Guide CX-5 Factory Remote Starter - Install and Program

1 question: Is the hood switch installation required, considering I have 2016 CX-5, AWD - Grand Touring

Yes, I have the exact same car and the hood switch is required. The only time the hood switch is not required is if your car has a factory alarm system, but I don't think that is even an option anymore on US spec CX-5's.

The hood switch is a safety feature so that the engine cannot be remote started when the hood is open.
 
Yes, I have the exact same car and the hood switch is required. The only time the hood switch is not required is if your car has a factory alarm system, but I don't think that is even an option anymore on US spec CX-5's.

The hood switch is a safety feature so that the engine cannot be remote started when the hood is open.

You mean to say if someone breaks into my car, the car wont trigger any honking, loud beeps, flashing headlights - nothing? Should have read the manual more. Even my 2007 car, has an alarm!!

Also, can I still wire this thing without the wood switch?
 
You mean to say if someone breaks into my car, the car wont trigger any honking, loud beeps, flashing headlights - nothing? Should have read the manual more. Even my 2007 car, has an alarm!!

Also, can I still wire this thing without the wood switch?

I don't know what happens if someone breaks into the car, maybe someone else can answer.

I do know that there is no hood switch installed from the factory. If you don't install the hood switch, the remote start will not work because it thinks the hood is open. You could probably jumper the wires at the fuse panel to fake out the remote starter, but why risk it? At $17.95, the hood switch is a drop in the bucket compared to the cost of the other parts.
 
I don't know what happens if someone breaks into the car, maybe someone else can answer.

I do know that there is no hood switch installed from the factory. If you don't install the hood switch, the remote start will not work because it thinks the hood is open. You could probably jumper the wires at the fuse panel to fake out the remote starter, but why risk it? At $17.95, the hood switch is a drop in the bucket compared to the cost of the other parts.
Agreed. Not worth it. I have this great fear of the hood! Anyways, someone did ask where's the temp sensor and later there was a photo of the conn. Great. Now let's assume the main unit is installed and the wires routed and tied up properly above the glove compartment. This means the actual sensor would be facing away, i.e. towards the car front or passenger side or driver side? Also it does require to be tied in also and what I understood considering its connection it's basically along with the wires tied together. That's my assumption.

Finally someone commented the antenna wires ought to be compacted when installing. What does that mean?
 
Agreed. Not worth it. I have this great fear of the hood! Anyways, someone did ask where's the temp sensor and later there was a photo of the conn. Great. Now let's assume the main unit is installed and the wires routed and tied up properly above the glove compartment. This means the actual sensor would be facing away, i.e. towards the car front or passenger side or driver side? Also it does require to be tied in also and what I understood considering its connection it's basically along with the wires tied together. That's my assumption.

Finally someone commented the antenna wires ought to be compacted when installing. What does that mean?

I spent a lot of time trying to determine the best way to route the wires behind the glove compartment. In the end I decided that it really doesn't matter. Just make sure the wires are secure with tie wraps so that they can't rattle and don't interfere with the glove compartment. The location of the temperature sensor doesn't really matter either, it is just tie wrapped to the rest of the wires. The temperature will be the same no matter where it is measured behind the glove compartment on a cold day. Remember that the temperature sensor is only checked initially when the vehicle is started to determine whether or not to turn on the rear defroster.

The antenna can be folded so that it is 90 degrees to the remote start module. This may be for other applications where there is limited space. The instructions did not mention folding the antenna, so I left it straight.
 
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Hello

I am doing this install now.
But i cannot find the Connector to plug the ECU harness to the car.
In the instructions it says "optional"
I have a 16 CX5. Is the problem that these European models dont have this feature?

Best Regards
 
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Hello

I am doing this install now.
But i cannot find the Connector to plug the ECU harness to the car.
In the instructions it says "optional"
I have a 16 CX5 sold in Norway. Is the problem that these European models dont have this feature?

Best Regards

Steinar

I don't know if European models have this connector. In my US model, the connector was located in a vertical wire harness located on the left side of the glove compartment opening.
 
Ok. Thanks for the response.
I can not find this Connector.
Someone else have some information on this or what else to do?
 
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Any luck Steiner? Got a eu version from sweden, would love this solution in the cold half of the year.
And do anyone know if the 2012 version differs from the 2013 regarding the possibility to install the remote start kit ?

Best regards
 
No. It seems that this is not a option for Europeean models.
But it must be possible to connect it in an other way.

Someone have a suggestion??
 
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Just wanted to ask how other's impression of the range is ? I installed this factory starter about a year ago following Treyp's right up.

The range is very poor. I would say 150 ft at the very most un-obstructed.

Has anyone else been less than satisfied with the range? I believe I left the antenna straight. Not bent at any angle.

I wish this system could be triggered by an aftermarket system. It would be awesome to be able to trigger it with a viper 1-mile.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Just wanted to ask how other's impression of the range is ? I installed this factory starter about a year ago following Treyp's right up.

The range is very poor. I would say 150 ft at the very most un-obstructed.

Has anyone else been less than satisfied with the range? I believe I left the antenna straight. Not bent at any angle.

I wish this system could be triggered by an aftermarket system. It would be awesome to be able to trigger it with a viper 1-mile.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My wife hasn't been able to grab her remote start from her classroom, but if she's in line of sight it will start. She had an aftermarket starter (some DEI, not a Viper) on her previous car that didn't have this issue. The Viper on my truck has fantastic range. Regardless, it's plenty sufficient for what we use it for.

What grinds my gears the most about the whole setup is the remote itself. For the size of it, I feel like it should interface with the stock key. Having two fobs on your key ring is too much. I also think it's ridiculous that you only get a single fob and the replacement is $366. I don't even have a key on my key ring because of the size, so I don't need a starter, but still...

