache that you have? It doesn't cost you a dime to mention the name of the dealer who did the work.
    "Don't bother me with facts, Son. I've already made up my mind." -Foghorn Leghorn

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