Mazda5 AT fluid flush

jonnybearback

Member
:
TBC
Dealser recommended fluid flush today. Fair one as its brown, just as expected. 57,000kms

They wont do a drail and fill, only flush, however reading around things, I'm inclined to move towards castrol import MV synth, however, presumably I need to flush in order to remove all traces of M-V... or can I achieve this with a steady drop/fill schedule?
Or, should I scratch off the synth thing and stick with Mazdas oem m-v atf?

Was thinking about a pan drop too, but can't find gasket info.. is it an available part or just a tube of silicone factory DIY type affair?

Had one flush in a different vehicle.. cost me a transmission so I'm inclined to avoid at all costs - unless its the best plan?
Thanks in advance
 
My understanding is that a "power flush" is bad - puts debris in places that are not usually can be reached.

3 drains and refills should replace the fluid with 87.5% new ATF (assuming you replace 50% each drain). I'm just change the ATF 3x when I change the engine oil. I'm going to Castrol import MV since it is fairly easy to get from Amazon at a good price. Most people say that the Mazda oem is not that good. I've used Mobil 1 atf - it seemed pretty good, but is getting expensive and they removed Mazda compatibility for awhile. Other choices are Valveoline and Redline. My opinion is that I'd rather use cheaper ATF and replace it more often, then use the expensive.

Just curious how much other people are putting back on a drain and refill. I measured it, I seem to get about 2.75 quarts out. So I put back about 2.75 quarts. Do you think 3 quarts is ok to replace? I have a hard time reading the stick, since so much is picked up form the sides of the guide tube.

Search is your friend - see http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123824925-ATF-Recommendations-What-fluid-cooler-filter-Share-your-experience-on-the-Mz5!&highlight=atf+change
 
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My understanding is that a "power flush" is bad - puts debris in places that are not usually can be reached.

3 drains and refills should replace the fluid with 87.5% new ATF (assuming you replace 50% each drain). I'm just change the ATF 3x when I change the engine oil. I'm going to Castrol import MV since it is fairly easy to get from Amazon at a good price. Most people say that the Mazda oem is not that good. I've used Mobil 1 atf - it seemed pretty good, but is getting expensive and they removed Mazda compatibility for awhile. Other choices are Valveoline and Redline. My opinion is that I'd rather use cheaper ATF and replace it more often, then use the expensive.

Just curious how much other people are putting back on a drain and refill. I measured it, I seem to get about 2.75 quarts out. So I put back about 2.75 quarts. Do you think 3 quarts is ok to replace? I have a hard time reading the stick, since so much is picked up form the sides of the guide tube.

Search is your friend - see http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123824925-ATF-Recommendations-What-fluid-cooler-filter-Share-your-experience-on-the-Mz5!&highlight=atf+change

I get about 3.3 quartz when I drain. All you need to do to accurately check the tranny fluid is drive around until you are certain the fluid is hot, make sure you selected all of the gears, pull the stick out while it's running, wipe it dry, put it back in, pull it, and make sure the level is on the little notch that's cut out. It's not hard to measure. Just make sure the engine is running. I highly recommend putting enough back in to be close to what you took out knowing that adding more to get it level is a hell of a lot easier than trying to get some out.
 
You could do a full flush at home easily too. Just remove the line from the stock fluid cooler. Looks like a small tuna can. Drain and refill with roughly 3 qts then remove that line and run it till about 3 qts runs out. Keep doing this till you see red fluid. Simple. I've done it on mine already once at about 40k miles
 
Hello,

I have just had a complete transmission flush done on my 2006 Mazda5 with 115000 miles on it. I heard different things about doing this to a car with mileage over 75000 miles because it could start making the transmission slip. The product that the dealer used is BG products.

After service was done by the dealer, the transmission fluid looks better because now it has a pink color instead of the brown that it had before the flush. Now however, I have a problem with the car sometimes going into 3rd gear and my AT light comes on. I rolled the dice and hoped that by doing the "total flush" would be the best way to go..but I don't know now.

I will be taking the vehicle back to the dealer that did the flush in Montgomery,Alabama first thing in morning and see what gives.

I will keep you guys posted. If anyone out there can tell me a solution for an AT light coming on please let me know...

Thanks Mazda Forum Readers
 
It doesn't look good, hopefully your dealer will owe up that he broke your transmission with the flush.
 
