Upgrade on 2006 rear suspension to 2012

I axed the OEM rubber bushings (there was nothing wrong with them, just wanted to go with Polyurethane bushings instead) and in came Prothane (#19-1142BL) 26mm rear sway bar bushings and brackets.
Good choice!

About those top rubber mounts, are they revised for both front and rear (I would assume so)? How much do the new/revised mounts run for?
 
I axed the OEM rubber bushings (there was nothing wrong with them, just wanted to go with Polyurethane bushings instead) and in came Prothane (#19-1142BL) 26mm rear sway bar bushings and brackets.

Does anyone know if I can use this kit with a 1st gen rear bar without having to move/modify the OEM shaft collars?
 
Good news, thanks! I may go that route unless by some chance the 5-6 year old bushings on the bar I get are in good shape.
 
I would suggest you replace the bushings with the most current OEM bushing. Can't really tell by observation if it is worn, new/used looked almost the same. I first replaced it with the Energy Poly bushing which is wider than the OEM bush and it was partially deformed with MS3 bracket. Lubed the poly prior to installation, used a couple of months and then started clunking. Read on another forum to replace with updated OEM and did so... no clunking ...Happy Camper!

Only one problem still exists, over slightly bumpy terrain, I get a loose rattling sound consistent with feeling the top rod of the rear shocks. Maybe it's the loose plastic shock cover between rear shock mount and the old bumper? All is tight. Who knows?

Update Solution: The loose rattling sound was due to reusing the OEM Mz5 rear sway endlink attached to 1st Gen MS3 Rear Sway Bar...10mm stud in 12mm hole! Buy the endlink for MS3 = 12mm! Replaced all endlinks w/ Moog endlinks front and rear....heavenly>>> NO Noise!
 
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I would suggest you replace the bushings with the most current OEM bushing. Can't really tell by observation if it is worn, new/used looked almost the same. I first replaced it with the Energy Poly bushing which is wider than the OEM bush and it was partially deformed with MS3 bracket. Lubed the poly prior to installation, used a couple of months and then started squeaking and clunking.

At first I thought about going with new rubber bushings, but if I can get that prothane kit with bushings and brackets for less then I'll probably go that route. I've never had a squeaking issue with poly bushings in the past, probably because I use a ton of lube. Maybe I'll try out teflon tape this time, supposedly works very well and of course less messy!
 
Resurrecting this one from the dead. I just picked up a MS3 swaybar, it came with the frame bushings still on it but no brackets and the endlinks were MIA. I think I've read I can use the frame bushings with the 5 brackets, so tell me differently if I'm wrong. Last, what should I do about endlinks? I've read about using Moog endlinks for the MS3 but just wondering if the OEM MS3 endlinks are good too or are the aftermarket ones better and cheaper? Thanks in advance guys, looking forward to swapping this in!
 
Resurrecting this one from the dead. I just picked up a MS3 swaybar, it came with the frame bushings still on it but no brackets and the endlinks were MIA. I think I've read I can use the frame bushings with the 5 brackets, so tell me differently if I'm wrong. Last, what should I do about endlinks? I've read about using Moog endlinks for the MS3 but just wondering if the OEM MS3 endlinks are good too or are the aftermarket ones better and cheaper? Thanks in advance guys, looking forward to swapping this in!

i would get the moog end links. moog make good stuff. and definitely get MS3 links, since you need to match the link stud size to the bar.
 
Resurrecting this one from the dead. I just picked up a MS3 swaybar, it came with the frame bushings still on it but no brackets and the endlinks were MIA. I think I've read I can use the frame bushings with the 5 brackets, so tell me differently if I'm wrong. Last, what should I do about endlinks? I've read about using Moog endlinks for the MS3 but just wondering if the OEM MS3 endlinks are good too or are the aftermarket ones better and cheaper? Thanks in advance guys, looking forward to swapping this in!

I got Prothane bushings and brackets so I cannot confirm that OEM Mazda5 bushing brackets will work with the OEM MS3 bushings. As far as end links I bought the OEM MS3 end links and they are still in perfect condition and doing its job.
 
