Jacking point and jack stand point tips.

SayNoToPistons

Wheels, not rims...
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CX-5 GT AWD w/ Tech, RX-8 GT 6spd w/ 'goodies'
For the front it is relatively hard to jack up from the pinch welds using a non-scissor jack without the notch. Not only that, it is also hard to put on a jackstand on the pick weld after jacking the car up from where ever you did. Got a few tips for those having trouble.

Use the solid cast steel mounts for the lower control arms of the front suspension as a jack point. These are high strength and solid mounts which are directly connected to the sub-frame and unibody of the car. Perfect for using as a jack point. I like to use a folded rag between the jack top and the mount itself to provide better grip and a large contact area.

Once the car is jacked, use the pinch weld as the jack stand point. I prefer the pin type jack stands as I have seen and heard of notch type jacks stands slip and fail if not properly secured. The top of the jack stand that is most suitable is an almost flat V shape which allows the pinch weld to sit properly in the groove. Like with the jack, I like to put a thick rag in between the pinch weld and the jack top.

81205_JackStand_300.jpg



For the rear, make sure the front is either on jack stands or the wheels are chocked. Granted the front wheels are somewhat locked if you have an AT in Park (or in gear if MT), there is still allowable movement. Use the rear differential case as a jack point. It is another high strength cast steel casing that is directly mounted to the subframe. It is also right smack in the center of the car, so no balance issues. Once it is jacked, follow the same procedure for the pinch weld jack points.
 
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Could anyone point out these locations with pictures or a schematic or something? I have to admit that I'm still a bit of a car novice and I don't really know which spots I'm looking for based on your description. Thanks!
 
Good advice with the pin style jack stands. Another good idea is to place the stands on a piece of sturdy plywood or something similar if you are working on grass or a loose dirt surface to prevent the jack sinking in and tipping. I'd also like to add that I personally know of several people who have been killed when their vehicle fell off of an improperly supported stand/jack/ramps and crushed them to death. If I am going to be under a car, I will also err on the side of caution and will also push some cinder blocks under there to reduce to risk. I know this is more than needed maybe, but better safe than sorry.

One last thing to know is that you should NEVER trust the ramp style lift. They are often not well made and can collapse without warning, even if they have worked in the past.
 
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Good advice with the pin style jack stands. Another good idea is to place the stands on a piece of sturdy plywood or something similar if you are working on grass or a loose dirt surface to prevent the jack sinking in and tipping. I'd also like to add that I personally know of several people who have been killed when their vehicle fell off of an improperly supported stand/jack and crushed them to death. If I am going to be under a car, I will also err on the side of caution and will also push some cinder blocks under there to reduce to risk. I know this is more than needed maybe, but better safe than sorry.

One last thing to know is that you should NEVER trust the ramp style lift. They are often not well made and can collapse without warning, even if they have worked in the past.

In my opinion, cinder blocks as a "safety" aren't worth a dime. They will take continuous load, but will fail under impact loads. Catastrophically fail. They also fail as a support because if the are loaded unevenly, as in a point load, they may also fail. So cinder blocks are not for car support unless part of a designed system as in holding a lift or similar. If you want a safety, throw your spare tire under the car.
 
In my opinion, cinder blocks as a "safety" aren't worth a dime. They will take continuous load, but will fail under impact loads. Catastrophically fail. They also fail as a support because if the are loaded unevenly, as in a point load, they may also fail. So cinder blocks are not for car support unless part of a designed system as in holding a lift or similar. If you want a safety, throw your spare tire under the car.

A spare is way too thin to do any good. I put the cinder blocks strategically placed as an additional support with just a slight bit of pressure on them, not as a means of catching the falling vehicle.
 
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totally agree with you CXVille. Yes never like the jack stands that has the notches even though I have a set. I always leave it at the lowest setting if I can. Anyways I check back the service manual and I found the recommended jacking point when jacking either the front or rear end. I hope this helps.
 

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I have checked the front cross member which happens to be somewhat of a thin stamped steel plating. It is a dimpled surface (much like a golf ball), and I would rather not have to put a dent into the cross member. I have contemplated about it as I always use the front cross member of my RX-8 as a jack point, but the RX-8 have a noticeably thicker gauge steel and is a 3x4" flat surface lump. So each to their own in this case.
 
I have checked the front cross member which happens to be somewhat of a thin stamped steel plating. It is a dimpled surface (much like a golf ball), and I would rather not have to put a dent into the cross member. I have contemplated about it as I always use the front cross member of my RX-8 as a jack point, but the RX-8 have a noticeably thicker gauge steel and is a 3x4" flat surface lump. So each to their own in this case.

I haven't jacked the cx5 yet, but your recent observation is valid. Perhaps a pieced of old tire or any heavy rubber padding for the jack will prevent it from denting the cross member. The only time I would imagine doing that would be rotating the tires where is easier to all all the wheel off the ground. Again, we all appreciate you for sharing your findings.
 
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