Mod: Convert center-console 12V socket to Switched (Accessory) operation

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2014 & 2019 CX-5 Touring(s)
As per other threads on this, it's always seemed weird to me that the center console 12V accessory socket is 'always on' when the front one switches on and off with the ignition. This mod is a simple way to convert the socket to switched operation via a fuse tap and wire in the underhood fuse block.

WARNING! PLEASE NOTE:
  • I take no responsibility for this mod being wrong, poorly described or for any reason damaging you or your car.
  • You could seriously damage your car's wiring if this goes wrong. Do not attempt unless you are sure you can handle it!
  • This description and these photos are for a 2014 CX-5 Touring without Tech or Bose packages. Your car may differ.

OK, you've decided to continue? First, what you'll need:
  • Mini ATM Fuse tap (such as Bussmann 'BP/HHH ATM Add-A-Fuse'). Available at parts stores, Amazon, etc.
  • 15A and 7.5A mini-ATM fuses (ditto)
  • Spare mini-ATM fuse (may be old, burnt out)
  • Length of automotive wire, ~6-8 inches long
  • Soldering supplies, shrink wrap

Basically, what we'll be doing here is vampiring off the accessory-switched radio circuit to supply the center console socket, instead of it using its default always-on supply.

Start with the old/spare mini-ATM fuse (amp rating doesn't matter). If the fuse is not already blown, drill a hole through the fusable link in the middle to make sure the two legs are disconnected (THIS IS IMPORTANT!). I drilled up vertically from the bottom, but through the side is fine too. Verify the legs are disconnected from each other. Then use a Dremel or a sharp knife to grind/cut the plastic off the top both sides of one of the legs, so you can solder the wire to it. You should have something looking like this:

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Take your piece of wire (make sure it's heavy enough gauge to carry the 12V socket current, ~14-16 AWG) and solder the end to the bared top of the fuse leg:

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Unfortunately, the wire from the fuse tap is not long enough to reach the socket fuse, which is why we need the extra piece of wire. Here's the fuse block with arrows showing where we're placing all this stuff. Take your fuse tap and soldered fuse+wire and measure and cut it to length, so when you solder the wire together it will reach without too much slack (see the 'finished' photos in Post #2, to see where we're going with this). Remember: measure twice, cut once!

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OK, now cut off the ends of the fuse tap wire and your spare wire and solder them together. Don't forget to slide on piece(s) of shrink-wrap first! If you don't have shrink wrap, you could insulate with tape, but not recommended.

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Final construction, shrink wrapped and the replacement mini-ATM fuses inserted. Note the positioning and ratings of the fuses:

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[CONTINUED] Lastly, remove the old low-profile fuses (stick them in the fuse box cover as spares) and insert the fuse tape and soldered fuse. NOTE THE POSITION AND ORIENTATION CAREFULLY!! If you get this wrong, you can connect the switched to non-switched supplies together and drain your battery, or even melt wiring and cause a fire. You don't want your nice new car to burn to the ground, do you?

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Another view from a different angle, just to be sure & safe:

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That's it! Now you can plug your charger in inside the console and forget it, without risking draining your battery. Yay.

OPTIONAL: if you cannot solder, then you could do this with crimp connectors, maybe, and a seconf fuse tap - though not sure it would fit the right way round. Really, I wouldn't recommend this though.
 

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UPDATE: If you route the wire the same way I did, you'll need to do an additional step. Seems the clearance between the top and the bottom tray of the fuse holder is a little tighter than I thought and in one place it squeezes the wire. To avoid issues down the road, you'll need to cut a notch in the place shown for the wire to lie in. Either cut a "V" with a sharp knife, or better still, file a U shape with a small rat-tail file. The plastic is fairly soft, so this is easy (move the wire out the way first! :))

See photo...

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The outlet needs to be able to handle 15A + 7.5A. Just wondering if it can handle it...
 
I like having a power point that's always hot. In the past, I've done just the opposite mod to some of my cars. A power point that is always hot is very useful for stuff like charging a phone when the car is off.
 
Funny but my Australian CX-5 (built July 2013) has all sockets switched which is a bit annoying, like for the reason above. Anyone know why they build them differently in different countries? I'd really like to find a simple fix to make the centre or rear sockets always on but haven't managed to find a schematic for the Oz model. Best I can come with is a bypass of the outlet relay.
 
very nice. I had considered this and thought I would have to pull the wire out of the back of the fusebox. this is much more elegant (and reversible)

I assume this is also possible for changing the rear hatch 12v socket to switched?
any idea which fuse handles the rear 12v socket?
 
Sorry, I'm out of town right now so can't look it up. You should be able to find the fuse for the rear socket in the fuse list, but I have a feeling it may be in the driver footwell fuse box. Still, same method should work.
 
As per other threads on this, it's always seemed weird to me that the center console 12V accessory socket is 'always on' when the front one switches on and off with the ignition. This mod is a simple way to convert the socket to switched operation via a fuse tap and wire in the underhood fuse block.

WARNING! PLEASE NOTE:
  • I take no responsibility for this mod being wrong, poorly described or for any reason damaging you or your car.
  • You could seriously damage your car's wiring if this goes wrong. Do not attempt unless you are sure you can handle it!
  • This description and these photos are for a 2014 CX-5 Touring without Tech or Bose packages. Your car may differ.

OK, you've decided to continue? First, what you'll need:
  • Mini ATM Fuse tap (such as Bussmann 'BP/HHH ATM Add-A-Fuse'). Available at parts stores, Amazon, etc.
  • 15A and 7.5A mini-ATM fuses (ditto)
  • Spare mini-ATM fuse (may be old, burnt out)
  • Length of automotive wire, ~6-8 inches long
  • Soldering supplies, shrink wrap

Basically, what we'll be doing here is vampiring off the accessory-switched radio circuit to supply the center console socket, instead of it using its default always-on supply.

Start with the old/spare mini-ATM fuse (amp rating doesn't matter). If the fuse is not already blown, drill a hole through the fusable link in the middle to make sure the two legs are disconnected (THIS IS IMPORTANT!). I drilled up vertically from the bottom, but through the side is fine too. Verify the legs are disconnected from each other. Then use a Dremel or a sharp knife to grind/cut the plastic off the top both sides of one of the legs, so you can solder the wire to it. You should have something looking like this:

attachment.php



Take your piece of wire (make sure it's heavy enough gauge to carry the 12V socket current, ~14-16 AWG) and solder the end to the bared top of the fuse leg:

attachment.php



Unfortunately, the wire from the fuse tap is not long enough to reach the socket fuse, which is why we need the extra piece of wire. Here's the fuse block with arrows showing where we're placing all this stuff. Take your fuse tap and soldered fuse+wire and measure and cut it to length, so when you solder the wire together it will reach without too much slack (see the 'finished' photos in Post #2, to see where we're going with this). Remember: measure twice, cut once!

attachment.php



OK, now cut off the ends of the fuse tap wire and your spare wire and solder them together. Don't forget to slide on piece(s) of shrink-wrap first! If you don't have shrink wrap, you could insulate with tape, but not recommended.

attachment.php



Final construction, shrink wrapped and the replacement mini-ATM fuses inserted. Note the positioning and ratings of the fuses:

attachment.php

Worked perfectly on my friend's CX-5 , thanks!! what was Mazda thinking ??? making center 12V socket always on??? so stupid, it'll drain the battery,

much appreciated for the write up
 
I think an easier solution would be to place a relay in-line with the power wire for the center console socket, that gets activated (switched) by the Accessory operation, such as the front 12V socket.
 
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