Tuning the Stock Ecu? Possible?

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I'm ******* Un-subscribing from this s***..

Continues to post. Lulz.

MP5T, do you have any dyno sheets of your show car? Just curious since you talk a big game all the time and no one has seen any dyno sheets or proof of these 180mph high speed runs.

ps- I've heard, ridden in AJ's car and it sounds badass, is pretty damn quick and he's got a heck of a driver mod.
 
watch the vid of brians pro5 with that new built trans. its worth the watch lol somewhere on youtube i think

I thought Toyota had a good fwd trans?

correct the E153 comes in FWD, AWD and mid engined rwd setup. (from camry v6, celica all trac and mr2)

since I have no balls lately ill probly just end up with the fwd camry E153 in my car.

unless someone wants to donate a jdm/edm sport20 rear end. the cost of importing/buying the rear clip is more than my MSP is even worth so AWD swap is pretty much out of the cards until I win the lottery lol
 
I think that the general consensus still to either turbo charge or supercharge, not both.
 
I know in the Honda world people have tried both setups and turbo always makes more power for less money
 
Sub....this seems to be an entertaining thread, just please don't get it locked for some dumb s***
 
Sub....this seems to be an entertaining thread, just please don't get it locked for some dumb s***

I'm pretty sure that hamsters are quite dumb though. They're crazy ass drivers anyway.

We might be breaking some rules:


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Ill say it like i always have 400, 500, or even 600 whp makes no difference when you cant get traction, at that point its just saying how much money you have. Ive personally seen a 230whp civic run the same time as a 600 whp civic in the 1/8 mile. Not to mention that much power is useless for autocross or playing on backroads or any speed under 60-100.
 
Ill say it like i always have 400, 500, or even 600 whp makes no difference when you cant get traction, at that point its just saying how much money you have. Ive personally seen a 230whp civic run the same time as a 600 whp civic in the 1/8 mile. Not to mention that much power is useless for autocross or playing on backroads or any speed under 60-100.

^^Agree totally,... I had a Tracker that was completely gutless (84 horse at the crank maybe 20 at the wheels) and it was pretty damn gay ass (I saw a toy version of my "truck" at Wal-Mart with Barbie driving it) but that thing kicked ass in the dirt. Like he said it's all about traction. If you've got enough hp to spin the wheels then that's all the useable hp you need.

Guys would come out to the muck with their $50,000, 5,000 pound, 500 hp off roaders and laugh at me until I was doing circles around them and fitting between trees that they couldn't. (It fit nicely down snowmobile and community trails too but don't tell anyone.) And then something on their truck would break. (snapped axles, blown diffs. universals, driveshafts)

Mudders have the added benefit of using newton's first law,... If you can pick up mud and spit it out behind you, it propels you forward. I would put it in 4-low wind that girl up to redline dump the clutch and spray s*** everywhere. They said I buzzed around like a hummingbird (which wasn't a compliment but it worked for me).
So much for the secret to off-roading,... "slow, slow, slow". I proved it wrong.
I remember going through mush at 1/2 mile and hour in 5th gear 4-low at red-line shooting 50 foot rooster's from all 4 wheels (well two actually, I didn't have locking diffs.) What a freakin scream and a half.

The rules of the road don't apply in the dirt either, and neither does your insurance, so you can drive like a complete ass. You're only confined by the laws of gravity, but I think newton might have been wrong about all that.

It was completely stock except for slightly oversize wheels to get into a "truck" strength tire.

It's all about traction and driving ability (not that I didn't get stuck (over a hundred times but a come along tied to a tree was all I needed) or tip it over (just pushed it back onto it's wheels and kept going)).

I'm starting to miss her now and all the fun we had together. She wasn't pretty but she loved to scream and get really dirty.

P.S. I suppose if you could pick up and spit out some of the roadway on a street vehicle you could accelerate harder,... maybe cleats or something,... hmmm.
 
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Fast Factors: These have a cumulative effect in regards to putting the power down.

Fat (225) sticky tires, Curb Weight Biased 70% to front tires, 600 Lbs lighter from stock weight, Quaife LSD, Mild Rake (Rear slightly taller than front), Strong Spring Rate in rear.
 
