He wants a cold air intake. That's his choice and it was mine. Now, he would not have the problem with his IC plumbing with a SRI, I agree. But it is, with respect, ignorant of physics to conclude that because the intake charge goes through a hot turbo that the beginning intake temp at the filter does not matter.
If plumbing simplicity for a FMIC is the issue, I agree. If performance in traffic snarled stop and go commute traffic is the issue, I strongly disagree. There is a direct degree for degree correlation between intake air temp and post IC boost air temp. For every degree of increase in IAT, BAT will also go up one degree. Every 10 degree increase in BAT will cost you 1% of your wheel hp.
I have conclusively proven and posted the proof that sitting at idle for 3 minutes raises under hood temps by 30 degrees. Five minutes can raise it a whopping 60-70 degrees under there.
While it is true that these differences disappear once you are underway, the evidence is that it takes 15 to 30 seconds to equalize. When pulling away from a traffic jam or long line of traffic where you had to sit through several red lights in daily commute it makes a very noticeable difference.
Just saying the science favors CAI for extended commuting in heavy traffic.
OP don't listen to the ignorance. I don't know if your combo will work. There are threads in the section on forced induction, so you might want to search there.
Finally DC Sports is not well recognized or supported in the Mazdaspeed community. It is not well engineered or constructed. Consider one of the brands frequently mentioned in the forced induction section of this forum, such as AEM or K&N.
