Bearing Replacement With Video

While installing the big c-clip in the hub, I slipped and put a dent in the seal on my new bearing. I decided to try to straighten it out and the whole "seal" popped off. I wasn't impressed with what I saw. The "seal" was nothing more than a dust cap. It was just a flat ring with a bead of rubber on either side. (I forgot to take a picture)

That "seal" isn't going to do squat and I'm fully expecting to have to redo my bearings again in a year or two. I decided to cake both seals with grease before installing it on the car. I know it will attract dust and dirt but I think it will help create a better water barrier.

This is a picture of the old bearings seal. It is a much better design. The metal ring is press fit to the inner race and the rubber part is seated on the outer race. The entire rubber surface rotates on the metal part and there is a stainless steel coil spring to keep the rubber seal tight on the metal ring.



The rust did invade the old bearing eventually (it lasted at least 4 years,... since I bought the car) but it didn't fail until the rust swelled the outside of the ring warping the rubber inside and breaking the seal.

This is yet another example of cheap Ebay crap that isn't up to snuff. (It has the right part number and is listed as a "premium" bearing with a 3 year warranty). I should have spent the extra $30 and bought the SKF bearings from Rockauto (it's the only one that is listed as "sealed",... I'm sure it has a proper seal in it).

This is way too big a job to skimp on parts.

I thought I'd repost a bunch of pictures from my thread after Photobucket deleted them all...

Mine have started roaring pretty bad too, new bearings should be here today. I also ordered one of the tool sets that supposedly allow you to do it on-vehicle without removing the knuckle ($66 on Amazon) so will see how that goes. If I have to remove the knuckle, so be it no big deal but have seen these kits and would like to see how well it works. Worst case I'll just press it like normal.

I think it's the pass side but the noise is too loud to tell for sure so i'll just do both sides at the same time. Over 250k miles on the car now, and given it's the first "repair" i've ever had to do on the car (aside from the timing belt, which is really more of a maintenance type of thing) I can't really complain too much. The tool cost more than both bearings combined lol

I don't think you're going to have any luck with that tool.
Our bearings, axles, hubs and knuckles get unbelievably seized.

Just getting the axle out of hub can take a ten pound sledgehammer and wreck the axle.

One guy almost broke his 12 ton press trying to press out the bearing... When it finally let go, it went off like a gunshot.
Jackie Chan was pounding on a big socket he was using as an extractor tool when it exploded and he got shrapnel in his leg that needed surgery.

Some mechanics include the price of a new CV shaft in their quote... They don't even bother trying to take it apart. They just cut the shaft and remove the whole knuckle and take it to the machine shop.

You're gonna need big tools and fire...

pcb said:

I don't think you're going to have any luck with that tool.
Our bearings, axles, hubs and knuckles get unbelievably seized.

Just getting the axle out of hub can take a ten pound sledgehammer and wreck the axle.

One guy almost broke his 12 ton press trying to press out the bearing... When it finally let go, it went off like a gunshot.
Jackie Chan was pounding on a big socket he was using as an extractor tool when it exploded and he got shrapnel in his leg that needed surgery.

Some mechanics include the price of a new CV shaft in their quote... They don't even bother trying to take it apart. They just cut the shaft and remove the whole knuckle and take it to the machine shop.

You're gonna need big tools and fire...

Click to expand...

I'll let you know how it goes. I really don't anticipate any problems to be honest. You forget, we don't have snow or salt or any of that down here. I've never once had to put heat to anything to get it to break loose on anything i've worked on. And i've taken on some pretty run-down projects that have been sitting in the bushes for 10 years. There isn't a single spot of rust anywhere underneath my car anywhere... Hell, I rebuilt a 1987 Honda 250R 4wheeler not too long ago that's been through WAY more than my car could ever dream of, and there wasn't a spot of rust anywhere on that either (aside from the typical surface stuff on the muffler and exhaust pipe that you can whizz off with a wire brush). Though, now that i've jinxed myself lol I can always press it the old fashioned way if I need to, I have everything I need... I just want to see how well this thing works. I've seen them for a while just never tried one; I know some people swear by them so we'll see

It's not really a rust thing, my parts came off pretty clean. The splines on my axles were shiny metal.
It's more of a Mazda thing,.. I remember a mechanic at work looking at my '84 GLC.. He said he didn't wanna do my damn Mazda bearings...


