Guide MS3 front brake conversion

that's good enough. thanks. (or, i could've just re-read the thread more thoroughly, but that'd be too self-explanatory).
 
I cut both the lower lip and the small ears off square around the caliper mount. Just did this today. Here is the before and after.
gkk2KNLiQZgjyb3coEYFM7a0KZbJzIkG1xHGPR3i2VM=w390-h220-p-no
9eVp5JVxmotDJKHDJ_sLsgcTK35xOG-KtqQlgOvR04o=w390-h220-p-no

And the final result
hFTSlAkTtXSYMfSg_lhk8mwGWYZcxe5d_ScvnKgnRY8=w390-h220-p-no
ZGp-FFmuZjJhwsB5NI4-7PGJmI7NIPQStzjvyeGTlbU=w366-h207-p-no


Thank you, MR6 for an awesome write-up packed with lots of good info.
 
So for the mod ont he 2nd gen, can you stick with the stock 16inch rims or there will not be enough clearance for the larger calipers?
 
I'm going to guess the barrel of the wheel will fit as most do, it matters if the spokes bend out far enough from the hub to allow for the extra thickness of the caliper. I haven't seen where anyone has tried it yet. They may just require thin wheel spacers to make extra room. Sorry I don't have a definitive answer.
 
So let me just dig this old thread up. I am planning to to the MS3 front brake conversion. As I see you guys mentioned the backing plate doesn't fit the 320mm rotor on the MS3. I check the p/n on the backing plates. BBM233260 and BBM233270 are also the p/n to be used on a MS3. So I got confused how come they are not interchangeable? My source is here https://www.parts.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=store.keywordsearch. Am I missing anything?
 
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I'm selling a whole set: Centric NIB (refurbed OEM calipers, new OEM rotors, used Hawk pads.) Will throw up some pics in a bit.

Is $350 fair? Decided to sell the car before I installed this last year. Wife wanted a station wagon, said the car was "too big".
 
So it's my turn, I did the MS3 upgrade in the past weekend and I am a first timer on a brake jobs. Run into some brake noise issue.

Parts involved in the swap.
Front:
MS3 Calipers
Stoptech street pads
Stoptech slotted rotors
Goodridge SS Lines

Rear:
Stoptech street pads
Stoptech slotted rotors
Goodridge SS Lines

Everything is fine on the installation. No surprise and the backing shield plate in the front just fit without problem. Anyway, I did the bed in as per stoptech's suggestion. 2 sets of 10x 60-10 mid to hard braking and cool down after each set. I can smell the brake, not able to see if it's smoking or not coz I did it in the night time. So everything seems fine, called for the day.

The next day I looked at the rotors, I still see some machine marks on them so I think I didn't lay enough transfer layer on the rotor. Head out for 3rd set of bed in procedure. Same as the last 2 set but just do 2-3 stops this time. Nothing really wrong. Still got the same smell and don't see any smoke as I can tell (Did it in the afternoon this time). But then there is a creaking sound developed after that. It creaks whenever I step on the brakes, no matter the car is moving or not. It's not the high pitch squeal noise that ppl usually have when the car came to a stop. It just sounds like stepping on some wood floor in an old house or like an old boat. Didn't have a chance to take it apart and look into it yet. I am pretty sure it come from the calipers, both front side and I can feel some part of that noise is coming from the other side of the firewall, the brake booster I assume? But not 100% sure.

So my assumption here is:

The heat from 3rd bed in might just overheated the brake and some of the brake lube just burnt off?
My neighbor helped bleeding the brake while I was cracking the bleeder screws. Is there a change he stepped on the brake too hard that some thing inside the brake booster just bent and I didn't realize in the first 2 runs?

Any other thoughts that I might did something wrong or missed? I am going to take the fronts out, re-lube everything and see what happen. Thanks in advance.
 
Some quick things to check.

-where did you get the MS3 caliper bodies and what condition were they in?

-did you clean the new rotors with brake cleaner? New rotors have a layer of oil on it to protect it from rust. You need to clean it off real good; a light scotch bright scrub helps. It will eventual burn off but you won’t be able to bed-in pads property until then.

-did the MS3 caliper bracket come with new boots? Old/Deformed boots may cause binding on the slider pins.

-what type of “brake lube” did you use? Some lubs don’t mix well with the certain plastic boots and results in swelling leading to binding (I ran into this trying a new lube)

-I find that pressure bleeding alone (or at one go) is not enough once you opened up your system. After bedding-in and topping off, I suggest taking it out for a sporty drive/braking to get the brake fluid up to temp and bleed again. It is recommended that you brake conservatively for ~500 miles (was ~700 for me b/c HWY), then it gets better!
 
I bought the caliper from another user here. Condition is great but i replaced all new rubber anyway. I used some synthetic o ring grease on the piston o ring and sil-glyde to lube everything else, pins and pads where have contact with caliper. And i cleaned the rotors with brake cleaner before the installation. I think the bed in on the pads / rotors went well and i got an obvious improvement on the braking power. Just the wooden brake pedal killing me badly. I might redo the bleeding if re-lube doesnt help.
 
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Did you pop the piston and replace the seal too? What brand of grease did you use here? Was it used only on the outside or did you apply it all over and inside the body?

I can't think of anything that makes a wooden creaking noise, be interesting to know. If you are going to take the calipers off the rotors, I would suggest stepping on the brake pedal to make sure the piston is moving freely and to eluminate a possible source of the noise.
 
I took the pad out, re-lube the sliding pins, pads where have contacts to piston and caliper even the spring clip and the sound still there. I found something interesting. Creaking sound vibrate the brake line on my front passenger side. And I am suspecting the brake fluid might be just boiled on the 3rd run and there is a bubble trapped down the line. I might re-bleed it and see if it help. Just didn't bring anything to bleed with me today.
 
and there you have it. I lovingly replaced every single last link with imgur images. can't let photobucket just breaks the internets and get away with it!
 
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