Automatic 2002 Protege 5 Starting issue

eclyburn3

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2002 Mazda Protege 5
Problem started: Rear ended another car and caused a small hole in the radiator - Put in a new radiator and was still overheating. Thought at first didn't get air bleed out, kept adding water, kept getting hot, but not overheating. Put on new belts, their where squealing, but still got hot. Put in a new thermostat, it was stuck almost fully closed. Almost overheated right away, mechanic didn't put in enough water. Got it topped off, but still got hot. (defective radiator) put in a new radiator, seemed to finally got all the air out, as I didnt have to add water any more. Thought all problems fixed. However check engine light on, mechanic stated misfire on #3, could be plug/wire/or coil. But wasn't running/idling rough, light just wouldn't go off, even put on new plugs.

Wife driving all day back and forth across town, sitting at intersection, she stated all of a sudden the temperature gauge shot up to the top, she got through the intersection shut it off, waited to cool off, added water, started up. Although she states it ran really rough at idle, and died, started again, gave it some gas to even out the idle, and put in drive and drove about a mile or so down the road, temp gauge shot to the top, she pulled into a parking lot and it died, (luckily under a tree for shade).

I got to her, filled up the water after it sat for 30-45 min, she started the car it ran really rough again and died. (didn't think too much at the time, as this happened when it overheated the day we put in the thermostat, and I kept it at about 1500 rpm at all stops (lights/signs), after 1/2 mile it quit and ran smooth. checked the water added a little more, at it kept running rough each time it started. However I couldn't get her to keep her foot on the gas, so it kept dying. She reved it up, but took her foot off gas and it died, I replaced the spark-plugs, they plugs didn't seem bad, they where white like they were hot, but not burned black or any oil that I noticed. When I replaced them about 3 months before this started they were dark (black) just like they were old, but not oily, this time they were just white like they were getting really hot, but they still looked good except for being white tips. I haven't been able to get it to start since. She did state she thought she smelled something plastic burning, like burning wires/rubber. But glancing around the top of engine I couldn't see anything melted/burned.

I don't see any water mixed in the oil on the dipstick, or under oil cap. (I had oil changed when they replaced the radiator for the second time), the didn't state anything out of the ordinary, I watched it drain, it was just dark(hadn't changed it in awhile).

This issue took place spread out over 2-3 months time tops.

Today I have replaced the temp sensor, that sits right where the top radiator hose connects to the back of motor, that didn't work. (thinking maybe it was stuck open/closed, making the car think it was still hot, so not starting for engine protection). After which I replaced the wires, and one of the coils, since they stated only one was misfiring. Still won't start.

When trying to start it, it tries to start, kind of sputters but just keeps turning over. It won't start. It's like its trying to, you can feel it "catch" but not all the way, it just keeps turning over and over.

I have seen on here people stating about EGR causing rough idles, but not starting problems.....Any ideas? I'm at wits end....
 
EGR is not the problem, you have much worse things going on.

The initial time it overheated, it may have warped the head and Effed the head gasket.

All the other follow on issues might be caused by that one incident.

Ask the garage if they can check for seal.

Could be the rings or just poor compression caused by no head seal.
 
what I was afraid of hearing.....

any chance I might get lucky and it could need a valve job??
 
Valves or valve related issues do not cause the cooling system issues.. They would just caused burning oil out the tail pipe.

The head gasket seals the compression chamber from the coolant and oil.
 
Compression leaks into the water jacket and displaces the coolant until you have no coolant but steam.

The head gasket does not fail all over at once, it only has to fail in one area. Oil pressure is less than compression pressure so compression will fail before you see oil and coolant everywhere.
 
Ok, thanks for the tip, had a friend that is a mechanic look at it, said he found oil and water mixed...I must be blind...so he is tearing into the head..hopefully just the gasket...
 
The OEM gasket is very good from the dealer, make sure that he does it in a clean(ish) environment and that when he bolts down the head, it has been recently sprayed with brake cleaner but let dry fully.

The head bolts are torque yield, they can normally not be reused, especially on a 9-10 year old car.

they are usually $7-$10 each, do not use the ones that are sold at NAPA or some other shop, the ones from the MAZDA DEALERSHIP are totally different in quality and design.

If you like, there is some detailed information on my website in the link below, that shows how to apply the torque to new bolts and the correct settings.
 
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