Anyway,... Is this the tool you're talking about ??

pb4ugotobed said:

I'll let you know how it goes. I really don't anticipate any problems to be honest. You forget, we don't have snow or salt or any of that down here. I've never once had to put heat to anything to get it to break loose on anything i've worked on. And i've taken on some pretty run-down projects that have been sitting in the bushes for 10 years. There isn't a single spot of rust anywhere underneath my car anywhere... Hell, I rebuilt a 1987 Honda 250R 4wheeler not too long ago that's been through WAY more than my car could ever dream of, and there wasn't a spot of rust anywhere on that either (aside from the typical surface stuff on the muffler and exhaust pipe that you can whizz off with a wire brush). Though, now that i've jinxed myself lol I can always press it the old fashioned way if I need to, I have everything I need... I just want to see how well this thing works. I've seen them for a while just never tried one; I know some people swear by them so we'll see

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I'm not in the rust belt either, but my axles would not come free when I did my engine swap.. Had to pick up the engine and yank them out of the diff.

I was able to get one out when I had to replace the wheel bearing on that side. It took a 5lb drilling hammer to get it out, and the axle was almost mushroomed beyond repair, but I was able to clean it up with a die grinder.

Best bet is a 3 jaw puller and a stout rattle gun. Wish I had one at the time.

Not sure what the deal is, the axles on my past Toyotas would have slid out with a strong breeze. Some GM cars are bad about it too.

I didn't have any problems. Changed both fronts in about 3 hours. First one went pretty quick but 2nd one took a little longer, I attribute that to the 2nd glass of maker's mark... and the puppy i kept tripping over so she had to leave the shop lol.

The press kit I got is similar to what you posted, but "TMS" brand. It was $66 on Amazon and got a bunch of good reviews. Honestly it looks exactly like about every other kit on there, probably the same company in China that manufactures it for 20 different "brands". I just picked this one because it got here quicker with Prime than the others lol. If you don't have a shop press all you need is a decent bench vise and it would work great. I don't know that I will use it much because I do have a press, but I like the assortment of the race drivers that come with the kit. It has several sizes that didn't come in my other kit, plus they're pretty heavy duty (this kit weighs a TON in the case) and the discs will work great in the press. Also has several smaller sizes I will be able to use in ATV's and stuff too

Axles were a little tight but came out without much issue. Here's a tip that may make it a little easier on you next time and save you from the mushroom effect... Unscrew the axle nut just a few threads so it's about 1/8" away from the hub. Take the socket off your ratchet and put it on the nut, then hit the socket (not the axle or the nut). A couple good whacks with a dead blow and it will seat the nut against the hub again. Remove it a few more threads and repeat until it is free. Only doing a few threads at a time will minimize the risk of stretching the threads on the nut, especially if it is stiff.

And the bearing press kit worked great. I did remove the knuckle anyway to beat out the hub assembly but really it's just 3 bolts so not a big deal. Using a socket and a hammer, 2 solid whacks and it flew across the shop; i didn't expect it to come out that easily lol. I could have probably used a puller or maybe hit it from behind while on the car (because it really didn't take much to slide the hub out), but it was just as easy to remove it.

pb4ugotobed said:

I didn't have any problems. Changed both fronts in about 3 hours. First one went pretty quick but 2nd one took a little longer, I attribute that to the 2nd glass of maker's mark... and the puppy i kept tripping over so she had to leave the shop lol.

The press kit I got is similar to what you posted, but "TMS" brand. It was $66 on Amazon and got a bunch of good reviews. Honestly it looks exactly like about every other kit on there, probably the same company in China that manufactures it for 20 different "brands". I just picked this one because it got here quicker with Prime than the others lol. If you don't have a shop press all you need is a decent bench vise and it would work great. I don't know that I will use it much because I do have a press, but I like the assortment of the race drivers that come with the kit. It has several sizes that didn't come in my other kit, plus they're pretty heavy duty (this kit weighs a TON in the case) and the discs will work great in the press. Also has several smaller sizes I will be able to use in ATV's and stuff too

Axles were a little tight but came out without much issue. Here's a tip that may make it a little easier on you next time and save you from the mushroom effect... Unscrew the axle nut just a few threads so it's about 1/8" away from the hub. Take the socket off your ratchet and put it on the nut, then hit the socket (not the axle or the nut). A couple good whacks with a dead blow and it will seat the nut against the hub again. Remove it a few more threads and repeat until it is free. Only doing a few threads at a time will minimize the risk of stretching the threads on the nut, especially if it is stiff.

