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Thread: Bank 1 & Bank 2 Oxygen Sensors

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    You should just install your new O2 sensor...
    The computer knows if your old heater is burned out... No current flow...
    I'm sure you can be more than 95% sure the new sensor will fix your problem... It's like a burned out bulb.
    Stop far tin around and be done with it... O2 sensors do wear out...
    i decided to take that advice and stop far tin around, unfortunately Canadian Tire ordered the wrong part for me They ordered a downstream (post-cat) sensor.

    Does anyone know if the upstream and downstream sensors are interchangeable? I read somewhere that the only difference between the two is that the cable is a different length...is there any truth to that?

    Sadly, if I go with the upstream, they're asking $135 for an NGK, $175 if I want a Denso i don't mind ordering from the Internet as long as it's returnable...I'd rather just use what Canadian tire ordered me (the downstream) and be done With it, so if anyone knows if these two parts are interchangeable, lemme kno ya?

  2. #17
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

    2002 mazda protege 5

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    Quote Originally Posted by mark2000 View Post
    i decided to take that advice and stop far tin around, unfortunately Canadian Tire ordered the wrong part for me :... so if anyone knows if these two parts are interchangeable, lemme kno ya?
    Almost positive they are not the same part... (or they would list them as such)

    Rock auto is great for shipping to Canada...

    Last edited by pcb; 03-29-2017 at 08:24 PM.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    Almost positive they are not the same part...

    Rock auto is great for shipping to Canada...
    actually, it's funny that you mention rock auto. I was just looking up parts there in the last hour or so and I can get the walker upstream sensor and the socket to install it for about 60 bucks Canadian delivered. That's pretty amazing. I always assumed it rock auto was one of those places that charged minimum $50 shipping to Canada and made you pay asinine duties and taxes on top of that. I think I'll stop far tin around and get the Walker part and go that route, unless walkers are sh#%tty parts?

  4. #19
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by mark2000 View Post
    ...and get the Walker part and go that route, unless walkers are sh#%tty parts?
    The Walker's are "hearted" meaning lots of people ordered them.

    If they were crap, and all being returned, Rock auto would stop selling them ..

  5. #20
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by mark2000 View Post
    .... and the socket to install it for about 60 bucks Canadian delivered.
    You don't really need the socket... Just cut the wire of the old sensor and use a regular socket to remove it. (rusted/seized, what have you)

    Then use a normal adjustable wrench or adjustable pliers to install the new one. (to not pinch the wire)...

    Ya don't need the fancy socket with the slit...

    Last edited by pcb; 03-29-2017 at 09:05 PM.

  6. #21
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    I know but the thing is I don't have a wrench that's the right size for this anyway, so I would have had to order something that fit. My biggest concern will be getting all the bolts off and the sensor out due to age and rust. This is a car parked outside, very rusty. I am gonna buy PB blaster and let it sit for a night but beyond that, if I cant get the old one out, I'll have to go to a mechanic. Is it a bad idea to lightly tap the edges of the sensor with a hammer and screwdriver to try and loosen it up?

    I tried to do my own ABS sensor replacement but it was just too rusty, and all I had on me was WD40. Even the mechanic was hammering and cutting away to get the old bolts off for the ABS sensor...I'm expecting a similar challenge for the oxygen sensor.

  7. #22
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    Protege5

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    IIRC it's a 22mm or 7/8".

    If it's been on there a long time, best thing you can do is cut the wire, break off the stem, and use a deep 6 point impact socket. The slit sockets are really only good for installation, they like to spread and round off the sensor.
    2002 Protege5 5 Speed, Pure White, FSZE Swap, Konig Incident 17's
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  8. #23
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    I just wanted to update and thank everyone for their help, and hopefully this post will help any other amateurs that might have this issue.

    Using ScanTool for Windows with an ELM327 interface, I identified a code as P0031. After ordering the replacement oxygen sensor from Rockauto, extremely fast shipping, about 2-3 days, I proceeded to install it. To rule out the problem being the sensor, I connected the new sensor to the plug without installing it into the manifold, reset the codes, and started the car and revved the engine a bit. The code did not return, likely indicating the original sensor was indeed busted.

    The biggest problem for amateurs like myself, I believe, tends to be the "related" issues, like rusty bolts. I proceeded to remove the air intake snorkel, but only the left screw was coming out. I manage to strip the right one unfortunately I only had WD40 on hand. Luckily! You do not need to remove the air intake for this job completely, I was able to just move it out of the way enough that I could access the sensor easily.

    Then, using the sensor removal socket piece, I was able to remove the sensor, after spraying WD40. It would not budge without the spray. Also, the advantage of the tool, was that I was able to easily remove the old sensor without removing the heat shield!!! Having to remove that would have been very difficult with basic tools, as all the bolts looked very seized.

    After removing the old sensor and screwing the new one in, and clamping it down so that the wire didn't get into the cooling fan, I restarted the car and cleared codes with ScanTool. After a drive around the block, the code did not return.

    Thanks to everyone for their advice. Now let's see what the next problem is,
    It seems to be one after another these past few months!

  9. #24
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    2003 Protoge 5 @ 185K

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    2003 Proto5 PreCat removed and replaced with Headers, Coils, plugs,MAF, EGR all replaced, This beat the p0421 /p0300 that it was throwing, but it was still sluggish.

    Daughters BF finally got the EGR tube hooked up to the headers and it ran great for several months, the hesitation was all gone.

    Then the p0300 came back last week with a blinking CEL and a VERY nasty misfire.

    I hooked up my scan tool and I see the downstream 02 sensor thrashing back and forth

    Upstream o2 sensor jumps up and down quite nicely from .9v to .1v as expected

    Downstream o2 sensor slowly climbs from .5v up to 1.06 volts, and then starts to thrash up and down going from .8 to Zero volts every few seconds.I

    Here is a picture of the data charted out.


    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6YT6w-W3lCheTZPd01MUmlkMDQ/view


    Do you think this downstream 02 sensor is good or bad?

    EDIT: I'm considering trying the stacked spacer (non Fouler) solution for the downstream 02. thoughts?
    Last edited by damien381; 10-09-2017 at 03:10 PM.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by damien381 View Post
    2003 Proto5 PreCat removed and replaced with Headers, Coils, plugs,MAF, EGR all replaced, This beat the p0421 /p0300 that it was throwing, but it was still sluggish.

    Daughters BF finally got the EGR tube hooked up to the headers and it ran great for several months, the hesitation was all gone.

    Then the p0300 came back last week with a blinking CEL and a VERY nasty misfire.

    I hooked up my scan tool and I see the downstream 02 sensor thrashing back and forth

    Upstream o2 sensor jumps up and down quite nicely from .9v to .1v as expected

    Downstream o2 sensor slowly climbs from .5v up to 1.06 volts, and then starts to thrash up and down going from .8 to Zero volts every few seconds.I

    Here is a picture of the data charted out.


    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6YT6w-W3lCheTZPd01MUmlkMDQ/view


    Do you think this downstream 02 sensor is good or bad?

    EDIT: I'm considering trying the stacked spacer (non Fouler) solution for the downstream 02. thoughts?
    If you think that's the cause of the misfire, look elsewhere. The post cat 02 is only there to determine if the pre-cat is functional.

    The non fouler trick worked for me.

    Get it running right before you try to determine if the 02 sensors are working.

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