Ok great, thanks guys. I will order that stuff now, should come fast. My only question is whether to try to change it before my trip to Florida or not, I will most likely wait though, dont want to have to deal with an issue on a 2500mi trip.
 
Ok great, thanks guys. I will order that stuff now, should come fast. My only question is whether to try to change it before my trip to Florida or not, I will most likely wait though, dont want to have to deal with an issue on a 2500mi trip.

If you can do it before your trip then do it. You'll enjoy the better handling. Don't worry it's a simple bolt on mod nothing to worry about.
 
Do it before you go!! Set aside 1-2 hrs and since the weather is warming up and have more daylight, there’s oodles of time. The hardest part is getting you butt to start it. There is no worst case. If you can't finish or something doesn't sound right, remove it all together and try RSB (and end link) delete for your trip. You are working on an isolated and independent component that will not affect anything else.

IF I get my COs on, I plan to delete both stabilizer bars.
 
Its not the job itself thats stopping me. I've done trannies and timing belts so this is cake comparatively. I'm just worried about it making noises that will drive me nuts for an entire week. I ordered the endlinks so lets see how the week goes :)
 
I got Prothane bushings and brackets so I cannot confirm that OEM Mazda5 bushing brackets will work with the OEM MS3 bushings. As far as end links I bought the OEM MS3 end links and they are still in perfect condition and doing its job.

My bar came with the MS3 brackets, but they looked just like the MZ5 ones.
 
Its not the job itself thats stopping me. I've done trannies and timing belts so this is cake comparatively. I'm just worried about it making noises that will drive me nuts for an entire week. I ordered the endlinks so lets see how the week goes :)

As long as everything is greased up and bolted on tight you'll enjoy a crisper and quieter trip!
 
The links shipped from long island so I'm getting them today! If I can squeeze in the time I think I will do it. You guys are a bad influence lol.
 
I'm making a new post and deleting the previous 2 for consolidation purposes. The Torque specs are 30-40 ft/lbs for all bolts involved if anyone needs to know. I also want to add that the stock 5 frame brackets will NOT work with the MS3 bushings. If you got all of it together, use it as a set because the 5 brackets are not as deep and will squash the rubber bushings. If you didn't get the brackets, just buy the prothane ones as they are better and cheaper than factory plus they include new bushings at the same price.
 
So know this thread is 2 mos old but have a question on '06 vs '12 rear suspension-
Sounds like the '12 RSB is same diameter but different design (squared off at bushings?). What about the '12 RSB end links? Are those any different? Upgraded/beefier?

I have a stock '08 on its 3rd set of shocks at 55K (1st 2 were OEM, 3rd current set is KYB excelG), and developing asymmetric camber (could just be the rough winter) that results in lots of rear sway on right hand turns over bumps- rear left is visibly more negative. Not looking for a handling upgrade, but want to get it at least back to working the way it was from the factory without too much fuss and longer shock / component life. Was thinking of just getting new endlinks and RSB bushings, then an alignment. Would '12 OEM be better than '06 OEM links? More importantly, would that help?
 
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So I finally decided to bite the bullet and be the guinea pig for this upgrade. After numerous hours of research the verdict was that the 2012+ Mazda5 has an updated and reinforced rear suspension that mainly revolves around two main components: the rear springs with higher spring rate and the rear sway bar which is also thicker and higher spring rate as well. So I just ordered the following parts to do this upgrade to my 2006 Mazda5 and stiffen up the rear suspension without having to lower the height with lowering springs.

#CG37-28-011 Rear springs (2)
#CG16-28-151 Rear sway bar
#BP4K-28-156E Rear sway bar bushings (2)
#C273-28-012C Upper spring rubber mount (2)

The end links, lower control arms and cross-members are identical for all generation Mazda5 (2006-2013)

I just installed brand new KYB GR-2 shocks and I already have the two plates that hold the bushings to the cross-member (#BBM4-28-155)
I will update once I get the parts and get them installed.

On the bright side, those 2012 springs are $47 ea. compared to $72 for the 2008 springs.
http://wholesalesmazdaparts.net/par...iteid=218122&vehicleid=375741&diagram=5461675

Spring seats are $13 ea. vs $6 ea. on the 2008.
 
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