2003 P5 died at speed, cranks but will not restart

wdwhite9

Member
:
2003 Protege 5
Howdy fellas. I've lurked on here off and on over the last few years and I was hoping I could get some help. I've done a few searches but nothing that I've found addressing what I've got going on.

Background - 2003 P5 w/ 154,XXX, 5-speed. I'm the original owner and I've kept up w/ maintenance. No modifications with the exception of a k&n drop-in filter a few years back. This car has been extremely reliable the 10 years I've had her (except for it eating headlights).

Two days ago, I was driving back to TN from Kentucky when the car broke down. I was on a 2 lane driving between 50-55 and in 5 gear. The engine was not under much load as I began to coast down hill. Then, I heard a dull pop from the engine compartment, CEL came on and the car lost revs. I shifted into neutral and blipped the throttle a couple of times, but the engine did not respond. At about 30 mph, the engine cut off and I coasted to the shoulder. Opening the hood, there were no leaks, no smoke, no blown belts, etc - it looked like it should. Three hours later, a co-worker and myself had it on a dolly headed home.

Upon looking closer the next day, the timing belt is still intact and the cams still rotate. The fuses are all good and the ECU has been reset. The car will crank and has compression, but will not catch. It feels like a carbureted car where you want to pump the throttle while cranking. I do not own a code reader and have not read it yet. I've got a sneaking feeling there is something in the electrical system preventing it from getting spark, but I'm at a loss as to what.

I'm getting close to the end of my diagnostic knowledge and I figured I'd ask the internet for suggestions before I haul her over to a shop and get sold an exhaust bearing or a gallon of turn-signal fluid.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys
 
Have you pulled the spark plugs? Check oil level? Coilpacks go out frequently and randomly but that's just a guess if you don't have any oil covered plugs or a puddle underneath... Or possibly something somehow got into the intake and broke the filament on the maf sensor??
 
Try check your big fuses they might be loose because they dont stay clipped good. Sounds like what happed to me before when my pro5 died
 
I don't think it'd be coil packs. When mine went out my car still started fine and stayed running, but it was misfiring so bad that it ran extremely rough.

After the pop, did you hear any other weird noises? Any clattering or anything in the engine? I could see how it would be a fuse, but maybe it's one of either the cam or crank sensor? Not sure if that would cause a pop though.... Maybe the sensors came loose? Did you hit a bump shortly before the pop?
 
Definitely try and get the code checked though. If nothing else, dolly the car to Advance or AutoZone, they'll read the codes for free.
 
Is the code still on? If you reset the ecu the original code will be gone.
 
My p5 died on me back in august on the highway. I was cruising at 100km/h when then exact same thing happened to me. turned out that both my coil packs died at the same time. I didn't know what it was at first either, i'd crank, i had compression, fuel as well, but nothing happened. i'm guessing after 10 years, the original coils had done their time! while your at it, if you change the coils, get new wires as well!
 
I gave it another look last night after work, before it got dark and addressed some of the above suggestions.

It has oil, coolant, turn-signal fluid, etc. No leaks or puddles.
Double checked the fuses, they are all good.
Plugs look good.
Everything looks as it has for the last 10 years.

When I crank the engine, its getting fuel. Just no spark.

So, I'll head to a local parts store and source a cheap code reader and check the code - figure I'll just buy one as my second vehicle is an '01 Tacoma w/ a gajillion miles on it - so the reader will probably continue to be used. Hopefully the code still pops up after resetting the ECU.

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'm hoping its just the coil packs as what happened to diss3ntienc. I've changed the plugs and wires a few times over the years, but they are the original coil packs in the car. I'll let you guys know.
 
Just cranking it will generate a no-start code (or should).

I agree with getting a code reader. I would suggest you get a newer CAN BUS capable one. it will read all your codes and then also for your next/newer car too. ;) It should cost the same as any other reader... Cool thing too with whichever reader you get is that you can actually read all sensor parameters as you drive (or crank it) too ;)

Let us know what codes are generated.
GL!
 
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I had this problem twice, the first time the belt actually cut through the crank sensor wire, and the second time it happened the teeth on the crank pulley separated from the pulley (I had an aftermarket one), I suggest you look in this area.
 
