Fumoto Valve?

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badself

Member
New to this particular thread, but not to the forum. Anyway, I picked up a 2014 "6" GT a couple weeks ago, and have been researching oil and filter for this vehicle. I've decided to stick with genuine Mazda 0W-20 GF-5 with Moly (Mazda part# 0000-G5-0W20-MQ) and a genuine Mazda oil filter (Mazda part# PE-01-14-302). For those using the OE oil pan bolt, the crush washer should be replaced with each oil change (Mazda part#9956-21-800).

I prefer to use the Fumoto valve for my vehicles, but I don't see an application for the 2014 2.5 Skyactiv-G Mazda 6. The closest I've come to a P/N is the 106N with length adapter, though that was for the 2.0 CX-5 Skyactiv-G, and the recommended adapter was not necessary according to that owner. My question: Has anybody installed a Fumoto in their new '14 "6", and if so, was it a 106/106N with or without adapter? I don't really want this to turn into a discussion ito the merit of the valve itself, just a confirmed application for our cars.

Thank you.
 
i too have loved having the fumoto valves on my car. will be ordering one soon. i saw this pic which makes me think you might not need the length adapter (probably the ADP-106 or longer ADL-106 Adapter). the N designation is for Nipple, which should be totally optional/personal preference. the threads are 14mm 1.5

ukjMqUq.jpg
 
biking4jesus said:
i too have loved having the fumoto valves on my car. will be ordering one soon. i saw this pic which makes me think you might not need the length adapter (probably the ADP-106 or longer ADL-106 Adapter). the N designation is for Nipple, which should be totally optional/personal preference. the threads are 14mm 1.5

ukjMqUq.jpg
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response and the image. I assume it's from a '14 "6", and if so, it appears the orientation of the filter is vertical with the ground, in which case the length adapter may actually interfere with the removal of the filter, so I would pass on that. I would go with the F-106N because I prefer the nipple adapter which allows an attachment point to run tubing from the valve to the waste oil container; hence, a much cleaner draining of the used oil. My only "complaint" about the valve is you never really know what position the release lever will end up at rotation-wise when you reach an acceptable torque. One always hopes the release lever ends up facing up and not down toward the ground. The other complaint is the valve does make draining slower than simply removing the OE drain plug, but it's just the nature of the beast. In all my years of buying Fumoto valves, I've never gotten a defective valve or had one fail/leak over time, though it's not unheard of.

BTW, the factory drain plug is 8 mm hex-head.
 
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i still think you might need the short adapter. let us know, cus i will definitely be ordering one.
 
biking4jesus said:
i still think you might need the short adapter. let us know, cus i will definitely be ordering one.
Click to expand...

Upon closer inspection of the oil pan, you might be right about that. The pertruding chin just north of the oil pan plug may be a problem without the adapter, or it may not. I guess there's only one way to know for sure, and that would be a test monkey (so to speak). I recall reading somewhere that a 2.0 Skyactiv CX-5 owner got away without using the adapter. I'm not sure if it's the same oil pan. I guess I could look it up, but even if the pans are interchangable between the 2.0 and the 2.5 Skyactiv's, it still leaves the chin issue as the unknown.
 
1-n-million said:
What is/are benefit/s of this "Fumoto" valve?
Click to expand...

There are lots of threads on this (even in this forum), but basically you can drain your oil without removing an oil pan plug and buying a new crush washer each time, not to mention a novice do-it-yourselfer cross-threading or over-torqing their drain plug. Also, the nippled version of the Fumoto valve allows you to attach a hose to route your used oil cleanly into whatever you use to discard it. The downside is possible failure of the valve in terms of leakage or breaking off while torquing it on, and definitely your oil drains out slower vs. simply removing the OE plug each oil change.

In terms of cross-threading or over-torquing, if those are your strongest reasons for buying a Fumoto valve, perhaps you are best to leave oil changes to the dealer or a service shop. Ultimately, the main reason to buy one is convenience.
 
@badself - did you get one installed yet? i did my first oil change saturday and am not sure that you can use an adapter plus a nippled valve with enough room for the filter to come off.
 
Actually, I've been holding off, hoping somebody else would come up with the answer. I've only seen the set-up in a how-to thread over at the other Mazda 6 (club) forum, not in person. I haven't gotten down there and eyed-it-up, and it's hard to judge just from an image. I don't think the adapter and nippled Fumoto would clear. The question is can the nippled valve without the adapter spin aoround the "chin" that surrounds half the drain plug? Having seen it personally, what do you think? I'd hate to order the valve and nippled adapter and find that (1) the adapter with nippled valve won't clear and (2) the nippled valve without the adapter won't spin around the chin on the oil pan that surrounding half the drain plug. I do recall somebody with a 2.0 CX-5 stating they were able to install the valve without the adapter. Question there being, was it nippled, and is the 2.0 oilpan identical to the 2.5?

Sorry I don't have a definitive answer. I may just do the first oil change with the original plug and crush washer and access it myself. I do recall some source (that eludes me at the moment) stating the overall length of the nippled F106 valve. I may go searching for that. If all that fits is the non-nippled valve (assuming the adapter proves unnecessary), I may have to pass. To me, the nippled valve is what makes the whole deal worth it from a convenience standpoint.
 
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yea i was down there and just used the factory bolt and replaced the washer. i didnt take measurements, but it definitely seems close from the perspective i had under the car. i've had the nipple on my other 2 vehicles w/ fumoto valves, but i wonder, can you just use a nipple-less version? i never hooked up tubing to the nipple anyways. still seems like it will drain nice and clean anyhow. might save some of the space.

think i found your answer- http://www.fumotousa.com/faq.htm

How much does the Engine Oil Drain Valve stick out from the oil pan? Is it safe to use the N-Type valve (with Nipple) for cars and light trucks?
A. The Drain Valve for passenger cars and light trucks is approximately 7/8" thick. This means that the valve sticks out only 1/2" more than the regular plug head from the oil pan. The Nipple on the N-Type Valve extends from the valve for 5/8". We do not recommend using the N-Type valve for vehicles with low clearance, as the valve may stick out too far against the ground.
 
FYI, just in case there are still those that are wondering if a Fumoto F-106 would work, I installed one today with no issues. No adapter necessary. I can't speak for the the F-106N version but the F106 works perfectly.

-Moto
 

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There's a bunch of F106's without the "N"... which one did you get specifically?
F106S(A), F106S(B), F106S(R), F106S, F106SW?

Edit: Nevermind, I found the regular F106.
 
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