Front right wheel bearing went now car is making a hell of a HUMMING noise.. HELP!!!

Thanks alot man i really appreciate it! You have been a TON of help! As i get rides to and from work for the rest of the week im going to continue to try and finish this job... Im trying to be as patient as possible and am gonna try to get this done before the weekend. So ill be Getting a few things from autozone... 1. Outer tie rod end 2. new ball joint nut & bolt 3. Axle shaft nut... and I think I will be alright after that... Im sure ill be back here bitching sooner or later... But.. You know.. Its all good!

Thanks again!
 
^^cool man, and no problem...

try to do the work in this order, assuming the car is mostly back together (partially reinstall whatever necessary if need be)...axle nut; break that loose with the car on the ground and the center cap of the wheel off...raise car evenly, remove wheel on particular side...pop the outer tie rod end out of the knuckle and just leave it hanging out of the way...remove the ball joint through bolt by means illustrated earlier...pop the knuckle off the control arm, also by what was said earlier...tap the axle back through the knuckle once you're able to move the knuckle pretty freely...at this point, it should only be attached to the strut, which is bolted to the shock tower with a rubber mount (allowing plenty of play for this procedure)...you need to tap the axle while gently pulling the knuckle...but you don't want to pull the knuckle so hard you inadvertently pull the outer cv joint off the axle shaft...its ONLY held in place by that little boot clamp...

once the axle end is pushed through the knuckle...remove the caliper and brake rotor from the knuckle...then remove the two bolts holding it to the strut...at this point, the knuckle should be completely free of the car...you can also easily mess with the tie rod end now, as literally nothing other than the strut will be remotely in the way...Keep in mind the threading; you need to move the locking nut AWAY from the tie rod end...so towards the engine/gearbox...after it is clear, you can loosen the tie rod end...and this is the right time to paint a mark on the threading to know how far to install the new tie rod end...same as everything, it may be a little stuck...a big pipe wrench, vice grips, or something to get some leverage may help with this...ALWAYS keep a proper sized wrench on the steering rack shaft, so you don't accidentally start twisting the inner tie rod ends loose instead...

these parts are often serviced during an alignment, so they shouldn't be seized like some chassis bolts...but you may need a little help to free it up...

then follow the bearing work per the youtube videos...i forget the exact order, but i know the clip has to come out before the outer bearing race is pressed out...you may be able to remove the hub and inner race (the bearing will split into two parts) before the clip is removed...i just can't remember if you can access the clip with the hub still pressed in place...Nothing with this work should give you problems with a press and bearing kit...if you're taking it to a shop, then don't worry about any of it...but if you're doing it yourself...if something is fighting back, the work isn't being done in the right order...with the clip removed...a 12 ton press will make very quick work of the outer race...with the clip in there, it'll load up and destroy multiple things...to press the hub out first, you need a washer that is only as big as the inner bearing race...

if you get stuck...take a few pics and put them in here, and have a beer...a lot of us check this site a few times a day, you'll have your feedback as soon as one of us sees it...
 
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damn sounds like a cluster f%$#... its kinda a tricky job if your not well versed in suspension work, so just keep a a level head and dont get mad if things arent going as smooth as planned.
 
Replaced the tie rod end no problems whatsoever took all of 5 minutes... Ball joint bolt is STUUUUCCCKKKK!!!! I cannot get this thing out the bolt end is all chewed up from me trying to spin it and it wont just hammer out I was able to get the nut off easily but the bolt wont budge its almost like someone put red loctite in there or something....... Any suggestions?
 
Take your jack and put a little pressure on the lower ball joint cup (under the control arm; the press fitting that the ball joint fits into)...Jack the control arm, knuckle, and strut assembly up a few inches...

that through bolt works with the ball joint by fitting through a tapered section of the ball joint stud...it could be that the strut and knuckle pushing down on the ball joint is causing a lot of pressure on that bolt...holding it in place even without the nut...

don't overly jack it up though, you don't want to start to cause pressure in the other direction...i'd say jack it up 2 to 3 inches, and start hitting the bolt again with a center punch...Don't worry about destroying that bolt now, obviously its toast...but don't flatten it out so much it won't fit through the knuckle clamp...

Also, don't be afraid to hit all this stuff with a hammer a few times...just a blow in the right place can break these parts loose...
 
Yeah ill have to try that when I get back under the car... Just lift the knuckle up under the balljoint and try to bang the bolt out?
 
^yeah, try that with the jack in a few different positions...and keep hitting all that crap with PB blaster or WD-40 in between. You almost can't use to much of that haha...
 
Get a cut off tool and just make things easy, I'm sure you could find one pretty cheap. And when you pull the tie rod just barely break that nut loose like a half turn and unscrew pull the link. Half turn after its snug and your golden. (Install)
 
im not gonna lie it was kind of funny reading this thread. reminded me of when i did my gf's wheel bearing on her P5. if i wouldve read this earlier i wouldve suggested using this special axle remover designed to actually bolt down onto the hub and it has a center punch incorporated into it which you was fasten down and punches the axle right out. saves tons of headaches since apparently mazdas are known sometimes for the axles seizing inside of the knuckle.

the tool looks llike this

http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldatadi...34860071/34861355/96358670/95743423/171734532
 
im not gonna lie it was kind of funny reading this thread. reminded me of when i did my gf's wheel bearing on her P5. if i wouldve read this earlier i wouldve suggested using this special axle remover designed to actually bolt down onto the hub and it has a center punch incorporated into it which you was fasten down and punches the axle right out. saves tons of headaches since apparently mazdas are known sometimes for the axles seizing inside of the knuckle.

the tool looks llike this

http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldatadi...34860071/34861355/96358670/95743423/171734532

Haha! Glad I could entertain you with my miserable wheel bearing, Yeah i have one of those pullers... They suck for really stuck axle shafts I tried that first and it didnt even budge it all it did was lock up the threads on my puller... It deffinetly takes patients PB blaster and a big rubber hammer and just work at it and eventually it will come out... But it deffinetly sucks ass if they are stuck in there...
 
ahhh gotcha. well then i lucked out on my gf's P5 air gunned the cnter punch and came out like butter. now im just praying my wheel bearing on my MSP is just as easy lol. its really bad, causing my whole car to hum rattle a bit and vibrate at 45+mph .
 
