P0102 Error.

Ok so here is the story, I kept having a cylinder 4 misfire and ended up bringing it to my "local sketchy mechanic" and these guys said they redid a circuit somewhere. (not sure what they meant of that) got the car back and it pulled the same code again. Brought it back to them and they said that the WGA was not fully opening. After about 2 weeks of leaving the car with them, they placed 1 zip tie to "help the management of pipe routing" and it was still giving the same issue.
So i bring it home and was pissed about the whole scenario so I decided to wire my fuel controller. Ran fine for the whole night. I get into my car and it did not start, turns out their "circuit repair" was by splicing two wires together under my driver side and left it unhooked. if the two wires were not touching the car would not start. So i wire these two wires together and it seemed to run fine.
Last week i decided to replace the airbox with a cone filter I had laying around. Ran fine for 3 days then all of a sudden coming home I had to push the car back due to it idling rough and stalling/killing. So i unplug my MAF and yay it idles, however as soon as i give it throttle it bogs down. So thinking this is the issue, I buy a re manufactured MAF from Rockauto (sorry if there is a rule about listing outside sources) It came in tonight and now the issue still is here. I unplug the maf start the car up and it idles. As soon as i plug the Maf in the car sputters/stalls and dies. Do i have a faulty Remanned Maf? or is there something else going on? I have tried the stock airbox setup as well. It is still a no go. I just replaced the plugs and plug wires also so i don't think that would be an issue. Could a bad coilpack be causing this issue to happen? I am getting the P0102 code from the torque app. This car seems to have too many issues that are "hidden" and its getting really annoying since ive had the car for 3 months and have driven maybe 500 miles due to its issues. Please help as i am about to just give up on this lemon.

Didn't you have the question about the SSAFC? Perhaps its related? I think the signals going to / coming from your maf is messed up.


Sorry about your troubles. I have been knocking out my issues to unravel another issue. I'm convinced once I get it all worked out I will be happy.

Yes i did. Supposedly the wire that i was worried about is just a noise cancellation wire. IIRC i think i wired that wire up to a ground which i guess could be causing an issue somewhere, but im not sure if it would be that since that was with the o2 sensor wire. I plan on taking a look at the wiring again this weekend on my off days but i am almost sure that the wiring isnt the issue. I could be wrong though. I really love the MSP but being able to drive it is a part of the fun. I haven't done that too many times from the purchase... My plan is to wire it back to stock to see if the problem still persists. If not then I know its something I goofed up, however it ran for quite a while afterwards once i found the reason to the starting problem.
Is there a way to check the output of the maf to see if I have a dead one? My luck has not been the best to say the least and i'd like to rule out the simple issues if at all possible.

I used this and eventualy replaced my MAF because I was an idiot and broke the sensor part off. It was easy for me just a lot of reading. Id like to see what happens if you reversed the SSACF

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/testing_maf_sensor/maf_sensor_testing_1.php

I am in NO WAY an expert. Hornsfan and those really rock at this. I just want to help save a MSP. I think mine went from owner to owner who just gave up. Probably why I got it for cheap, but I do love driving it.

I took a look at the article and noticed that the multimeter that i have, has a shot LCD. LOL. I'll be getting another one hopefully real soon and try to check the voltage. From the looks of it, i will have to make small incisions in the wires to check it out due to the rubber fittings on the maf connector.
I do love driving the MSP but the issues seems to keep coming. I just want to be able to drive it without worrying if it'll leave me on the side of the road again. Hell just to be able to drive it would be nice at this point. I know if I bring it to Mazda themselves I'll have a pretty expensive bill to pay, but at this point it's almost worth it. The local crack pot mechanics here are very sneaky at hiding wiring issues i have noticed.
It kinda sucks that I can rely more on a 95 lexus with double the mileage of my MSP lol. I just hate the old CPA looking car haha. For the time being, I guess i'll send the Remanned MAF back as it did not solve my problem and check the wiring of my fuel controller Sunday or Monday.

This may be a dumb question but can you actually run the MSP with the MAF unplugged? Or will it just stall when accelerating? That seems to be my issue. I just want to make sure that's the way these cars are supposed to act with the MAF disconnected.
If the wiring is correct, should I look at the iac and egr? Or will they throw seperate codes?
I'm still thinking I received a faulty maf just due to it stalling as soon as I plug it in while idling.

Did you install an SSAFC? Check the wiring for the MAF sensor. If you did install an AFC it must be a bad connection at the ECU wiring.

Yes i did install the ssafc. Also have a bit of an update that may help troubleshoot a little better.
Just went outside to see if my old maf had any life left in it, and hooked it up cleared all my previous codes and my old maf did not throw a code what so ever. So im pretty certain that the new maf is D.O.A and I have an underlying issue somewhere else. My car would start up idle to 1500 rpm drop down to 800 about 5 times in this cycle and i gave it a little throttle and it stalled out. It is not throwing a CEL, so does this mean it is a vacuum leak some where? or would that throw a code as well?

omg im a flipping idiot... apparently the pipe that runs to my turbo popped off causing this whole ordeal. it was covered with the heat shield so i did not recognize it. It apparently popped off when going into boost. however i am still confused on why it'd idle without the maf. stupidly confusing.
Id say i had a slight vacuum leak. LMFAO. There should be a wall of shame and this should be the top post. hahahaha.

Mine idled without the MAF , but as soon as I started driving it it fell on its face. Glad you found it! I had the same thing happen on my intake pipe that the maf is on.