Hardwiring a Valentine 1

I know this thread has been up for a while but I just wanted to say thanks to Seminole for providing such a detailed write-up. I recently hardwired my dashcam and could not have done it so easily without this thread. Again many thanks.
 
Anyone with a CX-5 having issues where the laser unit in the Smart City Brake Support system (SCBS) sets off their Valentine One's laser detector?

I just installed my V-1 in my '14 CX-5 GT and I had to shut off the V-1 as it goes off constantly thinking there is a laser speed device nearby. Interestingly, disabling the SCBS in the multi-info display had no effect on this.

I have the same issue, using the newest version of the escort redline, and it does pick up the laster from the scbs. I do not have mine hardwired, just using the 12v for now, I have though about putting it to the far left of the dash to get it away as far away as possible from the laser unit, will be interesting to test it out.
 
I just ordered a hardwire kit for my Escort 9500ix detector so I may be back here tomorrow or Saturday for guidance. ;)
 
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Ok, I'm having a problem inserting the fuse tap into the fuse slot. The fuse slot has these small hooks to keep the fuse in place and they prevent the fuse tap from being inserted all the way in. It just pops out if you shake it a little bit, so I think when driving on some rough road the fuse tap could just fall out. Can anyone please advise on how to deal with this? Thanks.

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The fuse tap I used fit securely into the slot. I had to give it a good push, so try to push it in as far as it will go and you should be ok. I think you'd need a really big jolt to knock it out.
 
I just hard wired a Garmin GPS and Escort radar detector. Thanks to Seminole for the "how to". I have 2015 CX-5 and I had to install the 'add a fuse' with the fuse facing up (the red wire going out to the left) for it to work. ???
I also replaced the 15 amp fuse that came with the kit with a 7.5.
 
If I'm tapping into the same spot, but I need a 5 amp fuse (as the add-on fuse) - what should I put in the first slot? The full 15 amp or something else?
 
I have the same issue, were you able to fix the problem?

Ok, I'm having a problem inserting the fuse tap into the fuse slot. The fuse slot has these small hooks to keep the fuse in place and they prevent the fuse tap from being inserted all the way in. It just pops out if you shake it a little bit, so I think when driving on some rough road the fuse tap could just fall out. Can anyone please advise on how to deal with this? Thanks.

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I have the same issue, were you able to fix the problem?

I may have a solution, I've been working with thedashcamstore and according to their techs -

Hi Ray,

Thanks for getting back to us with the additional information. It looks like your Mazda uses the recessed housing for the low-profile fuses. If you like, we can swap your installation kit out for a normal mini fuse version. The normal mini fuse tap actually fits just fine in the low-profile fuse slot, as shown in these photos [...]

Once my parts come in the mail and I do the switch, I can report back, but this seems like a pretty reasonable explanation.
 
FYI. There is switched 12v power in the overhead console if you have either automatic wipers or a sunroof. I imagine there is a source for the autodim mirror too but thankfully I don't have that. I just put in a radar detector power wire. Connected it to the plug that goes to the sunroof controller. I had a '13 schematic and the color code was slightly different on my '16 (the ground wire) The Blue/black wire is switched 12v and the black/yellow wire is ground. '13 schematic said the ground was solid black. Careful of the black/white wire, that is unswitched 12v. Used the 'roof wiring instead of the rain sensor because it was just easier to free up the wires. I wanted to solder to the connector pin but couldn't figure out how to release the "secondary latch" with breaking it so I just used wire taps.
 
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