^^pcb...not that this thread has a whole lot of 'topic' left, but i'm a little lost about newton's first law in your example.

a vehicle will remain at rest until an 'unbalanced force' changes that...in the case of a vehicle, that force is generated by the engine...in order for that force to be applied and transformed into kinetic motion...two things have to work together properly...a normal force (the force of the pavement/dirt/ground/etc. pushing up on the tires) and the force of gravity pushing the tires down on the ground...the mating point of these two forces are PART of friction...but other variables effect that, too...

your tracker easily spinning tires in gravel or whatever is caused by a lot of things...not just 'it has enough power to spin the wheels'...there is less gravitational force on a tracker compared to a heavier off road vehicle...the tracker also most likely had much smaller width tires, creating a smaller frictional foot print...but, seemingly, it also did have enough engine output to break the friction created...

My point is...'throwing mud' away from the tires is actually wasted work...and throwing pavement away from a tire because of spikes or cleats would be the exact same thing...in the case of newton's first law...the object you want to move is the car...not the ground...moving the ground directly translates into wasted energy for moving the car...

so, just saying, ideally the most efficient set up for any form of 'moving around' in a vehicle involves no wheel spin, and a stable platform underneath it that remains intact as the car moves itself forward...off road doesn't really have that, so traction is fundamentally compromised...your example actually moves in towards rocket science, literally...as if you have an object that throws a percentage of ITS OWN mass behind it, at a fixed rate, it creates thrust and exponential acceleration...not the case with a car, as the road underneath it is not part of its own mass...
 
^Yea that's what started this whole thread. I PM'ed the OP and he's busy with work and a new baby coming but I figure the attempt at programming the ECU will be his first project.

Maybe someone else will download the App, buy the cable and see what they can do. Hopefully they'll tell us about it. I'm quite curious about the inner workings of that little magic box too,... I'm convinced it uses data from the second O2 sensor to adjust fuel trim after observing the O2 readings on my Ultragauge (our car is the ONLY OBD-II gas powered vehicle that the UG won't show closed-loop for. The UG people tried to say our ECU's are defective,... but they're just special)

Be careful though we all know about Pandora's Box.
 
...your example actually moves in towards rocket science, literally...as if you have an object that throws a percentage of ITS OWN mass behind it, at a fixed rate, it creates thrust and exponential acceleration...not the case with a car, as the road underneath it is not part of its own mass...

That's it exactly,... the tire picks up the mud (making it part of it's own mass,... the tire can weigh many pounds more coated in mud) then throws it backwards.
Just like throwing a baseball, it imparts the exact same force on you when it leaves your hand as you give it. If you go to throw the ball but don't let go all the energy stays within the system.
A jet ski is a very close example, it doesn't throw it's own mass.

Granted these forces are very small but in the muck throwing perhaps a few hundred pounds of goo in a few minutes can make a difference.

On the road you're not gonna throw that kind of mass. (but the cleats would really help with traction)
 
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If I had a choice in bastardizing the stock ECU so that it might end up doing what I hope it can...

vs

Installing a Haltech (or other similarly designed device) that can do exactly what I need and more...





The point is, path of least resistance, The Haltech is proven to work and all of the R&D is already done. Why the hell would you try something else that has no possibility of outperforming, and has the possibility of not working at all..
 
Money is my resistance factor but I'd spend a couple hundred to save some gas.
 
^Yea that's what started this whole thread. I PM'ed the OP and he's busy with work and a new baby coming but I figure the attempt at programming the ECU will be his first project.

Maybe someone else will download the App, buy the cable and see what they can do. Hopefully they'll tell us about it. I'm quite curious about the inner workings of that little magic box too,... I'm convinced it uses data from the second O2 sensor to adjust fuel trim after observing the O2 readings on my Ultragauge (our car is the ONLY OBD-II gas powered vehicle that the UG won't show closed-loop for. The UG people tried to say our ECU's are defective,... but they're just special)

Be careful though we all know about Pandora's Box.

All OBD2 ECU's work this way, not just the Protege's. That is not the problem. It is that the data cannot be understood enough by a third part program to manipulate it. I am not a computer genius and the only reason I take interest in working on cars is because the only way I can race my cars is to fix them myself.

Think about it, even if you did hack into the stock ECU, the ability to manipulate it wouldn't give back any good gains any way. Nothing with an N/A FS does. Look at the Honda world, when they went OBD2 they found a way to run chipped OBD1 ECU's because it was impossible to hack into the OBD2 stuff and manipulate it to the degree they wanted.

Why do proffesional race teams in the Canadian Touring Car Champiobship, Continental Sports Car Challenge and Pirelli World Challange run whole aftermarket ECU setups? Because the stock ones are designed not to be tampered with. Race teams like saving money in any way possible, if this was a reasonable thing to do, people would be doing it.
 
My wheel tire combo weighs less then a stock setup.
 
Better yet, bring your car down to Ohio and run a SCCA or track event and see if you can keep up.
 
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