oil problems

PCB, I got the same part number for both the 626 and 929 in the pureone filter tough. I saw the fram ultras/tough guard filter are about $5 from rockauto.
 
You don't think that doing it this way will cause uneven soaking? I mean some pistons are up and some are down. I was thinking that when I do mine next time I do an oil change I will disconnect the fuel pump and start the engine to have it use up all the fuel in the line and then crank over the engine every hour or so for several hours just to have this stuff spread through the entire motion range of the piston as it soaks.

I don't think it will soak uneven, as the seafoam settles on top of the piston where ever it is in its stroke. I just thought the sides of the pistons where the rings and oil drain holes are my only concern, not the cylinder walls. That's why I'm not wanting to have the seafoam move around in the piston motion range.

Also the car will not want to start at first with the seafoam in there, it will the second time. No need to suck out the excess, as it burns off just as it would if you put it into a vacuum line.
 
I went to the Fram website to compare different oil filters ( http://www.fram.com/ )

Theses are the specs for the stock P5 filter: Part Number TG6607

Product Type Tough Guard Lube Filter
Anti-Drain Valve YES
Gasket I.D. 2.27"
Gasket O.D. 2.53"
Gasket Thickness .2"
Gasket Usage Base
Product Height 2.63"
Product I.D. 20mm x 1.5mm Th'd
Product O.D. 2.69"
Relief Valve Setting PSI 13


These are the specs for the 2002 Mazda 626 V6 (in 20003 they switched to the Mazda 6, with a different engine and oil filter) : Part Number HM7317

Product Type High Mileage Oil Filter
Anti-Drain Valve YES
Gasket I.D. 2.22"
Gasket O.D. 2.48"
Gasket Thickness .28"
Gasket Usage Base
Product Height 3.47"
Product I.D. 20mm x 1.5mm Th'd
Product O.D. 2.69"
Relief Valve Setting PSI 13


The 1990 Mazda 929 oil filter has these specs: * * Part Number HM3593A

Product Type High Mileage Oil Filter
Anti-Drain Valve YES
Gasket I.D. 2.13"
Gasket O.D. 2.42"
Gasket Thickness .2"
Gasket Usage Base
Product Height 3.39"
Product I.D. 20mm x 1.5mm Th'd
Product O.D. 3.02"
Relief Valve Setting PSI 12


It looks like the 929 filter is the biggest. I don't think the gasket dimensions matter because the mating surface on the engine has quite a bit of room for a different size gasket. The 929 filter is 1/3" "fatter" than our stock or the 626 filter which may be an issue if the filter is stuck upon removal and you need to use a filter wrench on it. The 929 filter has a blow-by rating of 12 PSI as compared to the 13 PSI of the stock filter which is close enough in my opinion.

The 929 filter appears to be a VERY common filter on earlier vehicles so it should be easy to find at a good price.

The 929 one i always get is from the dealer and I have been using the same filter type for over 10 years. I started using it on my old 1990 Protege before I got this one and It has been working nothing short of great. Been extending my length of time on the oil too. And when i replaced my valve cover gasket a few yeas ago I saw the cams and valve springs had no sludge build up or anything . they looked new. The original 929 filter looks very similar to the stock one except its longer. the gasket seems to be the same. what I would like to find is even longer one because the clearance is not a big problem for us since we need to get under the car to take the filter off anyway. Are you able to get the threading on the filters?
 
I don't think it will soak uneven, as the seafoam settles on top of the piston where ever it is in its stroke. I just thought the sides of the pistons where the rings and oil drain holes are my only concern, not the cylinder walls. That's why I'm not wanting to have the seafoam move around in the piston motion range.

Also the car will not want to start at first with the seafoam in there, it will the second time. No need to suck out the excess, as it burns off just as it would if you put it into a vacuum line.
oh ok. When im ready to do it I will try my method and see if there will be any problems. I wont be doing this till the fall anyway so I will have to wait to find out.
 
Are you able to get the threading on the filters?

Yes,.. they are all 20mm x 1.5mm Thread.

What I would like to find is even longer one because the clearance is not a big problem for us since we need to get under the car to take the filter off anyway.

I figure the only things to consider is the threaded hole and the gasket size. The gasket can be quite a bit off from the stock one because the surface it seals against is quite large. I don't think the blow-by PSI is too important as long as it's within a couple of PSI of the original.
 
