Water Pump???

Wow,...The only thing in the FSM close to the head gasket being the culprit is coolant leakage. How can a tiny coolant leak, even in the head gasket cause over heating ?? I don't get it ??

Maybe you two got the limited edition haunted version,... I'd friggin hate my car if I was either one of you two.
 
I meant remove the thermostat and run the car without one and see what happens.

Have you done a radiator compression test?

I've only heard of it happening but the fins on the water pump could have broken off
 
Lets hope he only gets this problem.

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Wow,...The only thing in the FSM close to the head gasket being the culprit is coolant leakage. How can a tiny coolant leak, even in the head gasket cause over heating ?? I don't get it ??

Maybe you two got the limited edition haunted version,... I'd friggin hate my car if I was either one of you two.

Headgasket makes it impossible to purge the air out of the system, thus there is an air pocket and the coolant starts to boil. The boiling make more air, so it boils more and makes steam, the steam pushes the rest of the coolant out of the bottle and you have an empty cooling system.

Savvy?
 
Headgasket makes it impossible to purge the air out of the system, thus there is an air pocket and the coolant starts to boil. The boiling make more air, so it boils more and makes steam, the steam pushes the rest of the coolant out of the bottle and you have an empty cooling system.

Savvy?

Don't forget the possibility of oil getting into the cooling system.
 
Headgasket makes it impossible to purge the air out of the system, thus there is an air pocket and the coolant starts to boil. The boiling make more air, so it boils more and makes steam, the steam pushes the rest of the coolant out of the bottle and you have an empty cooling system.

Savvy?

Tecky !!! Thanks man,.. I can sleep now.

Makes cents 2
 
Could it be a bad temp sensor/gauge? Is the engine 'really hot' when the gauge says it is? A bad ground could cause a false indication...

If the radiator is getting hot water and it is cooling it (hand temp test good) that eliminates the thermostat (OP already removed and tested good) and the radiator. All that is really left is the water pump. We have metal blades (some GMs had plastic blades) - so - i really don't think you liberated the blades - it just isn't that likely ;)

If the water pump wasn't turning - the timing belt would not be turning...

[shrug]

Unless the coolant is 'bubbling' in the overflow tank (not mentioned) or bubbles visible when running with the cap off, i would not suspect the head/gasket yet.

Because 'revving the engine causes temp to drop' i do not suspect a collapsing lower radiator hose.
 
So I took it in to a garage on Friday to have them diagnose it. Had it there all day and they couldn't get it to overheat. They said from what I was describing it could be a faulty t-stat. They said they have had non oem t-stats cause intermittent problems, they always replace with oem.

I picked up a new t-stat from the Mazda dealer. Looked exactly like the one from Checker, even said motorad on the side (Murray Ultra was the brand from Checker, not sure why it says motorad.

Anyways, replace the t-stat. Long story short, still have the same problem.

Someone asked if the coolant was bubbling in the reservoir, it is not.

Could low ATF fluid cause overheating, because it goes through the radiator to cool?
 
op, this is very similar to a problem i had. Unfortunately, mine turned out to be a head gasket. Hopefully you have better luck.

I just finished the thread: "hopefully: Final solution"

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123819761-hopefully-final-solution

i meant remove the thermostat and run the car without one and see what happens.

Have you done a radiator compression test?

I've only heard of it happening but the fins on the water pump could have broken off

bump
 
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