Haven't had a chance to get it in the air and wiggle the wheel to see if its a wheel bearing, but I wonder if it is possibly something else. Ever since I did my front brakes, front endlinks and front sway bushings, I have had a knock that sounds just like bad sway bushings coming from the right side BUT ONLY when torque is applied. If I cruise over rough roads I get no knocking, but if I accelerate or am holding steady uphill, I will get the knock. Possible its all related? I had a really great suspension shop I had used for 15+ years, but they suddenly shut down & I have nobody I can have RELIABLY diagnose this. I'm about to turn to the dealer unless I can somehow get someone to point me in a possible direction.
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"Grub-grub-grub" sound from RF when cold
- Thread starter thaxman
- Start date
- :
- 2008 Mazda5 GT
Sorry, I lack imagination and can visualize what "grub-grub-grub" sounds like.
Do the wheel wiggle for bearings.
Did you align the pads (new hardware) and grease the caliper pins?
Did you tighten the links/bushings with the car under load? If not, did you retighten?
Do the wheel wiggle for bearings.
Did you align the pads (new hardware) and grease the caliper pins?
Did you tighten the links/bushings with the car under load? If not, did you retighten?
Sorry, I lack imagination and can visualize what "grub-grub-grub" sounds like.
Do the wheel wiggle for bearings.
Did you align the pads (new hardware) and grease the caliper pins?
Did you tighten the links/bushings with the car under load? If not, did you retighten?
The knocking has been around for many months, but the new grinding (vrrubb-vrrubb maybe instead?) is brand new. Happened this week right when the CD changer blew. Add to that the broken right-turn signal stalk and the bad window switch on the driver's door and I am no happy camper - probably $1500+ in parts and labor.
- :
- 2008 Mazda5 GT
The knocking has been around for many months, but the new grinding (vrrubb-vrrubb maybe instead?) is brand new. Happened this week right when the CD changer blew. Add to that the broken right-turn signal stalk and the bad window switch on the driver's door and I am no happy camper - probably $1500+ in parts and labor.
Sorry, I mean to say I canNOT visualize/imagine sounds described with words.
Based on your description, it sounds like this noise came up after the services you performed. I would recheck the work. Is this grinding noise cyclical where frequency changes with speed?
The CD changer/turn stalk/window switch are all cheap parts (check used Mz3 for compatibility) and pretty easy DIY jobs. It won’t go near $1500, unless you take it to a dealer where sky is the limit.
The new grinding noise began only at the end of last week. Came from out of nowhere, except that she hit a curb. Another reason I am leaning toward a rotating piece inside the RF wheel...bearing particularly. If it was already nearly gone, but not making any noise, a nice smack that pushed the bottom edge of the wheel plane in and pushed the top edge out may have been juuuust enough to kill it. Funny thing is, it stops making noise after it warms up, and it seems to be dependent on turning the wheel when 1st leaving in the morning. The dependence on a change in geometry has me thinking towards suspension or the outer CV knuckle though. Wanting a reliable suspension specialist right now...
Could be that the dust shield got bent against the rotor when doing the brakes. Easy to reach under and bend it back if that's the case.
OK, got the front wheels up & attempted to shake them to check for bad bearings. Looks like the hubs are solid, ALTHOUGH when I attempted to rotate each front wheel (one front in the air & the other on the ground) I got some clicking sounds and feelings for the 5-10 degrees or so of rotation I could perform while the other wheel doesn't move. So I don't think its a bad bearing, so I am now officially stumped.
Timeline repeated for brevity:
1) Black Friday, November: new tires. Nothing but improvement, excepting for the continual swaybar knocking that I've had for quite some time.
2) January: new front brakes, end links and swaybar bushings. Almost immediately the RF bushing resumed knocking...but continued observation revealed that the knocking ONLY occurs when either accelerating or when on-throttle. Even so, the knocking only occurs over uneven surfaces as if it was the bad swaybar bushings, but those knock over ALL uneven surface conditions, including of-throttle and deceleration.
3) August: A new sound - the one that brought about this new thread. When departing, one backs the car out of the driveway and turns in the direction of travel and shifts into 1st gear. As the car begins moving in a forward direction, and while partially straightening out the wheel then continuing on with the wheel straight, there is a cyclical rubbing/grinding noise coming from the RF for the 1st several revolutions. Doesn't typically occur when the car has been successfully warmed up.
3) I immediately took the car to Discount Tire & they rotated/rebalanced the wheels. While the car was up, I put my hands on all the parts I replaced and all are solid, also the LCA and strut rubber all look really good and there was no leakage on the struts.
4) today I verified that I cannot rock either front wheel along the camber line, reducing the chance its a bearing.
THOUGHTS??????
Timeline repeated for brevity:
1) Black Friday, November: new tires. Nothing but improvement, excepting for the continual swaybar knocking that I've had for quite some time.
2) January: new front brakes, end links and swaybar bushings. Almost immediately the RF bushing resumed knocking...but continued observation revealed that the knocking ONLY occurs when either accelerating or when on-throttle. Even so, the knocking only occurs over uneven surfaces as if it was the bad swaybar bushings, but those knock over ALL uneven surface conditions, including of-throttle and deceleration.
3) August: A new sound - the one that brought about this new thread. When departing, one backs the car out of the driveway and turns in the direction of travel and shifts into 1st gear. As the car begins moving in a forward direction, and while partially straightening out the wheel then continuing on with the wheel straight, there is a cyclical rubbing/grinding noise coming from the RF for the 1st several revolutions. Doesn't typically occur when the car has been successfully warmed up.
3) I immediately took the car to Discount Tire & they rotated/rebalanced the wheels. While the car was up, I put my hands on all the parts I replaced and all are solid, also the LCA and strut rubber all look really good and there was no leakage on the struts.
