Oil Pressure, Fuel Pressure, and Temp Gauges.

oh oh ok, i'm sorry...I haven't messed with the stock sensor at all...totally forgot its set up completely different...

my oil pressure gauge just has a 'sending unit'...which is one part...and is a 1/8" npt fitting connected to a 'barrel' like thing...oil enters it, and resistance is changed at its 'sensor terminal', as far as official names go from speedhut...i didn't remember the stock parts being completely different...

but also...if you found out what causes the 'on/off' switch...you could still manipulate it, right?
 
No problem,... that's why it only has one wire coming out of it. It just "shorts" to ground. Your sensor has at least two insulated wires running to it because of the varying voltage that needs to be isolated from body ground,... much like O2, CMP,CKP,sensors.

Now just to find some other switch for my car,... maybe an e-mail to airtex or something,... it should be very simple, it just has to thread in the hole and leave enough room around it to clear everything that might be in the way,... like I said,... I don't even know where it goes yet.
 
IMG_20130410_200240.jpgi installed a glowshift oil pressure gauge with a sandwich plate and at cold startup it reports about 90 psi and 70 when warmed up when fully hot and at idle i get 22 psi and 70 under load
 
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^well wait...mine has an optional ground terminal, but that is only for when its installed into a non-conductive npt fitting i was told...Both my oil pressure and oil temp sensors work perfectly with NO ground wiring...i tried it out first...speedhut said use the ground wire terminal if i use a lot of teflon tape, that will terminate its own ground into the oil pressure plate...I didn't use teflon tape though, i use a liquid conductive sensor sealant...that still allows it to ground to the adaptor plate...

Since it was so easy...i did run a ground wire from the pressure sensor to the chassis...but i did not with the temp sensor (that works in a similar way resistance wise, its just effected by heat)...and have had no reading problems before or after i used that ground wire...and the temp sensor actually flipped out when i used a ring terminal and tried to ground it also...

so just pointing that out in case it makes a difference...both sensors worked with only a single line connected to them...which was the sensor wire from the back of the gauges in the dash...
 
whatusername said:
i installed a glowshift oil pressure gauge with a sandwich plate and at cold startup it reports about 90 psi and 70 when warmed up when fully hot and at idle i get 22 psi and 70 under load
Click to expand...

just about identical to me...I get around 25 'hot' idle usually...but it falls to 19/20 after some pretty hard driving...if oil temp stays around 225 it never gets close to 20psi at idle...I've had temp all the way up to 260 for a bit, and only then did it settle around 19...and that rises as the temp falls...

Doc B's race MSP would regularly hit temps close to 300 degrees on a track...and that was a point where idle pressure, and even driving pressure, was getting way too low...at least from what i was reading a while ago...and rather than an elaborate oil cooler, they addressed the pump directly with an external relief valve...keeping idle pressure above 30 psi no matter what the oil temp...
 
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Installshield 2 said:
oh oh ok, i'm sorry...I haven't messed with the stock sensor at all...totally forgot its set up completely different...

my oil pressure gauge just has a 'sending unit'...which is one part...and is a 1/8" npt fitting connected to a 'barrel' like thing...oil enters it, and resistance is changed at its 'sensor terminal', as far as official names go from speedhut...i didn't remember the stock parts being completely different...

but also...if you found out what causes the 'on/off' switch...you could still manipulate it, right?
Click to expand...

That gets really complicated for a two dollar part,... you would have to "trick" the sender into seeing less pressure than there really is.
You could reduce the pressure it see's by putting a pressure reducer on it like that gizmo on top of a gas meter but even I don't wanna over think that one.
Physically taking apart my switch might help but that's too much effort.
 
pcb if u could link me to the non fowler trick i cant seem to find it and i want to do it right now nevermind i think i found it finally......... this search engine sux ballz
 
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O2 non-fouler? very easy...only thing i can't remember exactly is the non-fouler size...

You need 2 18mm long non-foulers:

with the right size...take a drill bit and drill out the thin end completely...making a bigger 'slot' inside of the housing...you need to make room inside of it for the o2 sensor's reader 'nubb'...after that is drilled...screw the other un adjusted non-fouler onto it...then install both onto the 2nd o2 sensor...

you'll then have a long o2 sensor, and install that into the exhaust system...done...this lets the o2 sensor heat up properly, so it doesn't trip the code for the internal heater...but it doesn't register enough exhaust gas to 'see' that the pre-cat was removed...