I paid $895 at the dealer as part of the purchase. Part of me wishes I did it myself, but even though I could have easily done it (I had the car apart to put the Homelink mirror in it) tearing into a brand new car wasn't something I felt like doing Day 1.
 
I have tested the range on mine up to approximately 200 feet un-obstructed line of site. I think it would probably work at a longer distance, but I haven't verified it. But, un-obstructed line of site is an important disclaimer. It would not start at approximately 30 feet away when it was completely blocked by my Chevy Suburban.
 
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I have tested the range on mine up to approximately 200 feet un-obstructed line of site. I think it would probably work at a longer distance, but I haven't verified it. But, un-obstructed line of site is an important disclaimer. It would not start at approximately 30 feet away when it was completely blocked by my Chevy Suburban.
I haven't tested the range on mine (it came with the CX5). In the morning if I use it when the car is in the garage attached to the house (yes, I open the garage door), it works well. Some evenings if I go to the health club and use it, it will work, sometimes I get the Er message and it didn't work, sometimes I get the Er message and it worked. When I asked the dealer, he said that's normal. The manual says the same thing. I don't know why it would give the Er message, and then start it.
 
I am having some problems with the final step - i.e. progrramming. Before that, in terms of installation I found it relatively easy - the hood part and the cabin part.
1 tip:
I had trouble getting the ground nut off. The tip is: use a 2nd. nut. The bolt protrudes from back so I attached the ground connector and a 2nd. nut. Tightened it good. No need to take off the bolt!

Registration - even after following all the steps it did not work. Now, every time I am trying the car's dashboard is reporting "Ignition is On" message. This is appearing after the Start button being pressed with the key-fob twice. The car/security light keeps blinking also.
Is there a way to reset everything and start again?

When I use the RS key-fob to start the car, A2 error message is displayed - which as per user manual means registration failure. But, when trying to register - I am having the problem above.
 
The steps - in buletted form

Prerequisites:
1 key fob in car. All doors locked. Hood – closed. Gear in Park. E-brake: OFF.
Steps:
  1. Press the registration button once.
  2. Press and HOLD registration button until LCD display is shown and it beeps.
  3. Immediately, the ECU will reply with 2 long beeps and RS fob with chirp.
  4. NO? Repeat, starting step #1.
  5. Within 4 seconds of complete step #3, touch using the key fob the car’s start button and press twice.
  6. The red security indicator (a car behind a lock) on the car's dash panel should come on solid for a few seconds and then shut off.
  7. NO? Shut the car off and repeat from #1.
  8. After the security indicator shuts off, move the factory fob away from the car's round start button.
  9. Within 4 seconds of completing step #5, press the car's round start button once to shut the car power off.
  10. The red security indicator should flash once (be careful - it flashes very briefly)
  11. No? Repeat from Step #1.
  12. If the ECU makes 2 long beeps and a short one, repeat from step #1.
  13. Within 4 seconds of completing step #9, start and keep pressing the Stop button on the RS Fob until there are TWO set of beeps.
  14. The car ignition status should be automatically set to ON between these 2 sets of beeps. Do NOT release the STOP button after the 1st. set of beep or if you notice ignition status = ON in dashboard.
  15. No? Repeat starting Step #1.
  16. Test the remote starter according to the owner’s manual instructions.
  17. Repeat, starting Step #1, but using the 2nd. Fob. (Make sure to keep the registered key-fob away from car)
 
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I am having some problems with the final step - i.e. progrramming. Before that, in terms of installation I found it relatively easy - the hood part and the cabin part.
1 tip:
I had trouble getting the ground nut off. The tip is: use a 2nd. nut. The bolt protrudes from back so I attached the ground connector and a 2nd. nut. Tightened it good. No need to take off the bolt!

Registration - even after following all the steps it did not work. Now, every time I am trying the car's dashboard is reporting "Ignition is On" message. This is appearing after the Start button being pressed with the key-fob twice. The car/security light keeps blinking also.
Is there a way to reset everything and start again?

When I use the RS key-fob to start the car, A2 error message is displayed - which as per user manual means registration failure. But, when trying to register - I am having the problem above.

Any one?
 

Try to reprogram from the beginning as the instructions state above...

If that does not work, then I would follow any Owners manual instructions for:
Disconnecting vehicle battery and removing the RS fob battery, for resetting electronics and clearing out any stored codes. Then hook up vehicle battery, reinsert RS fob batteries and reprogram fob/vehicle.
 
I too wish the Mazda RS would have only been a replacement for the factory key fobs as well... Makes no sense to have to carry around 2 fobs that perform totally different functions when most other vehicles with RS functionality have a single fob for RS+whatever.

Our prior 2011 Hyundai Tucson that we traded for the CX5 - we also had a factory RS installed - it came with 2 fobs that replaced the original non-RS fobs. So all functions that existed on the original fobs was comingled into the RS fob...

The Mazda RS fob is nice being digital and all - but seriously, there's available tech and super small chips/boards that they could have created a single use fob...
 
Try to reprogram from the beginning as the instructions state above...

If that does not work, then I would follow any Owners manual instructions for:
Disconnecting vehicle battery and removing the RS fob battery, for resetting electronics and clearing out any stored codes. Then hook up vehicle battery, reinsert RS fob batteries and reprogram fob/vehicle.


Finally, finally, finally - got the damn thing programmed. I program for a living and write code already in use in some rather interesting applications. However, this was the most hellish experience. Speed has to be tremendous and BOTH key fobs in 1 go, must be done.

Now, although have installed the hood switch, when I am attempting to start, gives me the dreaded "H" symbol. I double checked wiring, terminal type - have "A", everything, nada, zilch!
 
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