^^cool man, and no problem...
try to do the work in this order, assuming the car is mostly back together (partially reinstall whatever necessary if need be)...axle nut; break that loose with the car on the ground and the center cap of the wheel off...raise car evenly, remove wheel on particular side...pop the outer tie rod end out of the knuckle and just leave it hanging out of the way...remove the ball joint through bolt by means illustrated earlier...pop the knuckle off the control arm, also by what was said earlier...tap the axle back through the knuckle once you're able to move the knuckle pretty freely...at this point, it should only be attached to the strut, which is bolted to the shock tower with a rubber mount (allowing plenty of play for this procedure)...you need to tap the axle while gently pulling the knuckle...but you don't want to pull the knuckle so hard you inadvertently pull the outer cv joint off the axle shaft...its ONLY held in place by that little boot clamp...
once the axle end is pushed through the knuckle...remove the caliper and brake rotor from the knuckle...then remove the two bolts holding it to the strut...at this point, the knuckle should be completely free of the car...you can also easily mess with the tie rod end now, as literally nothing other than the strut will be remotely in the way...Keep in mind the threading; you need to move the locking nut AWAY from the tie rod end...so towards the engine/gearbox...after it is clear, you can loosen the tie rod end...and this is the right time to paint a mark on the threading to know how far to install the new tie rod end...same as everything, it may be a little stuck...a big pipe wrench, vice grips, or something to get some leverage may help with this...ALWAYS keep a proper sized wrench on the steering rack shaft, so you don't accidentally start twisting the inner tie rod ends loose instead...
these parts are often serviced during an alignment, so they shouldn't be seized like some chassis bolts...but you may need a little help to free it up...
then follow the bearing work per the youtube videos...i forget the exact order, but i know the clip has to come out before the outer bearing race is pressed out...you may be able to remove the hub and inner race (the bearing will split into two parts) before the clip is removed...i just can't remember if you can access the clip with the hub still pressed in place...Nothing with this work should give you problems with a press and bearing kit...if you're taking it to a shop, then don't worry about any of it...but if you're doing it yourself...if something is fighting back, the work isn't being done in the right order...with the clip removed...a 12 ton press will make very quick work of the outer race...with the clip in there, it'll load up and destroy multiple things...to press the hub out first, you need a washer that is only as big as the inner bearing race...
if you get stuck...take a few pics and put them in here, and have a beer...a lot of us check this site a few times a day, you'll have your feedback as soon as one of us sees it...