PCB, I got the same part number for both the 626 and 929 in the pureone filter tough. I saw the fram ultras/tough guard filter are about $5 from rockauto.

I went back to the FRAM website and clicked through the years for the 626.

The 626 uses the **3593A filter from 1983 until 1992. The 626 switched to the **7317 for 1993 and 1994. In 1995 the 2 liter engine uses the **6607 but the V6 kept using the **7317 until 2002 when the 626 was discontinued.

This is a link to all the cars that use the XG, TG, HM or PH 3593A FRAM oil fiters : http://www.framcatalog.com/PartDetailWindow.aspx?b=F&pn=TG3593A
 
PCB, I just thought it was funny that fram uses slightly different filters while purolator uses the same one.
 
So I did a piston soak last night using seafoam, very easy to do and am presently surprised with my already noticeable outcome. Originally I planned to do this because my pro5 was consuming 1 qt of oil every 500-1000 miles. I pulled the spark plugs out and checked the electrodes, they looked suited but no oil on them (only 1 week old). I then took a flashlight and looked down the spark plug holes and found that cylinder 4 had oil sitting on top of the piston. Same cylinder that sucked up a VICS bolt from my intake manifold twice. I have a feeling there are some relation to my oil consumption and the bolt. however I’ve already noticed a better throttle response and slight increase in hp. I’ll keep chiming in on oil consumption to let you know if it’s got any better.
 
So I did a piston soak last night using seafoam, very easy to do and am presently surprised with my already noticeable outcome. Originally I planned to do this because my pro5 was consuming 1 qt of oil every 500-1000 miles. I pulled the spark plugs out and checked the electrodes, they looked suited but no oil on them (only 1 week old). I then took a flashlight and looked down the spark plug holes and found that cylinder 4 had oil sitting on top of the piston. Same cylinder that sucked up a VICS bolt from my intake manifold twice. I have a feeling there are some relation to my oil consumption and the bolt. however I’ve already noticed a better throttle response and slight increase in hp. I’ll keep chiming in on oil consumption to let you know if it’s got any better.

How is your oil consumption going?

Mine is doing good it seems, I over filled it slightly due to using the bigger filter for the first time. I have done a second piston soak and it seems to have lessen my smoking on start up. The only problem with my report is I have only 600 miles on this procedure so I can't say for sure if it is working yet.

One a side note, when I looked down my valve cover from the oil fill opening, it was very brown with oil tarnish. This could be the reason or indicator for the piston drain holes being blocked.
 
Sorry for the delay, I've been busy with work. I've only put a few hundred miles on my car sense the last post and can't give an accurate loss of oil. Sadly I'm battling with a new issue, fuel pump is leaking.. After i change my oil and alter it to a thicker viscosity ill report back with my findings.
 
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i never saw a response from big d. I'm having the same problem, but my twist is i have a new engine. i haven't even been 3 thousand miles and have had to add 2 qts. The pcv valve was changed also. the car isn't smoking, it runs great. just want to figure out where the oil is going. i bought the car with a knocking engine. and with the way it is losing oil i'm beginning to think thats why it spun a rod. it's not like the car holds alot of oil to begin with and when you lose a qt every couple of weeks, the average person doesn't even check there oil that often. Would like to hear if anyone has found the culprit. alot of post on issue but no answers
 
i never saw a response from big d. I'm having the same problem, but my twist is i have a new engine. i haven't even been 3 thousand miles and have had to add 2 qts. The pcv valve was changed also. the car isn't smoking, it runs great. just want to figure out where the oil is going. i bought the car with a knocking engine. and with the way it is losing oil i'm beginning to think thats why it spun a rod. it's not like the car holds alot of oil to begin with and when you lose a qt every couple of weeks, the average person doesn't even check there oil that often. Would like to hear if anyone has found the culprit. alot of post on issue but no answers
Hey man so I never really found out lol mine has miles and have learned to live with it. Wow this post is old. But for your problem something is definitely wrong if you go through that much oil on a new engine. Of take it in somewhere. Has to be smoking or leaking to lose that much. Mine sits in the garage these fays
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... Would like to hear if anyone has found the culprit. alot of post on issue but no answers

You've probably got this going on...

Screenshot_2016-06-11-00-32-40_zpsaoywbsuj.png


You can burn A LOT of oil before seeing any visible smoke.

Your oil rings are probably half seized...
(you'll fog up the whole neighborhood when they're fully seized)
 
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