Mazda 5 brakes

markuszoom5

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Mazda 5 Sport
How long have your brakes lasted?
I have almost 36 k on my 2010 MZ5 and is seems that the brakes are still about 50%.
Now there is a lot of shudder when braking from high speeds, but then it feels normal after 40mph or so.
I have had the rotors resurfaced @ about 11k.
I does not bother me much though because I apply my brakes lightly anyways.
And honestly it is what it is, why should I replace brakes because they pulsate a bit?
 
Mine have lasted since I bought the car at 52k miles, and now we're at 91k with plenty of meat left on the pads. I haven't looked replacing rotors/pads yet because I'm just going to swap over to the Mazdaspeed3 setup when I get a chance- but I'm convinced that the crapola brake shudder is possibly from rotors that are either too small or made out of crap material, and definitely from pads that are made out of a really crappy compound. The pads are probably depositing material unevenly on the rotors causing the shake- but that's just a hunch.

Mine shakes the wheel enough from the first high speed stop after some highway driving that you really have to hold the wheel steady to keep from losing your grip- it's bad.
 
My wife keep complaining that her 2010 Mazda5 brake vibrate really bad at certain speed. Every time I rebed the pad it disappear but come back again rather quickly. I agree with phunky.buddha about cheap pad material that keep depositing material unevenly. The pad grab the rotor really hard after you rebed it. It feels like performance pad for a while but it does not last.

I need to find better pads for this car.
 
Just replaced my front pads @79,000 files with HAWK HPS. Didn't turn rotors, just lightly sanded and bedded pads - appear to brake well - a bit worse when cold. No shaking, etc. I bought these pads several years ago, but the oem pads lasted a lot longer than I expected. I try not to brake too much :), probably why the pads lasted so long. They did wear evenly. I noticed the caliber pins had uneven wear - should I replace?
 
What do you mean my caliper pin wear? I've never seen caliper slider pins that needed replacing. Always regrease them when you reassemble.
 
The pins were not smooth with worn areas - I regreased - when I replaced the pads. Most of the grease came off when I pressed them into the hole - but they were dry when I removed them.
 
The pins were not smooth with worn areas - I regreased - when I replaced the pads. Most of the grease came off when I pressed them into the hole - but they were dry when I removed them.
can you show a pic of what/how the "worn" area look like?

Slider pins themselves should not need replacement. What you should be mindful of is that the surface area is completely clean of all gunk. The old grease and rubber deposits from the boot leaves a film that kind of makes it bind to the inner channel of the boots, which you don't want. I used a wheel polish (works like a rubbing compound) and got it to shine like new.

The rubber boots and caps are serviceable items. I can't recall at the momet but I think you might need to disconnect the brake line to have more space to work with. The old boots pull right out with a pair of plyers but can be a tad difficult to insert -use a small/slim flat head and force it in. The problem with old boots is that the old grease and dirt build up leaves a film on the inner channel making the pins less slid-y.(?). If not replacing, ensure the channels are nice and clean and use a high quality grease.
 
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My wife keep complaining that her 2010 Mazda5 brake vibrate really bad at certain speed. Every time I rebed the pad it disappear but come back again rather quickly. I agree with phunky.buddha about cheap pad material that keep depositing material unevenly. The pad grab the rotor really hard after you rebed it. It feels like performance pad for a while but it does not last.

I need to find better pads for this car.
Just replaced my front pads @79,000 files with HAWK HPS. Didn't turn rotors, just lightly sanded and bedded pads - appear to brake well - a bit worse when cold. No shaking, etc. I bought these pads several years ago, but the oem pads lasted a lot longer than I expected. I try not to brake too much :), probably why the pads lasted so long. They did wear evenly. I noticed the caliber pins had uneven wear - should I replace?
I've honestly haven't changed out just pads on a car in about oh... 7 years. I think the last time was on my wife's 88 Civic, and that was with AutoZone mid-grade cheapos, so they still deposited funny and caused vibration even bedded in properly with brand new Brembo rotors. :( I've used Polymatrix Q and D pads with success, but those came with Wilwood Dynalite calipers :D , and I have Stoptech street compound pads on another car now, but those came with pizza pan sized rotors and Stoptech 4 piston calipers too. :D :D The 5 will get MS3 calipers and rotors, so I won't be able to experience better pads in the stock brake configuration. Oh well. In any case, pads matter a LOT. :D :D :D
What do you mean my caliper pin wear? I've never seen caliper slider pins that needed replacing. Always regrease them when you reassemble.
can you show a pic of what/how the "worn" area look like?
Yes, very curious as to how the slider pins look... although if the brakes are already back together, I doubt he took pictures. :( Again, I'm a big supporter of just upgrading brake size when pad replacement comes around. :D
 
Yup, no pictures of slider pins, but it's starting to squeal when I lightly brake - if it doesn't go away, I may be back in there to put more grease on the back of the pads. Any suggestions? It squeals at the end of light to medium braking.
 
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