Sho's 2007 MS3

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2007 mazdaspeed 3 GT
Picked up a 2007 Sunlight Silver MS3 GT August 3rd, 2012 after putting 217k miles on my '98 Saturn SL.
I got the MS3 with 25,314 miles on it after spending months searching for the right deal.

This car is my daily driver and gets driven a ton for work (I travel all over the northern part of ohio), so the goal is to mod it safely to better enjoy my routinely long drives for work and also for an autocross or two every year.

I'll be updating this thread as I do things with the car, and hopefully it'll be on the road for a long time!

Current Mods:

Suspension/Braking/Handling:
-Mazdaspeed Accessory Coilovers
-SPC Camber Arms
-Hotchkis 32mm Front and Rear Sway Bars, rear is on stiffest setting
-OEM Mazda Brake Rotors
-Hawk HP+ Front and Rear Brake Pads
-Stock MS6 wheels with 215/45/18 Michelin X-Ice tires


Engine/exhaust goodies:
-Manley Platinum Series 88mm Pistons
-Manley H-Beam Rods
-Autotech HPFP Internals
-HTP 3.5" Intake
-COBB Front Mount Intercooler (red piping and black core)
-Custom 2-piece 3" Catless Vband Downpipe with Top Portion Ceramic Coated
-Secondary O2 Sensor Delete
-Forge V1 Bypass Valve
-Mazdaspeed Accessory Catback Exhaust
-COBB AccessPort v3
-Cp-e Stage 1 75 duro Rear Motor Mount
-PnP Intake Manifold with VTCS Delete
-Sikky Manufacturing Thermal Insulating Intake Manifold Gasket
-James Barone Racing EGR Blockoff
-Kozmic Primary EGR Delete with Coolant Line Plug
-Kozmic Screamer Pipe
-Precision 5858CEA Journal Bearing Turbo with 4" Ported S Compressor and 2.5" Vband Outlet
-Precision 46mm External Wastegate
-Cp-e Vband Exhaust Manifold (Ceramic Coated)
-Cp-e Safe Seal Injector Seals
-James Barone Racing Stage 2 Oil Catch Can
-James Barone Racing 80d Passenger Motor Mount
-DIY Throttle Body Coolant Bypass
-James Barone Racing Thermal Insulating Throttle Body Gasket
-Bosch 3bar MAP sensor
-Grimmspeed 3 Port EBCS
-Perm PCV Plate
-Vented 2nd OCC
-PTP 1950psi Relief Valve
-Tune by Realgib3




As I stated before, I drive alot...here's some mileage intervals to keep track of any issues that may arise:
-8/3/2012 25,314 miles
-10/13/2012 33,333 miles - replaced purge solenoid valve for lean at idle code
-12/19/2012 40,000 miles
-1/29/2013 44,444 miles
-03/20/2013 50,000 miles
-06/27/2013 62,000 miles
-07/24/2013 65,900 miles - front end alignment done to correct inner trear wear on drivers side front tire
-09/29/2013 73,016 - intake valves cleaned
-12/3/2013 80,000 miles
-1/13/2014 83,000 miles
-5/3/2014 95,000 miles - original clutch and flywheel replaced with ACT 6 puck and streetlite flywheel
-7/29/2014 107,663 miles
-12/13/2014 125,700 miles - Valves cleaned, Big Turbo Kit and other stuff installed
-9/5/2015- 161,541 miles- stock long block pulled (still running strong), and replaced with Built motor

Pics!:
Sohan-Mazdaspeed3-Jul04-2013-SAM_0129topaz_zps9ac11c16.jpg


Sohan-Mazdaspeed3-Jul04-2013-SAM_0137-topaz_zps5a2113b3.jpg


thewhip.jpg


DSC02158.jpg
 
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I like your solution better. Or just take the front plate off completely. ;)
 
So from the factory, the headlights on most every ms3 are aimed dangerously low. I aimed mine last night using a guide from the HID Planet forums, and now i can see more than 10ft in front of the car at night!

0725132214b_zpsca3247d7.jpg
 
nice ms3. but doesnt yours have the auto-aiming light switch on the left head side of the steering wheel next to the cluster light dimmer? just wondering since my boy has a 08 ms3 GT also and he has the aiming switch to lower or raise the headlights
 
nice ms3. but doesnt yours have the auto-aiming light switch on the left head side of the steering wheel next to the cluster light dimmer? just wondering since my boy has a 08 ms3 GT also and he has the aiming switch to lower or raise the headlights

Yes, at the highest setting the beam ended about 12 ft in front of the car on flat ground, and at the lowest setting, they were about 4-5 ft in front of the car. The pic above is after correct aiming and with the switch at 0. Now the switch actually has a use, i can bring them down if i have a ton of weight in the back. Before, it didnt matter since each setting was way too low to begin with!
 
I always thought that switch was totally useless as well.
 
Yes, at the highest setting the beam ended about 12 ft in front of the car on flat ground, and at the lowest setting, they were about 4-5 ft in front of the car. The pic above is after correct aiming and with the switch at 0. Now the switch actually has a use, i can bring them down if i have a ton of weight in the back. Before, it didnt matter since each setting was way too low to begin with!

oo ok gotcha. damn, that sucks lol. but good thing you were able to get them aimed correctly.
 
I always thought that switch was totally useless as well.
Yep, without adjustments to aiming...it really was totally useless before!

oo ok gotcha. damn, that sucks lol. but good thing you were able to get them aimed correctly.
Yup, mazda did a good job making it a pain in the ass to pop the covers for the aiming screws off...but otherwise it was simple. Took maybe 10 minutes to get everything lined up properly!
 
Ordered hawk hps brake pads today as well as replacement senders for my.oil temp and pressure gauges.
 
Did some work on the car this week. Tuesday, I replaced the front rotors and also did Hawk HPS brake pads. Last night I put the sandwich plate back on and put in the new oil pressure and oil temp gauges and senders. Ran into a small snag with the wiring, but figured it out fairly easily. Just need to replace the boost gauge sender when I have a little extra cash and hook that back up.

0810132223a_zps9ab516ee.jpg
 
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Looks good man. I like reading about other people's cars but I don't feel like creating my a thread about my car lol
 
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