Ground issues, advice please

1SICK6

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2006 Mazdaspeed6
I have an 06 Speed6 that I just performed a GT2871R upgrade on. The car has all the supporting mods necessary. I have a CP-E high pressure pump, Sure 3" Aeros intake with 4" inlet, CP-E injector seals and top mount intercooler, and AWR engine mounts. I just did an oil change and topped off the antifreeze. It has been dataloged and is in process of being road tested.

My current issue is the car is consistently blowing Engine Ignition fuse 1 located in the driver side fuse box inside the vehicle. I believe this is due to a grounding error on my part, (I attempted to make a temporary battery tie down by rigging up some metal braces from the stock tie down to an unused Bolt on the fuel pump housing bracket, in retrospect this was an absolutely terrible idea, as it was most likely grounding out the motor). I removed the offending item, but now the issue is even more persistent. It has even evolved to effecting the coil pack closest to the fuel pump bracket. After replacing the blown fuse, I turned over the motor, it fires right up, but coil pack #4 begins to emit a white smoke and the plastic on the underside begins to melt.
I swapped the malfunctioning pack to cylinder 1 in attempts to identify whether the wiring is bad. The problem followed this particular pack. Upon further inspection the pack was found to be extremely hot, while none of the others emitted much, if any heat. The car would idle roughly (still ironing out the tune) and then blow the Engine Ignition #1 fuse again.
No other fuses were blown, and it seems to be after about 20-30 seconds of idling.
I'm going to try to replace the damaged coil pack and see if that solves the issue. But I'm concerned that's not the only problem. We checked over our grounds and all sensors multiple times before reassembling the car, and found nothing out of place (save my stupid metallic battery tie down).

I had suspected the AWR passenger side mount of being the culprit as the location of the ground is different than the stock mount. Where the stock mount had a ground posted on the engine side of the mount, this AWR mount relocates the ground to the frame side of the mount, which I immediately found very odd. We attempted to temporarily relocate the ground in efforts to solve the issue, with no luck.

If the coil pack replacement is not effective in solving this issue, would anyone have any ideas on how to go about locating the source of the problem? I will admit I know very little about electrical, my experience is in engine mechanics, so be easy with the electrical lingo if you have any advice.
 
Well poop... I posted up this long and drawn out post of why this happened, but I don't feel like typing it again...

Short version: The issue followed your coil pack when you swapped it and it popped fuses. Unless the good coil pack on #4 starts smoking again, you have a bad coil pack. You don't have a bad ground and instead have a short somewhere in the coil pack. That would cause the fuses to pop.
 
Looks like you were right, the coil pack was bad. It functioned fine prior to the installation of my poorly thought out battery tie down. I replaced it with a new unit and it seems to be working properly with no issues. It ceased blowing fuses and will hold idle nicely. Cars still in the process of remote tuning.

So now we are seeing different issues. The car will idle, and is being dataloged, when we try to use the turn signals, either left or right, the hazard lights come on. It will not isolate a turn signal, and instead both lights come on. Not only that but when I press the lock button when I'm outside the car, it sets off the alarm. If I press it again, it stops. Unlocking is normal, but locking it sets off the alarm? I have a new smart key and new battery as the old one just quit on me on November. I was thinking these two issues are also related to the grounding out of the motor. The car is currently garaged about 2 hours north of my home, so I can't look, but is there a relay for either the factor alarm/theft deterrent or turn signals?
 
So incase anyone was wondering, I solved the issue before it caused too much damage. The grounding out of the motor damaged at least two of the coil packs. I replaced both of the bad ones and the car is running much better. Nearly normal minus the fact that I'm running the bad Autolite XP Iridiums and she's not tuned for the GT2871R.
The bad coils were causing the issues with the turn signals and the alarm.
 
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