Guide ATF Drain/Fill

How many miles on our 17 CX-5? If it's less than 50K miles, I believe one drain-and-fill should be sufficient.

And thanks for the info to a good source of getting Mazda FZ ATF!

Based off the experience of our high mileage members posts (150k-200k+ miles) none of them touched the transmission..........so I figure 1 drain-fill attempt (apox 4 quarts) spread out every 40-50k miles should safely get us to 200k miles and beyond. The benefit would be 200k miles of smoother operation than without. In my case its only 3 attempts since I don't really keep cars after 150k miles anyways. I move on to new/newer cars.
 
Did the fluid change on my 2017 CX5 at 30k miles. It sat for almost 2 days before I drained it so 4 quarts came out (measured twice). I put in 4 quarts. Fluid was brownish but not burned but definitely not like fresh fluid.

I didn't check the level as firing it up without the airbox just caused the engine to surge & turn off. I figured since 4 quarts was taken out, I put in back what got drained.
 
I was able to negotiate the price at the Mazda dealership to $12.50 per quart. Remember, the price they give is list, it doesn't hurt to ask if they will drop the pricing.
 
Reading through this, I still have a couple of questions. How many times are you disassembling and reassembling the air cleaner and MAF equipment? It sounds like you have to drain the oil, I would assume you want the dipstick out to make it drain better. The reinstall everything to warm the new fluid up to 122. Then tear it apart again to check the dipstick, but you have to have it connected to be able to run the engine while checking the level on the stick... take that times at least two for two drain and fills. Have I got that right?

Also, I would assume that even thought you can drain the fluid with the front end raised, you would need it pretty level for checking the dip stick correct? I don’t have a good way/place to get all four corners lifted at once.

And finally, if you are doing two or three D&Fs, I would think that you wouldn’t have to get the level perfect until the final one. Driving around the block with it off by a couple of tenths of a qt. Shouldn’t matter should it?

I have to say, this sounds like a real pain compared to any other car of done this on.
 
Reading through this, I still have a couple of questions. How many times are you disassembling and reassembling the air cleaner and MAF equipment? It sounds like you have to drain the oil, I would assume you want the dipstick out to make it drain better. The reinstall everything to warm the new fluid up to 122. Then tear it apart again to check the dipstick, but you have to have it connected to be able to run the engine while checking the level on the stick... take that times at least two for two drain and fills. Have I got that right?

Also, I would assume that even thought you can drain the fluid with the front end raised, you would need it pretty level for checking the dip stick correct? I don’t have a good way/place to get all four corners lifted at once.

And finally, if you are doing two or three D&Fs, I would think that you wouldn’t have to get the level perfect until the final one. Driving around the block with it off by a couple of tenths of a qt. Shouldn’t matter should it?

I have to say, this sounds like a real pain compared to any other car of done this on.
I had to redo mine a number of times before getting it perfect and I messed up a few times so luckily I had a syringe handy to suck out the excess ATF because it's pretty easy to overfill. Hardest part is going through the whole motion of getting the car warmed up/shut it off and read the dipstick as the dipstick is wildly inaccurate once the car is off. I wrote up a guide if you want to get a better idea of what it takes if you want to go straight to de-lidding the pan and reapplying the RTV also

You only need to raise the front end to get access to the drain bolt holding the pan in place and once you drain it, you can lower the car back down flat in order to do the fill process. If you're planning to drive only 20-40 miles, it shouldn't be a huge deal. Yes, there is definitely controversy that bubbles will form and aerate the ATF fluid (gears won't be lubed) and this is if you SEVERELY overfill it past the MAX point on the dipstick but even then, 20-40 miles isn't a big enough deal to cause any serious damage (IMO).

https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/ind...sion-fluid-drain-filter-replacement-guide.85/
 
I had to redo mine a number of times before getting it perfect and I messed up a few times so luckily I had a syringe handy to suck out the excess ATF because it's pretty easy to overfill. Hardest part is going through the whole motion of getting the car warmed up/shut it off and read the dipstick as the dipstick is wildly inaccurate once the car is off. I wrote up a guide if you want to get a better idea of what it takes if you want to go straight to de-lidding the pan and reapplying the RTV also

You only need to raise the front end to get access to the drain bolt holding the pan in place and once you drain it, you can lower the car back down flat in order to do the fill process. If you're planning to drive only 20-40 miles, it shouldn't be a huge deal. Yes, there is definitely controversy that bubbles will form and aerate the ATF fluid (gears won't be lubed) and this is if you SEVERELY overfill it past the MAX point on the dipstick but even then, 20-40 miles isn't a big enough deal to cause any serious damage (IMO).

https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/ind...sion-fluid-drain-filter-replacement-guide.85/
So you read the dipstick with the car shut off? I thought you had to do it with it running.

how many times did you have to remove and install the air cleaner, or did you pull the stick from below?

I don’t plan to pull the pan this time. I will be doing it at around 40k.
 
⋯ Hardest part is going through the whole motion of getting the car warmed up/shut it off and read the dipstick as the dipstick is wildly inaccurate once the car is off.
Wait, the ATF level is measured when the engine is idling with ATF temperature at 122°F.

9B0F677D-B31E-4404-87E4-6963A0C5AE1E.jpeg
 
So you read the dipstick with the car shut off? I thought you had to do it with it running.

how many times did you have to remove and install the air cleaner, or did you pull the stick from below?