And the bearing press kit worked great. I did remove the knuckle anyway to beat out the hub assembly but really it's just 3 bolts so not a big deal. Using a socket and a hammer, 2 solid whacks and it flew across the shop; i didn't expect it to come out that easily lol. I could have probably used a puller or maybe hit it from behind while on the car (because it really didn't take much to slide the hub out), but it was just as easy to remove it.

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Would've destroyed the nut and socket and crushed my hand in the process. I really had to give it a hot supper.

MrGiggles said:

Would've destroyed the nut and socket and crushed my hand in the process. I really had to give it a hot supper.

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Mine came out easily,... Just a few light taps with a sledge hammer... I dunno ???

MrGiggles said:

Would've destroyed the nut and socket and crushed my hand in the process. I really had to give it a hot supper.

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Shouldn't destroy the nut... the shoulder of the nut (where all the force is being applied) is pretty stout. I hit it pretty damn hard and it still took a good 10-15 hits but came out fine and didn't hurt the threads at all.

And if you would destroy your socket maybe you should buy a better socket . I've whaled on my impact sockets crazy hard with some big ass hammers, even air hammers and never broken one. And I will always grab the outside of the socket with a pair of vice grips if it doesn't stay on its own. Makes a nice handle and prevents the hand crushing

One thing I've learned recently is that impact sockets are different than regular chrome vanadium steel sockets.

Chrome sockets are harder but more brittle and tend to shatter or explode when overstressed and impact sockets (usually black in color) are softer and tend to bend, mash and wear out over time.

I remember getting a deep impact socket for an axle nut with a loan a tool program years ago and it was so worn out it would twist and fall off the nut. I had to support the socket with a t-stand so it wouldn't fall off.

The socket set I'm using as a bearing press is the dangerous kind that can explode.

pcb said:

One thing I've learned recently is that impact sockets are different than regular chrome vanadium steel sockets.

Chrome sockets are harder but more brittle and tend to shatter or explode when overstressed and impact sockets (usually black in color) are softer and tend to bend, mash and wear out over time.

I remember getting a deep impact socket for an axle nut with a loan a tool program years ago and it was so worn out it would twist and fall off the nut. I had to support the socket with a t-stand so it wouldn't fall off.

The socket set I'm using as a bearing press is the dangerous kind that can explode.

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Oh, yes black is impact grade. I learned this by blowing up a chrome socket with an impact ( I have a deep mistrust of impacts ( electrical or air ). I personaly seem to do damage with them.

I had an axle seized in, but was lazy and replaced the wheel nut/bearing/and axle with spare from parts car ( as a single assembly ).

pb4ugotobed said:

Shouldn't destroy the nut... the shoulder of the nut (where all the force is being applied) is pretty stout. I hit it pretty damn hard and it still took a good 10-15 hits but came out fine and didn't hurt the threads at all.

And if you would destroy your socket maybe you should buy a better socket . I've whaled on my impact sockets crazy hard with some big ass hammers, even air hammers and never broken one. And I will always grab the outside of the socket with a pair of vice grips if it doesn't stay on its own. Makes a nice handle and prevents the hand crushing

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The sockets don't break, the drive end just gets peened to the point that they won't go on the socket or ratchet anymore.

horseflesh said:

Oh, yes black is impact grade. I learned this by blowing up a chrome socket with an impact ( I have a deep mistrust of impacts ( electrical or air ). I personally seem to do damage with them..

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I've never owned or even used air tools. I've got an electric impact from Canadian Tire (the bigger one) but it didn't even want to break loose my lug nuts so I'm still breaking them free by hand... I've had it more than five years and only used it twice.
It always takes me two days to do a two hour job and power tools wouldn't save me much time.

MrGiggles said:

The sockets don't break, the drive end just gets peened to the point that they won't go on the socket or ratchet anymore.

