New Throttle Position Sensor??

TxusMSP

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2003 Mazdaspeed Protege Spicy Orange
My car idles below 1,000 RPM now and when I'm driving and I push the clutch all the way in (let's say I'm going from 3rd gear to 4th) and I shift but I leave my clutch in my rpms fall all the way down below a 1,000 and my car just shuts off, when it does do that my check engine light comes on and my battery light comes on but when I start up my car again they both go away, does it sound like I need a new Throttle Position Sensor?? Any help is much appreciated thank you!!
 
Our cars are suppose to idle at 700 and the lights are suppose to come on when it turns off.

But it's not suppose to stall mid shift, it points me toward a faulty idle control valve
 
sounds like the same issue everyone talks about when they throw the car into nuetral after boosting and the car dips low turns lights on and either catches itself or dies. easiest fix relocate your maf.
 
Don't believe so, I believe I have all the upgraded pipings they are black pipes, I put a code reader on it and it gave me the code P0660 which is the VICS Solenoid valve, I asked a mechanic in this shop I work at if that solenoid goes bad would it cause my car to stall and turn off like that and he told me yes if it's bad enough, so I'm thinking of replacing it, just sucks that the part is $98 new, I think it's this because I've had the car for 3 months and have never had this problem with it
 
go to a junk yard and rip the solenoid off another 2.0L protege. the vtcs and vics solenoids are exactly the same. you can probably even find the solenoid on rockauto.com for a lot cheaper if you want it brand new. just bought a new neutral safety switch for $18, dealer wanted $60.xx for it.
 
I have had good luck actually with junkyard solenoids. Plus they are so cheap I have a drawer full if they do fail.
 
Not to bring up the dead, but my car just started doing the same thing where if im going at a faster speed say 45+ and push the clutch in to coast to a stop the rpms goes to 0 and as soon as it hits 0 pops back up to 700 or normal range. No shaking, so sputtering just a smooth up and down. Does this seem like the leak after the MAF like you suggested. Just changed the plugs, wires, coils, cleaned the throttle body and egr valve and it runs great now, other than this. If im going at just a slower around town speed of 20ish, I can push the clutch in and it will drop to normal rpm
 
My car does the same thing except idles all the time so low it barely registers on my gauge. Looks like its somewhere around 200-300 lol I'm guessing its an IAC valve and will replace soon and post my results. Good luck and someone PM me with any other ideas! thanks
 
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