I don’t plan to pull the pan this time. I will be doing it at around 40k.

My mistake, I meant the dipstick has to be read with the car on. I honestly can't remember how many times I had to take it off since I did it last year around October/November but I can assure you if you don't get it right the first time, you'll probably have to take it off a handful to a dozen times. What would help ensure that you get it right closer to the first time is: (1) checking the ATF fluid dipstick before draining to see if it's at the center point and (2) having a measuring tool for the fluid to get an idea of how much to pour back in such as a 12 quart container.

There's many ways to do the adjusting:
1. Either go under the car and pull the dipstick while the car is on = Risk burning your hand/car isn't flush with the floor unless you jack up all (4) corners or you're willing to do some yoga.

2. Keep the MAF connected while disconnecting the air cleaner assembly lower half = You can access the dipstick from the top but it may be slightly messy as the fluid on the dipstick will dangle everywhere. I found that this method worked best for me with paper towels underneath.

The red is what I disconnected and it comes off as one entire piece.
1611804922318.png
 
My mistake, I meant the dipstick has to be read with the car on. I honestly can't remember how many times I had to take it off since I did it last year around October/November but I can assure you if you don't get it right the first time, you'll probably have to take it off a handful to a dozen times. What would help ensure that you get it right closer to the first time is: (1) checking the ATF fluid dipstick before draining to see if it's at the center point and (2) having a measuring tool for the fluid to get an idea of how much to pour back in such as a 12 quart container.

There's many ways to do the adjusting:
1. Either go under the car and pull the dipstick while the car is on = Risk burning your hand/car isn't flush with the floor unless you jack up all (4) corners or you're willing to do some yoga.

2. Keep the MAF connected while disconnecting the air cleaner assembly lower half = You can access the dipstick from the top but it may be slightly messy as the fluid on the dipstick will dangle everywhere. I found that this method worked best for me with paper towels underneath.

The red is what I disconnected and it comes off as one entire piece.
View attachment 294672
Ok, that makes sense. It should run that way. I don’t need to do this job for a while, but I’m trying to get a good image of what I’ll be up against. This was very helpful.
 
if I am not mistaken there is also a TCM calibration update with the TSB. Gets you the latest version.
I wonder if one can request the software update from the dealer as a service even if no issue experienced.

I can do the PCM but was never able to find a way to do the TCM.
 
yes. they also have a subscription for short term which gives you the latest pcm calibration updates. quite similar to Ford, they are using the same actually at least for 2020 and prior.
Its not Mazda vcm but Bosch :)
I assume legacy from the old partnership.
Asbuilt data also follow the similar principle but Mazda is more secretive on the options vs Ford.
IDS could do all modules (not just pcm and tcm but other stuff like forward camera firmware and few other systems, etc) but its costly for a home use.
Easiest is to go to the dealer and let them do it I guess.
 
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I saw a little while ago that Aisin started making FZ equivalent transmission fluid. My 14 quart order arrived today and it’s currently running about $8-9 a quart at RockAuto. It was $20 shipped to me for the entire order. I saw one report here and another mention at BITOG that the fluid may be red. I can confirm that the fluid I received today (Aisin ATF-MFZ) is actually blue.
 
I found this little guy on Amazon after reading Mazdas directions on how to remove the transmission oil pan: Engine Transmissions Oil Pan Separator KIT PAN Seal Cutter by JTC 1315 https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

It arrived a few days ago and it looks like it will get the job done. Very sturdy. I’ll report back once I give it a try in the next month or so. It’s a little pricey compared to other tools I found on Amazon, but this is the only I found without negative reviews about poor build quality. Those half the price had complaints about the blade snapping in half or it being too thick to be useful.
 
I found this little guy on Amazon after reading Mazdas directions on how to remove the transmission oil pan: Engine Transmissions Oil Pan Separator KIT PAN Seal Cutter by JTC 1315 https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

It arrived a few days ago and it looks like it will get the job done. Very sturdy. I’ll report back once I give it a try in the next month or so. It’s a little pricey compared to other tools I found on Amazon, but this is the only I found without negative reviews about poor build quality. Those half the price had complaints about the blade snapping in half or it being too thick to be useful.
Saw the same tool suggested but different brand by StPark in CX-9 forum. And Silicone Gasket Remover too.

Here's a very useful tool to separate oil pan from aluminum tranny housing;

Oil Pan Separator Tool


Once the pan was removed, use this solvent, use plastic blade after 10 minutes or so;

Silicone Gasket Remover, Motorcraft ZC-30-A

But:
The trans oil pan was like $26 before shipping with no tax at partsouq.com so not much savings vs silcone dissolver at $19. Hopefully I wont need the separator at around 60k mi lol

Please let us know how effective of using this tool to separate the ATF pan.
 
I just hit 110k miles on my 2014 and am ready to do another drain/fill. Need to source some fluid that doesn't cost an arm and a leg. They are gouging the hell out of Type FZ fluid locally.
 
I just hit 110k miles on my 2014 and am ready to do another drain/fill. Need to source some fluid that doesn't cost an arm and a leg. They are gouging the hell out of Type FZ fluid locally.
It is what it is. Even Idemitsu themselves says that the over the counter stuff is not exactly the same as the Mazda branded fluid. There was a thread on BobIsTheOilGuy about that.

I scored 6 quarts of Mazda fluid off of eBay from a Mazda dealer selling on there and got for $75 shipped.
 
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