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Gotcha. In that case, Harbor Freight may be your best friend. Can buy a set of shallow impact sockets for cheap and they stay on the nut pretty easily without holding them since they aren't real long.

Personally, I have a set of Craftsman impact sockets that i've had for probably 10 years of *very* hard use (probably 6 years of daily use as a dealership tech) and I've never broken a single one of them. I've broken several MAC and Snap-On sockets (and consequently quit buying Snap-On because our tool guy was a miserable prick... I ALWAYS paid cash for everything and because I didn't have a "truck account" with a balance, getting him to warranty broken tools was nearly impossible). I still have some left but honestly most of it was traded on the other trucks for either MAC or Matco where they didn't piss and moan if I broke something. But anyways...

I don't use an impact gun anymore either. I actually sold most of my air tools when I quit wrenching for a living because if you don't use/oil them regularly, the seals dry out and you have to rebuild them. I don't have a need for air tools most of the time if there's something big I need to break loose, I just use my big ratchet. https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/CFR248LF/1-2-24IN-88-TOOTH-LF-RATCH-CHR/ I've never needed a breaker bar lol. Now they have one that is 6" longer with a cushy handle but that wasn't available when I bought this. I only need an impact gun if I'm trying to bust loose big nuts on crank bolts or somethign that rotates when you turn it and there's nothing to hold on to.

pb4ugotobed said:

.., I just use my big ratchet. https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/CFR248LF/1-2-24IN-88-TOOTH-LF-RATCH-CHR/ I've never needed a breaker bar lol...

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Ouch !!



My 3/4" set was $79 on sale...



But I've only used it maybe 15 times in the 15 years I've had it...

I'd be nice having a quality long handled ratchet but my breaker bar was only $25... Plus, I don't have a hoist so the handle would keep hitting the ground and getting in the way.


I do have a ratcheting breaker bar which is kinda cool,.. You can break the bolt free, ratchet it till it's loose, then stand the handle straight out and spin it off really quick.



BUT ... I read the posted comments about it. (after I bought it of course) and apparently when you really reef on it (breaker bar mode) the ratcheting mechanism jams and stops ratcheting,.. Then you go to use it again like a regular breaker bar and the ratcheting mechanism let's go leaving your hands crashing into the ground and head hitting the side of the car...

I'm afraid to use it for fear of a serious brain injury...

It's not available anymore... Too many brain dead mechanics I suppose ??

Great idea though... Maybe the $500 Matco version would be worth investing in if they have one ???

pcb said:

Ouch !!



My 3/4" set was $79 on sale...



But I've only used it maybe 15 times in the 15 years I've had it...

I'd be nice having a quality long handled ratchet but my breaker bar was only $25... Plus, I don't have a hoist so the handle would keep hitting the ground and getting in the way.


I do have a ratcheting breaker bar which is kinda cool,.. You can break the bolt free, ratchet it till it's loose, then stand the handle straight out and spin it off really quick.



BUT ... I read the posted comments about it. (after I bought it of course) and apparently when you really reef on it (breaker bar mode) the ratcheting mechanism jams and stops ratcheting,.. Then you go to use it again like a regular breaker bar and the ratcheting mechanism let's go leaving your hands crashing into the ground and head hitting the side of the car...

I'm afraid to use it for fear of a serious brain injury...

It's not available anymore... Too many brain dead mechanics I suppose ??

Great idea though... Maybe the $500 Matco version would be worth investing in if they have one ???

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Tekton makes one that's pretty inexpensive. I did destroy the drive end once, but it's easily rebuildable. It's more for reach than it is for leverage.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=COefq9aG8dgCFcFnfgodcEcBNw

The phrase "cold dead hands" comes to mind when I think about my rattle guns.

MrGiggles said:

Tekton makes one that's pretty inexpensive. I did destroy the drive end once, but it's easily rebuildable. It's more for reach than it is for leverage...

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But this is what I like about this one...




Then all you need to do is add is about 20 and you can start adding torque !!! (as long as you don't have a sloppy socket that wants to fall off..)

MrGiggles said:

The phrase "cold dead hands" comes to mind when I think about my rattle guns.

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That's just working on cars in the Great White North...
No rattle guns required...



On the plus side,... Once your hands are numb, you barely feel a thing when you slip and take out a few knuckles !!

Hell,... You don't even know till you see the blood on your car !!