4) today I verified that I cannot rock either front wheel along the camber line, reducing the chance its a bearing.
THOUGHTS??????
Did you check your tire pressure? Some tires flat spot when they under inflated. Flat spot usually went away after the tires warm up.
Not tires. Since I don't drive it most of the time, still haven't gotten around to it, but the more I drive it, it appears to be related directly to application of torque. I have a theory that it may be the right side motor mount, but will have to get under it to look. If not, back to the CV joint. I suppose a control arm bushing could be worn through which could cause the arm to rattle against its mount or the frame when torque changes the suspension geometry. Heck, if I think about it long enough, I guess it could be nearly anything that is affected by the changing geometry of the suspension when torque is applied. Why I NEED a suspension guru like ASAP.
- :
- 2008 Mazda5 Touring
Can you spin the wheel with the front end off the ground?
So had a buddy who is an AF motor pool mechanic go for a ride. Backed out of the space, made the turn in the direction my wife takes leaving the house and the wearing sound returned and he immediately said "bearing" but the knocking that occurs only when on-throttle but only over uneven road has him stumped. Going with the bearing and hoping it solves the knocking too. Fingers crossed.
Alright fellow forum members...
Looking to buy bearings.
I can get a pair for between $23 and $39 each + shipping from Rock Auto
or
I can get a pair OE from a local supplier for about $50 each.
The Rock Auto bearings are from (lowest cost to highest) Beck/Arnley, Timkin, National and SKF.
Any input on which bearings will be the best return? Should I just go OE??
Looking to buy bearings.
I can get a pair for between $23 and $39 each + shipping from Rock Auto
or
I can get a pair OE from a local supplier for about $50 each.
The Rock Auto bearings are from (lowest cost to highest) Beck/Arnley, Timkin, National and SKF.
Any input on which bearings will be the best return? Should I just go OE??
Do you mean Timken bearings? I believe Beck/Arnley are resellers - the actual part may be Timken or some other vendor. If it's convenient, and the cost difference is significant, you might check out what is in the Beck/Arnley box. Are you going to do the bearing install yourself?
Do you mean Timken bearings? I believe Beck/Arnley are resellers - the actual part may be Timken or some other vendor. If it's convenient, and the cost difference is significant, you might check out what is in the Beck/Arnley box. Are you going to do the bearing install yourself?
Yeah, think I'm gonna try to get it done myself. A local shop will press the bearings into the hubs. Not sure which will be the bigger problem: possibly screwing it up or smelling like an axle joint for 5 days.
Yeah, think I'm gonna try to get it done myself. A local shop will press the bearings into the hubs. Not sure which will be the bigger problem: possibly screwing it up or smelling like an axle joint for 5 days.
Well, now I know what is the worst part of DIY bearing replacement: screwing it up. Around here it appears I cannot rent a ball joint separator that gently pulls the ball joint away from the spindle, but instead can only get the fork style, which of course is know for tearing the rubber. Same w/the tie rod end separator. So now I will be buying lower control arms at $100+/pop since ball joints are part of the arm and tire rod ends at $20/ea or more.
Brings me to a new question: Anyone know how to tell when the tie rod end is where it should be on the tie rod? Since the rod is threaded for at least 3", I have no real solid way to tell when it is where it should be. Going in too much may toe the wheels out and in too little may toe them in it seems, or will that all be covered when I get my alignment?
Oh, and that bearing is definitely bad. Got the knuckle off and spinning the hub you can hear metal on metal. Lets hope that when its all together all the listed symptoms disappear.
The only good news coming from all this is that I am getting a bit of practice for when I will DIY the Volvo suspension...and that I now have a pretty neat-o impact gun, yippee.
Last edited:
- :
- 2006 Mazda5 Touring
May be too late to be of any help but you want to mark your tie rod where the end should be before you tear apart the assembly. Assuming that your alignment was OK before you tore everything apart. Any little variance will be fixed when they re-align the front end, the mark will at least get you to the alignment shop without destroying your tires. I use a Sharpie marker if i am going to be putting everything right back together. If it may be a day or two use a white paint pen, they are easier to see and more permanent on greasy undercarriage bits than a Sharpie. HTH
May be too late to be of any help but you want to mark your tie rod where the end should be before you tear apart the assembly. Assuming that your alignment was OK before you tore everything apart. Any little variance will be fixed when they re-align the front end, the mark will at least get you to the alignment shop without destroying your tires. I use a Sharpie marker if i am going to be putting everything right back together. If it may be a day or two use a white paint pen, they are easier to see and more permanent on greasy undercarriage bits than a Sharpie. HTH
OK makes sense. I was thinking that already. Was planning on using Teflon tape wrapped around the rod where they meet. Since it is threaded pipe tape should stay on pretty well.
- :
- 2006 Mazda5 Touring
Teflon tape will work as well, just remember which end was which ( as in did the tape mark the far or near side of the tie rod end?) You can get away with an awful lot when it comes to tearing those things apart and putting them back together, as long as you don't drive for three months without getting her re-aligned professionaly. Reading of your travails has almost convinced me to let someone else do this on mine when the time comes LOL Fortuneately it is my LEFT side that is bad not the right....
I'm doing both even tho only the right makes noise. Got the bearings pressed yesterday & they sent the old ones home too. They look BAAAAAD! Neither one looks better than the other, so in my useless unprofessional opinion, if I only did one, it would only be a short time until I went through it all again. This way, I will only be doing a full suspension rebuilt 1X and won't worry about it until the car exceeds 150K (62K now) or I sell it and can hand over proof of all the work I did, which will make the car more desirable and/or valuable.
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