What have you done to your CX-5 today?

Replaced the serpentine and water pump belts. More of a PITA than it should have been thanks to the "flex" belt for the water pump (there is no tensioning assembly for it) and the auto-tensioner for the main belt. I'm going to get a specialty tool to make the next auto-tensioner job on whatever vehicle easier.
 
Replaced the serpentine and water pump belts. More of a PITA than it should have been thanks to the "flex" belt for the water pump (there is no tensioning assembly for it) and the auto-tensioner for the main belt. I'm going to get a specialty tool to make the next auto-tensioner job on whatever vehicle easier.
Are you using aftermarket belts such as Gates? It’s been said several times here that if you use aftermarket water pump stretch belt it’d be more difficult to install as it’s a bit smaller than the OEM water pump stretch belt.
 
And were those comparisons with new factory vs new aftermarket? If not then it's false information. I used Dayco belts. Fact of the matter is, any new belt is going to be harder to install than a used one. Especially true of something like this arrangement with no means to move the pulleys.
 
Well, I used Gates belts, and that water pump belt was an absolute b*tch to get back on. Don't know if it was smaller than OEM, or just new. After the fact I saw that there are (fairly cheap) wedges for sale on Amazon for this purpose. Next time I'll get them first.
 
Well, I used Gates belts, and that water pump belt was an absolute b*tch to get back on. Don't know if it was smaller than OEM, or just new. After the fact I saw that there are (fairly cheap) wedges for sale on Amazon for this purpose. Next time I'll get them first.
If I remember correctly you even tried the zip tie through the pulley trick, and the zip tie snapped off? My OEM belt rolled right in super easy with a zip tie. Granted, my CX-5 was the 2.0L and the belt could be easier to get on too.
 
And were those comparisons with new factory vs new aftermarket? If not then it's false information. I used Dayco belts. Fact of the matter is, any new belt is going to be harder to install than a used one. Especially true of something like this arrangement with no means to move the pulleys.
Here’s another testimony that using the OEM water pump stretch belt for easy installation.


Hi, I only used OEM, I had no fitment issues and the installation was easy, I just followed the youtube videos.. I figured if the original OEM parts lasted 162,000 miles, might as well go with OEM and try to reach 300,000 miles without changing again. I'm going to drive this thing until it can't run anymore, LOL. These are the part numbers I used for 2016 CX-5:

Part Number​
Part Name​
Price​
Quantity​
Total​
PE03-15-980C​
Tensioner​
$132.61​
1​
$132.61​
PY01-15-909A​
Serpentine Belt​
$33.11​
1​
$33.11​
PY01-15-908​
Water Pump Belt​
$16.15​
1​
$16.15​
 
Got some Continental Viking Contact 7 tires put on today.

EDIT: We'll see how they do in the snow compared to my old Blizzak WS90's. I will say right off the bat that on dry pavement they are dead silent. Enough that it was extremely apparent the difference driving away from Discount Tire.

My main hope with these is more longevity as the first layer compound on the Blizzaks tend to just wear out too fast here during the dry and occasionally warm periods between major snows. Time will tell.
 
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Got some Continental Viking Contact 7 tires put on today.

EDIT: We'll see how they do in the snow compared to my old Blizzak WS90's. I will say right off the bat that on dry pavement they are dead silent. Enough that it was extremely apparent the difference driving away from Discount Tire.

My main hope with these is more longevity as the first layer compound on the Blizzaks tend to just wear out too fast here during the dry and occasionally warm periods between major snows. Time will tell.
Blizzaks are soft and grabbing ice like no other tire I have met. Thus, longevity is short ((
 
FYI for all, the 2015 2.5 liter water pump pulley is solid, so you can't do the zip tie trick.
 
Dipstick.
Duh.
Well - different years different situation - 2019-2024 have a very short plastic dipstick which is extremely difficult to access - and if you are lefty - even better - but its below the airbox and attached with a 10mm bolt as well -- on Turbos -really difficult - anyhow - Some use OBD scanners to check it --some can get it from above . others from below after being hoisted ? thanks
 
Well - different years different situation - 2019-2024 have a very short plastic dipstick which is extremely difficult to access - and if you are lefty - even better - but its below the airbox and attached with a 10mm bolt as well -- on Turbos -really difficult - anyhow - Some use OBD scanners to check it --some can get it from above . others from below after being hoisted ? thanks
All of them have that short dipstick. And yes it's below the airbox, which can be removed in 30 seconds by removing 2 10mm bolts, and then pulling the bottom of the box straight up and out of the way.
 
All of them have that short dipstick. And yes it's below the airbox, which can be removed in 30 seconds by removing 2 10mm bolts, and then pulling the bottom of the box straight up and out of the way.
Historically checking the ATF requires the engine be at operating temp ( my old 3 says drive it then stop , idle check ) and at idle - so its a hand burner , if i pull the airbox off -will the rpm change - or are u getting an accurate read with the airbox off ?
 
Question for the group.... I was going to rotate my tires and was going to use the spare temporarily as I do the crossover rotation. I just learned that my spare does not fit. It's hitting the caliper.

Attached are pics of the spare.....
 

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Question for the group.... I was going to rotate my tires and was going to use the spare temporarily as I do the crossover rotation. I just learned that my spare does not fit. It's hitting the caliper.

Attached are pics of the spare.....
If you have the 2.5T, your front brakes are bigger. If you have a flat in the front, you'll need to replace the rear with the spare and move the rear to the front.

You'll need to cross rotate the rear with the temp first.
 
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