MP5 Haltech Sprint 500 Issues

G

greenguysnc

Member
Just installed haltech sprint 500 in my 03 MP5 turbo with 1.8 coil swap and 400cc injectors. Tuned the car and it was running great. Tons of power, smooth, best its ever run. Went back to shop to drop off some stuff. I shut it off, then when I went to turn it back on, it is missing bad, hard to even drive, and wont hold an idle, just stalls out unless you stay on the throttle. I drove it around and eventually got my idle back and it cleared out a little, but still was missing bad. Any ideas? Please!!! I want this thing to be on the road bad. Possible Coils Overheating?

Thanks!
 
Dirty EGR or vac leake?
 
tweety2300 said:
How are your afrs while it tuning like that?
Click to expand...

AFRs are between 12.5 and 14.7.

Motion Lab Tuning in Charlotte, NC Tuned it and installed it. They came highly recommended and seem to do a great job with everything they do.

I will check the EGR and look for vac leaks as soon as I get dressed haha. Its my one day off.. Thanks for responses and let me know if you guys think of anything else. I will post results of egr and vac checks.
 
What's your vaccume at idle?

I've been recommended to motion lab and I live in va they do good work, almost on par with Matt shue supposedly
 
greenguysnc said:
AFRs are between 12.5 and 14.7.

Motion Lab Tuning in Charlotte, NC Tuned it and installed it. They came highly recommended and seem to do a great job with everything they do.

I will check the EGR and look for vac leaks as soon as I get dressed haha. Its my one day off.. Thanks for responses and let me know if you guys think of anything else. I will post results of egr and vac checks.
Click to expand...

So if it isnt running well and you dont know how to tune... you take it back to them.
 
Ok I got it to run pretty good earlier. Then i drove it about 15 min, turned the car off, and now it will not idle again and it missing when running. I just put up a video of what the haltech is reading on the computer. It jumps all over when it starts running like this...


Thanks again!
 
what do your settings look like? Double check for vac leaks if you are positive the ECU has nothing to do with it and all of the wiring is solid.
 
Last edited:
Spiced MSP said:
what do your settings look like? Double check for vac leaks if you are positive the ECU has nothing to do with it and all of the wiring is solid.
Click to expand...

I am a little suspect of the 8ft long harness that came with the haltech. Just seems really long. Does anyone think it could be loosing enough through all that wiring to cause problems. Also does it at all sound like coils to anyone? Heat seems like it could be an issue. It runs fine once it cools all the way down. I tried tuning the Coolant Temp Correction table and did not get any great results...
 
What is the dwell setting set at? If the car runs fine cold, then I wouldn't mess with the correction maps. what is your AFR when it starts acting up? The harness shouldn't be a problem, I haven't heard of anyone having issues because of the harness itself. I also have the sprint 500 and only have it good enough to idle when warm. Mine still needs to be tuned.
 
I am now suspect of a boost leak somewhere and/or vac leak. It had three different codes at different times yesterday and the only thing they all had in common was possible intake leak. Then when I was driving it yesterday I noticed I would depress the brake pedal all the way and let off the car would idle up.
 
weird situation for sure...usually a standalone is 'easy' to tune for a warmed up engine, meaning once the car is warmed up fully...everything is fine...the harder part of street tuning is the correction maps related to colder starts...which is why you'll mostly find users with pretty annoying problems until the engine warms up...and everything is fine...

you're having the opposite issue...i have no experience with haltech's or their software...but it seems pretty likely you have an electrical issue of some kind...why would the coolant and tps reading hop around like that?...and what do you mean by codes? are they trouble codes 'found' by the haltech? Or do you have some sort of parallel set up using the stock ecu in some way?...depending on the nature of a parallel system, you may be having the stock ecu fight the haltech when in closed loop (a similar problem many have with piggybacks)...but this would be pretty unlikely, as the stock ecu goes into closed loop less than a minute after start up...and well before the engine is fully warmed up...so if it was this, it would probably never run right...
 
check your brake booster hose. The Sprint 500 isn't capable of reading/storing codes and it has to be ran as a parallel setup. There aren't enough outputs on the Sprint 500 to run it as a complete standalone. So the stock ECU still has to control all other functions not directly related to tuning. Although mine isn't completely tuned across the entire map, my idle is pretty much stable so I doubt it's the ECU conflicting with the stock ECU....unless like you said, it is an electrical issue. There may be a wire somewhere in your installation that may be getting interference from another wire which is messing up the signal to each channel(TPS and coolant) in the Haltech ECU.
 
if the sensors worked fine before, it has to be something with the Haltech installation since it can utilize all stock sensors. Not disagreeing with you though, maybe it could have been a preexisting condition that was only found when using the ecu manager
 
I still dont understand why if it is a new install... He doesnt want to just take it back there... and get what he paid for... A car that ******* works..
 
^ Agreed.

Shouldn't cost you any money to have them verify that they did the job you paid them to do. The worst thing they tell you is no and if that happens at least you know they won't stand by thier work. And you'll know never to go to them again.
 
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