Left CV Axle Replacement

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2016 CX5 - 2002 P5
I recently noticed a low end clunking coming from the left drivers side. It happens when the front drivers side hits bumps at low speeds. I removed the wheel and when I grab the cv axle and pull on it I can replicate a similar sound. The CV boots are not ripped. There seems to be some very slight play somewhere in the CV axle, maybe the joint. I checked the tie rod and sway bar links, strut mounts and those do not exhibit any play. I just wanted to get some feedback before I replace the CV axle. Thanks so much for your help this is my first post although I've used the forum for years to guide repairs.
 
I recently noticed a low end clunking coming from the left drivers side. It happens when the front drivers side hits bumps at low speeds. I removed the wheel and when I grab the cv axle and pull on it I can replicate a similar sound. The CV boots are not ripped. There seems to be some very slight play somewhere in the CV axle, maybe the joint. I checked the tie rod and sway bar links, strut mounts and those do not exhibit any play. I just wanted to get some feedback before I replace the CV axle. Thanks so much for your help this is my first post although I've used the forum for years to guide repairs.
Unlikely that it's your axle, though I'm not there to see what you can see. I'd assume it's sway link or bushing. Does the axle exhibit play at the transmission case? Or in one of the joints? A small amount of drivetrain lash is acceptable.
 
It is hard to tell exactly where the play is coming from, but I think it is at the transmission case. I will check the sway bar links again (it is new), but the only play I could find was when I grabbed the cv axle and pulled it back and forth. I didn't mention in the earlier post but the steering wheel is pointed to 11 o'clock- and the steering feels a tiny bit loose. I think this might be related to whatever is happening on the left side.
 
I looked it over today and I think it is either an issue with the lower control arm ball joint or the strut mount. I will report back once I replace them. Thanks for your help gswift and preferio
 
Lift up that corner of the car and support it with a t-stand then with the wheel still on,... grab it at the 12 and 6 o-clock position and give it a firm shake/wobble/shimmy,.. at different "rpms" until you hear the clunk. Don't rotate the tire ,... try to twist it (pulling at the top of the tire while pushing at the bottom then vice versa).

Try to get a helper to shake the wheel while you look for movement (the axle doesn't really count,... it's kinda "free floating" as mentioned above (unless it's really worn out)).

I'm betting on the ball joints,... my car did the same sort of thing.

You can also use a pinch bar/chisel/wrench handle/big flat head screw driver and reef between the control arm and steering knuckle (right beside the ball joint) to check for movement (as well as other spots to check for movement).

The ball joint is under quite a bit of pressure and needs a pinch bar to show the slack (worn ball joints easily throw off your steering wheel and make steering sloppy,.. and scrub out your tires too,... check your tread for feathering on the edges,.. your alignment can go way off with worn ball joints).

You may have worn out steering linkages instead,.. similar sloppy steering,.. you'll be able to see that slop too,... grab the tire at the 9 and 3 positions for that test, it shows steering slop,... the key is to leave the tire on and reef like hell,... there's a lot of heavy friction you need to overcome to show the slack.
 
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