I wish I could shout out to everyone to check their ATF condition, but in these cars especially. Mazda has no drain interval listed, perhaps because they want to sell you a power ATF flush at the dealer whenever they can or because they want you to buy a new transmission someday. This lifetime fluid nonsense being pushed by the OEM's is insane and just forces us to buy more cars or transmissions(good business plan, though)

A bit of a rant here: As many know, hopefully everyone on this forum know, the 5 is just an over-sized 3 for the most part. But I feel that Mazda(and Ford, since Ford held almost 50% interest of Mazda during the 5's development.) cheaped out on upgrading some of the components from 3 to 5 use. The main one that everyone has problems with here, the suspension, just doesn't seem to be able to do the job a 6 passenger vehicle might do without premature wear. I just did my rear shocks at 30k miles on an 08 because one was leaking. And I only have two kids in car seats, so the vehicle is rarely ever heavily loaded. But I do live where the roads usually are in disrepair, so that accounts for some of it.

Back to the transmission. It's got a lot of work to do in the 5. The 2.3 157hp four cylinder, was a strong engine in the 3 around 06 when the 5 came out. More than the 2.0 at the time and before the MS3 came out. But the extra weight of the 5 makes that less so. So you've got a heavier vehicle that can carry more weight. Throw in some hills like I have at home and the transmission has lots of shifting to do to keep things moving. And they did a pretty good job with it. Our 08 GT is a 5 speed auto and it shifts fairly quickly and smoothly. The grade logic on downhills works better than any other car I've driven with it except my CVT equipped Altima.

But all that work generates heat and it's basically cooking the fluid. In the flatlands, it might not be as much of a problem, but for those of you who live in hilly or mountainous terrain or lots of stop and go with high ambient temps, check your ATF! It should look like cherry cough syrup. If it's brown, change it or have it changed. I wouldn't do the power flush though, but that's your choice. Even doing "drain 3, add 3 or so" a few times will, in theory, replace about 75% of the old fluid and that's better than not doing anything. The difference in the way our 5 shifts is amazing.

Some final thoughts : Ford included a drain plug in the transmission, but no service interval? You can get a transmission filter for the 5 but nothing about ever replacing it or the fluid? The transmission pan is sealed with to the transmission without a gasket?
 
I have a vacuum extractor. I pulled about 1 qt out of the dipstick tube and 2 or so from the drain plug. My unscientific and messy way to keep an old quart bottle around and dump the old fluid I've taken out into a quart bottle. I then verify with the dipstick after I fill with about 3 qts, drive it and check it.
 
3 drains and refills should replace the fluid with 87.5% new ATF (assuming you replace 50% each drain). I'm just change the ATF 3x when I change the engine oil. I'm going to Castrol import MV since it is fairly easy to get from Amazon at a good price. Most people say that the Mazda oem is not that good. I've used Mobil 1 atf - it seemed pretty good, but is getting expensive and they removed Mazda compatibility for awhile. Other choices are Valveoline and Redline. My opinion is that I'd rather use cheaper ATF and replace it more often, then use the expensive.

Can you elaborate on "3 drains and refills" please? Do you do 3 drains and 3 refills in one shot, or do you drive a few thousand miles between each drain and refill? Interestingly, the 5 service manual shows the drain and replacement procedure but does not say that a "power flush" is needed...

Btw, has anyone tried Red Line D4 as a replacement ATF?
 
Can you elaborate on "3 drains and refills" please? Do you do 3 drains and 3 refills in one shot, or do you drive a few thousand miles between each drain and refill? Interestingly, the 5 service manual shows the drain and replacement procedure but does not say that a "power flush" is needed...

Drain and refill is a total waste or time and money and you don't replace all the fluid. Don't do it!!!
Much more complete, faster and a bit cheaper:
1) Just disconnect the cooling hose from the tranny
2) Connect a long clear house and run it outside the car into the drain pan
3) Drain the fluid from the plug and fill new
4) Have some one start your car and put in drive while your car in on the hand brake as well as holding brakes
5) Watch the old fluid drain into the container while adding fresh fluid through the tranny dip stick, watch it as it drains fast, so just dump the fluid as fast as it flows.
6) Once you see red fluid come out through the clear hose, shut the car off, you are done. This should take about 5 litters of fluid + 3 that you initially added to the system.
7) confirm the level and reconnect all the houses
8) Enjoy fresh beer knowing that 99% of the fluid has been changed in 15 minutes work.

you can watch it on youtube done on the Mazda 3 if you are not clear on the process. I'll film it next time on the 5 when I do it but will be about this time next year :)

Btw, has anyone tried Red Line D4 as a replacement ATF?
Yes, you can do a search, it has been done.
 
sorry but however

Hello,

I have just had a complete transmission flush done on my 2006 Mazda5 with 115000 miles on it. I heard different things about doing this to a car with mileage over 75000 miles because it could start making the transmission slip. The product that the dealer used is BG products.