EDIT: thanks, changed the size...couldn't remember...
 
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18 mm
Napa part number 730-2442
Call them first to see if they have them.
There is an electrical method too.
 
I Googled our pressure switch for an hour and found this:

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # PS160T T-Series; Thread Size - NPT: 1/8" x 28 British Std. Pipe; Blade Terminals; Terminal Gender: Male; Direct OE Replacement; Operating Pressure - PSI: 2-7 psi; Number of Terminals: 1; Connector Gender: Male
w/ Light

I just found out that this "switch" is normally closed so I'm gonna find the sensor and unplug it and make sure my idiot light goes off.
I then verified this with my ohmeter and also tried to pop the switch by blowing into the hole, but I could't pop it (that's what she said)

CAD$3.37

So now I know what thread size i need. Then I searched at least 20 other vehicles and they ALL had a psi switching point of either 2-7 or 2-9 PSI.

I might take my new switch to a local car parts place and see if there even is an alternative to the standard 2-9 PSI cut off.

This switch is so common that even on a completely metric, Japanese built car, the thread is in British Std. Pipe measurements.
 
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Not exactly relate to the lat few posts...
But will drop it here for reference anyway.

Aftermarket (Blitz) Oil temp an oil pressure sending units (1/8 NPT) in sandwich plate.

That's a good way for an aftermarket sending unit install.

2255FE3D-F51B-4DA9-BF36-53268E7D7B7C-11692-000011E5313913C7_zps50121449.jpg
 
^OK,... I'm liking that,... I know I could do the Googly but many $ was that?? (does it come in red,... that would match my car better.) (is there a version for a cheap ass??)

OK,.. I did the Googly and the cheapest oil pressure gauge at speed hut is:
G-OIL-01
2-1/16" Speedhut Oil Pressure Gauge 0-100psi
$80.85

And they start at:
GT-FORDKIT-01
Ford GT Speedometer Gauge
Ford GT Tachometer Gauge with Shift lights
Ford GT Volt Gauge
Ford GT Oil psi Gauge
Ford GT Boost Gauge gauge
Ford GT Water temp gauge
Ford GT Fuel level Gauge

$1296.00

That's too rich for my blood. My car's only worth about $3,000. I'm sure I can score something at the wrecker,... I just gotta make sure I get the matching "sensor" along with it.

I've been surfing (literally and figuratvely,.. the water's cold but I was windsurfing) and found this web site:
It's a pretty helpful site,... lots of info and even stuff like how to use an ohmeter.

http://www.wellsve.com/custom_searches/ds_oil.php?showall=yes

I found this too:

Oilpressureswitch_zpsc04727c2.jpg
 
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Looking at like $30 for the sandwich plate... And I really don't think colour will matter... Not as though you can see it (Inbetween block and oil filter lol). Gauge's with sending unit should be like $100ish each (depending what you get)
Looking at a couple of hundred for something decent... Could get the same set up quite alot cheaper if you wanted to.

Something like defi or the blitz meters are expensive, as they run through a little processor unit... Allows for peaks/warnings, playback etc. but that's just overkill lol.
 
Yea I was being a smart ass,.. I've gotta start typing "haha" when I try to be funny. (it still won't be funny but at least people know I'm trying.)

Anyway,... I'm gonna go through that list again (from the link above) and try to find one that will work. It seems that most higher pressure switches are metric:

PS181 (View Image) M14X1.50
26-30 PSI

PS229 (View Image) M12x1.50
Normally open - Closes 10-15 PSI

PS250 (View Image) 1/8-27 NPTF Dryseal
Switch Pressure - 12-18 PSI


I'm liking the PS181,... I may be able to rethread it or use an adapter but it doesn't say whether it's normally open or closed.

I've got a tap and die set,... I'm gonna go get it to see how the measurements compare.

I am liking the price of the sandwich plate you're not talking English pounds ($) are you ??
I could use that with a scavenged meters and sensors from the wrecker.
 
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