What causes rust in some P5s but not others?

Any auto parts store should carry the product i'm talking about...3M is the brand, but they have TONS of different divisions ..I got mine at autozone, and it was 3M Auto Professional Grade Rubberized Undercoating...its not cheap, its about twice the cost of some other generic products on the shelf right next to it (this was $11.50 a can, enough for roughly 2 wheel wells)...but 3M's auto body repair stuff is always regarded as some of the best...

And as far as everyone saying 'what type of grease should i use?'; that is basically what this stuff is...its just grease that will cure and hold itself on there...The stuff that comes out of this can seems just about as toxic as something could be...it smells like it'll catch on fire just by looking at it incorrectly...

but in either case...once it dries, i really can't think of anything that would work better for sealing off metal from moisture...I followed the directions on the can, but had trouble finding the exact products to use...the rubberized spray is the final step in rust prevention...you start with a rust dissolver (i used loc-tite naval jelly), body filler (if applicable, i used quick steel in my case), rusted metal primer (i used some rustoleum something or other)...and finish with this rubber gunk...

Honestly...after a few days of drying...it looks identical to what Mazda puts under the car to begin with...the good thing is i can spray this stuff in the countless areas that mazda decided to skip...

Thanks for the info, I will buy some come summer and grease the crap out of the rears when I re do everything.
 
Any auto parts store should carry the product i'm talking about...3M is the brand, but they have TONS of different divisions ..I got mine at autozone, and it was 3M Auto Professional Grade Rubberized Undercoating...its not cheap, its about twice the cost of some other generic products on the shelf right next to it (this was $11.50 a can, enough for roughly 2 wheel wells)...but 3M's auto body repair stuff is always regarded as some of the best...

And as far as everyone saying 'what type of grease should i use?'; that is basically what this stuff is...its just grease that will cure and hold itself on there...The stuff that comes out of this can seems just about as toxic as something could be...it smells like it'll catch on fire just by looking at it incorrectly...

but in either case...once it dries, i really can't think of anything that would work better for sealing off metal from moisture...I followed the directions on the can, but had trouble finding the exact products to use...the rubberized spray is the final step in rust prevention...you start with a rust dissolver (i used loc-tite naval jelly), body filler (if applicable, i used quick steel in my case), rusted metal primer (i used some rustoleum something or other)...and finish with this rubber gunk...

Honestly...after a few days of drying...it looks identical to what Mazda puts under the car to begin with...the good thing is i can spray this stuff in the countless areas that mazda decided to skip...

I had a problem with the factory undercoating. It dries like paint and the water eventually gets underneath it and creeps along hidden and unnoticed. I spent two days last summer scraping that stuff off. I would start where I could see rust and it had crept under up to 4 inches away.

Perhaps the 3M stuff is different and stays a little bit oily.
 
^^well factory undercoating is never meant to be permanent, its to last as long as the warranty...which is all that matters to Mazda...So scraping it off is not a bad idea after 10+ years...I was just point out that this stuff dries and appears to be very similar to whatever was used from the factory...meaning...it should last an additional 3 years without needing touched up...

its not just that...but mazda's application of undercoating is kind of weird...They seemed to just skip certain seams, leaving major areas of each well just bare metal...hitting those with this 3m stuff and fully coating each entire wheel well...is probably about as good as we're going to get...
 
Pre-Planned Obsolescence
Time 4 a new car

I agree with u.

I'd hate to see what my tin can would look like if there was no factory undercoating.

I only scraped off the french pastry stuff.

I'm pretty sure the original owner never sprayed it.

I recommend everybody start spraying their car from new.

I sure as hell would if I could afford a new car.
 
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I'm gettin a new toy tomorrow,... multi-meters are on sale at Canadian Tire,... I can afford the high end version,... auto power off,... no dead batteries,... like every car should be. $23.99

OOps I'm hi jacking again ignore this.


Maybe it's OK the OP is Canadian EH he lives in winterpeg. Every good mechanic needs this tool. The guy I sold my code reader to said his mechanic doesn't even have one,.... It's tough out here in the woods.

Say Hello To my Little Friend:

SUNP0183_zps507a8b3e.jpg
 
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Leave the poor guy alone,... can't you see his girl's got cancer. If the only way they can deal with it is to laugh then U should let them.

RIP reut1 I hope you enjoy your last days together.
 
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it's all my fault. I hadn't been washing it as much as I should so it was bound to happen. the p5 ain't going anywhere. this thing will be with me until it dies. love it too much
 
I'm hearin ya. I'm aiming for 7 more years,... I'm saving up all my bacon grease.
 
Any recommendations for a proper cleaning of the area before applying grease?

I would just wash it good with your basic garden hose to get the salt and dirt off. Make sure it's dry, you don't wanna seal in moisture. I would only pick off the really loose flaky rust.

This is pretty much just my opinion but I think scraping too much rust off is a bad thing, especially if the bare metal is exposed. I think a thin layer of rust gives the grease something to cling to and creates a thicker better adhered coating. I picture grease on smooth bare metal or painted surface and figure it could run off or be rubbed off much easier. The rust itself is actually the first barrier for the bare metal underneath, but instead of it holding moisture up against the metal, you get it to hold grease there instead.

I have used a thin oil first (like liquid wrench or any spray oil) to soak through the rust and get to the bare metal, but if you spray too much, the grease doesn't stick and then it's hard to get on there. Grease does have some tendency to liquefy and therefore creep through the rust to the bare metal, but I like to try to make sure it's saturated with the spray oil first. Perhaps waiting a few days after the oil spray then wiping off the heavy oil for the grease to stick better.
 
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