After service was done by the dealer, the transmission fluid looks better because now it has a pink color instead of the brown that it had before the flush. Now however, I have a problem with the car sometimes going into 3rd gear and my AT light comes on. I rolled the dice and hoped that by doing the "total flush" would be the best way to go..but I don't know now.

I will be taking the vehicle back to the dealer that did the flush in Montgomery,Alabama first thing in morning and see what gives. Every 30k should be the rule and 115k is pretty much too late...

I will keep you guys posted. If anyone out there can tell me a solution for an AT light coming on please let me know...

Thanks Mazda Forum Readers

This is the perfect example how lack of maintenance can destroy the transmission. I flushed mine at 36000 and it was really dark and smelly. It is not necesarily the dealer's fault, but rather Mazdas for not making it part of maintenance schedule, and also partly the owner's.
 
Can you elaborate on "3 drains and refills" please? Do you do 3 drains and 3 refills in one shot, or do you drive a few thousand miles between each drain and refill? Interestingly, the 5 service manual shows the drain and replacement procedure but does not say that a "power flush" is needed...

Btw, has anyone tried Red Line D4 as a replacement ATF?

I use Redline ATF. Redline is not API certified. It works fine and doesn't burn up constantly like the OEM. As soon as the warranty is up, I'll be switching to Redline engine oil as well. I'm relatively happy with Valvoline SYN so I didn't take the same warranty risk on the engine that I did with the ATF.
 
API certified is not a requirement, meeting API specs is.

Redline does not warranty your equipment if the fluid fails or didn't meet spec, but Amsoil does. I've used Amsoil ATF in the same trans in my Mazda6 and it felt great. It did have a drain interval (30k per flush). And "flush" is a loose term, usually the machine used is a "fluid exchange machine" which ensures the amount of fluid out = the amount of fluid in.

linky: Amsoil ATF
 
API certified is not a requirement, meeting API specs is.

Redline does not warranty your equipment if the fluid fails or didn't meet spec, but Amsoil does. I've used Amsoil ATF in the same trans in my Mazda6 and it felt great. It did have a drain interval (30k per flush). And "flush" is a loose term, usually the machine used is a "fluid exchange machine" which ensures the amount of fluid out = the amount of fluid in.

linky: Amsoil ATF

Meeting specs is obviously required to perform as desired in your vehicle, so in that regard I agree. But if you put non-certified oil in your engine and Mazda can prove it, your warranty will not be honored. That's a fact.
 
Ok so if there's no change interval, what does it say about fluid specs? use Mazda M-V. If the Amsoil bottle says meets Mazda M-V specs (and it does say that) then the dealer is going to then deny your warranty claim? That's not true. They may try and weasel out of it, but a call to Mazda and Amsoil is a quick solution as Amsoil will on your behalf send a strongly worded letter backing you up.

Here you go: Amsoil's Warranty Secure

Don't play scare tactics, that's the dealer's job. And I don't know why you're mentioning API specs when transmission fluid is not specd by the API.
 
Ok so if there's no change interval, what does it say about fluid specs? use Mazda M-V. If the Amsoil bottle says meets Mazda M-V specs (and it does say that) then the dealer is going to then deny your warranty claim? That's not true. They may try and weasel out of it, but a call to Mazda and Amsoil is a quick solution as Amsoil will on your behalf send a strongly worded letter backing you up.

Here you go: Amsoil's Warranty Secure

Don't play scare tactics, that's the dealer's job. And I don't know why you're mentioning API specs when transmission fluid is not specd by the API.

OK Mr. Amsoil salesman.

First of all, don't tell me I'm playing "scare tactics" when I'm simply stating facts. If you read what I stated instead of trying to sell your multi-level marketing scam to the ignorant masses you will see that I am referring to engine oil, and by default referring to transmission fluid with regard to Redline, so I don't know if you are ignoring obvious information so that it fits into your sales scheme, aren't reading the thread, or are just having a brain fart.