I would suggest simply replacing the coils regardless. They have a tendency to go bad in strange and weird ways that's really hard to diagnose. I replaced mine but had no problems with them. I think they should be considered a wear item. They are only about 30 bucks a piece ( and I'm a cheap ass,... check out what I did in the hockey puck thread)

As far as I've been able to figure out the car will run with a bad cam sensor (in limp mode) but will not run with a bad crank sensor.

You should get yourself in Elm 327 code reader. It plugs into your OBD2 port and broadcasts to your smartphone showing all of the sensor data on your car. They are $20 or less and with this free torque app available for your phone it works great. ( the torque app is for Android phones but there's other apps available for iPhones).

They of course read and rub codes but that's just a small part of what they'll do.
 
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Well, the car is still down.

I ran out over the weekend and picked up a code reader as well as coil packs, plugs and wires. And I picked up a new big boy 100 amp as mine had a good layer of corrosion on it. I had a feeling the trouble was something a little deeper, but I'd try and eliminate the easiest and cheapest things first. And I tried to justify to myself that since the coils and wires were still from 2003, at worst I've given the car a simple tune up. And that's what I did as it still will not fire.

And to top it off, since I reset the computer, the cheapie autozone code reader will not pick anything up. So, I'm not quite back to square 1, but its still not starting.

I'm going to give a local shop a call in the next day or two to see about getting it hauled over there and having them dive into it. Busting into the timing cover and digging around in there is not above my mechanical ability, but it is above my confidence level - and I have a feeling that is where this problem is situated.

At the moment I'm glad I have the second vehicle for times like these. I'm not stoked about driving all across the state and seeing my mileage going from 30 mpg down to 18-ish. Nor am I looking forward to the impending repair bill. I guess that's the trade off for not having had a car payment in the last 6 years...eventually s*** breaks down.
 
check your crankshaft position sensor. you just check the resistance across the terminal on its connector. you can also check for a signal coming from it while the engine is cranking.
there's a really good chance that this is your problem. the sensor can die in an instant and kill the car.
I'd post a diagram but my computer croaked.

The info for the crank sensor test is on page 01-40B-32
 
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Well, after running though a bunch of ideas to chase down the problem, I finally broke down and had it towed to a local shop.

Problem found - the spring associated with the timing belt tensioner broke, allowing the belt to lose tension and slip. The belt never broke, but it was out of time enough that the computer wouldn't let the engine start. Kind of a bummer that I had a timing belt job done less than 50k ago, but I guess sometimes s*** happens.

My wallet took a hit on the repairs, but I'm looking at all things being less than what 2 months of a new car payment would come out to.
 
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Two days ago, I was driving back to TN from Kentucky when the car broke down. I was on a 2 lane driving between 50-55 and in 5 gear. The engine was not under much load as I began to coast down hill. Then, I heard a dull pop from the engine compartment, CEL came on and the car lost revs. I shifted into neutral and blipped the throttle a couple of times, but the engine did not respond. At about 30 mph, the engine cut off and I coasted to the shoulder. Opening the hood, there were no leaks, no smoke, no blown belts, etc - it looked like it should.

This sounds like crank position sensor or wires/connectors involved with that to me too... but glad you got it sorted out.
(I see the newer post saying it was a slipped timing belt.)
 
How much did it cost for your repairs? I think I may have a similar problem.


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I agree with PCB regarding Crank Sensor. Hook up scan tool (if you bought one that reads live data)and turn the key look for the PID "RPM" if you don't have 250-500+ at cranking you've got a problem with crank sensor and / or Cam position sensor. Crank sensor is hard to get to. the wire come from behind timing cover i think and could have been caught up a destroyed by the accessory drive belt, or it could have just failed causing your crank no start issue.
Cam Sensor is up top on valve cover. front of engine. two wire sensor.
you can also use scan tool to measure and monitor fuel psi, fuel pump voltage ect.
to rule out fuel as the issue , remove intake and spray either/starting fluid into throttle body(hold TB Plate open while doing this) crank engine, if this get the engine running briefly, you have a bad fuel pump or a fuel related issue. rule out the big three: FUEL, SPARK, AIR form there you can work on cause for the failure. For example, if you have no spark it could be any thing from plugs and wires to coils to crank sensor, bad wiring, Bad Timing, Bad PCM etc, etc.
No Fuel, could be bad fuse or relay, bad pump, bad regulator, bad wiring, etc, etc..
Good Luck AND PLEASE let us know what the failure/fix turn out to be. Some of our cars are getting up there in years and it could help us out when and if it happens to one of us! Thanks!
 
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