Yikes! Get it fixed before your wheel locks up! For me it was a big pain in the ass because i drive it all the time as a daily driver. I live in new england so the salt and sand goes to everything... Its really easy if everything comes apart like it should. Its good to have a big rubber hammer, a tie rod end puller, the right sockets/wrenches, an impact gun eaither air or electric helps make everything alot easier for the job, a wiz wheel, snap ring pliars and a Shop press. I got a 20 ton press from harbor freight on sale for 120 bucks... And it was well worth it.. OR - You could bring it to a shop for about 245 bucks for the complete job..
 
Yikes! Get it fixed before your wheel locks up! For me it was a big pain in the ass because i drive it all the time as a daily driver. I live in new england so the salt and sand goes to everything... Its really easy if everything comes apart like it should. Its good to have a big rubber hammer, a tie rod end puller, the right sockets/wrenches, an impact gun eaither air or electric helps make everything alot easier for the job, a wiz wheel, snap ring pliars and a Shop press. I got a 20 ton press from harbor freight on sale for 120 bucks... And it was well worth it.. OR - You could bring it to a shop for about 245 bucks for the complete job..

yea i know, my msp is my daily as well. i slammed a curb and bent my front control arm right where the ball joint is, destroyed it really, bent both rear lateral links in half, and needed all new bolts and hardware. finally got it running and fixed and over the weekend i discovered my wheel bearing is screaming for mercy. i actually thought i had snapped my axle or something but its all good.

and i work at a dealership so just gotta find the time this week to do the job.

tools....check
bearing....check
30 ton press .... check
time to do it.....still pending (drunk)
 
yea i know, my msp is my daily as well. i slammed a curb and bent my front control arm right where the ball joint is, destroyed it really, bent both rear lateral links in half, and needed all new bolts and hardware. finally got it running and fixed and over the weekend i discovered my wheel bearing is screaming for mercy. i actually thought i had snapped my axle or something but its all good.

and i work at a dealership so just gotta find the time this week to do the job.

tools....check
bearing....check
30 ton press .... check
time to do it.....still pending (drunk)


Ouch that sucks dude - sorry to hear. But its cool you work at a dealership, access to a lift is awsome when you need to do some suspension work... I have lifts i could use at my work but i didnt for this because it was really bad and i didnt want to move it till it was done... did it on the ground in my garage.. Putting in a full exhaust this saturday though and im deffinetly gonna take advantage of my lift at work for that.. No dealership here though... Just a junkyard..

Goodluck on your bearing! (yippy)
 
thanks haha... and hey a lift is a lift. always better than working on jacks and stands. what exhaust u putting on? i have a corksport 2.4in that is soon to be swapped out with either a vibrant 3in or perrin 3in exhuast pretty soon.
 
I had the original RB exhaust and it was complete junk muffler rotted off so i just went with kinda the cheap route and got a magnaflow 2.25 catback supposedly it gains a decent amount of horse. and will obviously make my car run better since i have no muffler and the pipe is sitting on my crossmember making this annoying rattling noise!! haha but yeah... nothing fancy I Have a decent stainless tubbed exhaust manifold All injen hardpipes and SMIC a Injen CAI Turbosmart BOV and now will have the magnaflow 2.25 cat back... Nothing special here really id like to mod it a little more but im keeping it reliable so i can drive it to work everyday.
 
Part hub and bearing Seprate peices 125$. I changed mine last week take it to a shop have them do it one that seems like they know what they are doing or will let u use theyre lift.
Ull need a 11/16 for lower balljoint an controll arm.
18mm for the stablizer on controll arm and a 17mm for upper ball joint an tie rod.
32mm for axel nut an a Press!
Remove those 4 componetes spray lub on the axel shaft, an hit it with a hammer to impact gun if it doesnt bugg ull have to remove the axel with a pry bar an press the axel out of the knuckel.
 
I am about to tackle the same project, Front right wheel bearing on my 2002 Protoge5 and was just wondering if there are spec sheets out there that tell the right lbs/ft I will need to set the torque wrench at when I am putting everything back together. I was told that each nut requires different pressure for different parts such as strut, ball joint, axle nut....etc. Is this something I need to even worry about or is this something that should be strictly followed, I have some experience but have never tackeld a wheel bearing before and want to make sure I do it the right way. I plan on taking the hub to Napa Machine Shop after it is out and hopefully will only end up spending about $30 for I already have the bearing. Let me know what's good, thanks.
 
i had my left front wheel bearing replaced in 2011 at 98,000mi, and the right front wheel bearing less than a year later. how long do these supposedly last? i'm at 135,000mi. i am getting the same groaning noise i experienced back then. it sounds like a propeller airplane is under my hood. i had the car on jacks last week and shook all 4 wheels. tight as a drum, no play at all.
 
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