You're spinning simple facts like it's some sort of voodoo hocus pocus. 1.) "If the Amsoil bottle says meets Mazda M-V specs (and it does say that) then the dealer is going to then deny your warranty claim? That's not true." You are wrong and don't understand blatant terms and conditions. Amsoil pitchmen have been stating the same for 10+ years and it's simply false. 2.) If you use engine oil that is not API certified in your engine, Mazda will deny your warranty claim if they can prove you used non-certified oil. That's a fact no matter what kind of snake oil Amsoil is selling. Stop telling people otherwise. 3.) Nobody in their right mind cares what kind of letter Amsoil sends to Mazda. Surely you are joking (I am laughing along with you as I type this). I've been reading this default talking points response from Amsoil freaks now for many, many years.

Here's a fact for everyone to digest. It doesn't matter if Amsoil sends Mazda a letter. If you use engine oil that is not API-certified and your auto manufacturer can prove it, you are screwed. As the Amsoil salesman states, transmission fluid is not API-certified. Therefore, if you ask someone who knows what they are talking about (not an Amsoil salesman), you will find that if your transmission fails while using fluid other than what is recommended, you have no legal recourse to argue against Mazda's claim that your fluid was not sufficient in meeting specs. I can make transmission fluid out of canola oil and say it meets specs, yet it doesn't. Get it? That's what API is for.
 
Let's thin the rhetoric out a little:

1.) "If the Amsoil bottle says meets Mazda M-V specs (and it does say that) then the dealer is going to then deny your warranty claim? That's not true." You are wrong and don't understand blatant terms and conditions.
Mazda M-V is a Mazda spec and is not licensed/certified/rubber stamped by the API. It's a set of minimum requirements set by Mazda that the fluid manufacturer has to meet. Mazda does not run a 'certification' for MV like GM does for Dextron so there's no additional testing needed. It's on the Mfr of the fluid to tell the customer where to use the fluid. The same is applicable for Redline, but you seem to have forgotten that.
2.) If you use engine oil that is not API certified in your engine, Mazda will deny your warranty claim if they can prove you used non-certified oil. That's a fact no matter what kind of snake oil Amsoil is selling. Stop telling people otherwise.
Here's what an 06 Mazda6 manual says: "Only use oils 'Certified For Gasoline Engines' by the American Petroleum Institute (API). An oil with this trademark symbol conforms to the current engine and emission system protection standards and fuel economy requirements of the International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC), comprised of U.S. and Japanese automobile manufacturers."

Amsoil's XL and OE lines have the logo because they are Group III based oils and their formulation varies very little since they're not meant to be cutting edge oils. As for their signature series, Amsoil refuses to pay the API to certify Signature Series because they do not allow base stock substitutions on 'true' synthetic lubricants. Amsoil doesn't want to be limited to one supplier, as this could potentially disrupt production (they are only about 5% of the market). If they certify their lubricant using one manufacturers base stock, Amsoil would not be able to switch suppliers without re-certifying the lubricant over again. This is very expensive. Amsoil SS line exceeds API SN specs by far, but since the API is biased on petroleum base stocks, it's not a fair game for PAO and Esters. Not on the financial side of the equation.

So feel free to use OE and XL as they ARE API certified, but certifying their Signature Series would back them into a corner. Knowing this, Amsoil decided to do what most other companies don't: offer a warranty if their product actually is at fault.
Here's their warranty info: http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2488.pdf and http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g1363.pdf

If you use engine oil that is not API-certified and your auto manufacturer can prove it, you are screwed.
Read the Amsoil PDFs, it'll clarify a few things for you.

Transmission fluid is not API-certified. You will find that if your transmission fails while using fluid other than what is recommended, you have no legal recourse to argue against Mazda's claim that your fluid was not sufficient in meeting specs. I can make transmission fluid out of canola oil and say it meets specs, yet it doesn't. That's what API is for.
Hold the phone, so if the API isn't involved in transmission fluid, why do you bring it up when talking about it? I'm confused. The OP using Redline would be just as 'bad' as using Amsoil in this case as neither are 'certified' for transmissions. You have no choice but to rely on the mfr's word that they're being truthful.

Here's Amsoil's listing on the API site: http://eolcs.api.org/companyInformation.aspx?id=226450
Click the logos to view certifications. Certain products were chosen for certification to allow participation in government and fleet bids which *require* certification for submittal.

And can we keep this on transmission fluids since that's the topic of the thread? PM me if you want to discuss this further and I can get you any/all info you may need.
 
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