What have you done to your CX-5 today?

DIY Oil change with Castrol Edge full synthetic 0W-20 oil, Mazda filter.

Last oil change was at dealer when they had vehicle to check for warranty issues.
The Drain plug was welded on/overtorqued from dealer. Was able to get off with alot of leverage. At the point you need to run a pipe over your breaker bar, means the plug was over-torqued.
Luckily the oil pan does not appear to be cracked. But this is just one of many reasons, I prefer to DIY or have my local mechanic work on my vehicle.

Also, sent oil sample to Blackstone as questionable as to what oil they used.

Am thinking they might have used either a substandard dino oil or blended barrel oil instead of full synthetic. Will be interesting to see the UOA results.

It's a miracle that the plug wasn't stripped being THAT tight! Those techs who use air tools to tighten the drain plugs gotta be some kind of stupid!
 
It's a miracle that the plug wasn't stripped being THAT tight! Those techs who use air tools to tighten the drain plugs gotta be some kind of stupid!
Yeah there was one spot where it caught a little putting the plug back in but it went. Think the only thing that saved it was the crush washer. Luckily had some extra washers.

Will have to keep watch on threads next oil change. Anyone know what's softer:
Oil pan threads or drain plug threads?
 
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I'm so anal, not only do I use a fresh crush washer every change, I even use a torque wrench set to 28 ft.lbs.
Yes, I always use a new aluminum washer on drain plug for oil change or any fluid changes. But I use the feeling of my arm to tighten the drain plug up from my many years of oil change experience.

BTW, the official torque spec for the drain plug published by Mazda is 22 ~ 30 ft•lbf (a Mazda special using a RANGE for all torque specs).
 
Yes, I always use a new aluminum washer on drain plug for oil change or any fluid changes. But I use the feeling of my arm to tighten the drain plug up from my many years of oil change experience.

BTW, the official torque spec for the drain plug published by Mazda is 22 ~ 30 ft•lbf (a Mazda special using a RANGE for all torque specs).

I wonder if the drain plug torque value is different for a 'dry' plug vs. a 'wet' plug?

I don't use a torque wrench on my drain plugs either. I've done enough of them over the years that my arm has been calibrated properly.
 
Yes, I always use a new aluminum washer on drain plug for oil change or any fluid changes. But I use the feeling of my arm to tighten the drain plug up from my many years of oil change experience.

BTW, the official torque spec for the drain plug published by Mazda is 22 ~ 30 ft•lbf (a Mazda special using a RANGE for all torque specs).

Yes, 28 is indeed between 22 and 30.
 
Yeah there was one spot where it caught a little putting the plug back in but it went. Think the only thing that saved it was the crush washer. Luckily had some extra washers.

Will have to keep watch on threads next oil change. Anyone know what's softer:
Oil pan threads or drain plug threads?
Yeah you should check the condition of the drain plug next time. If it shows any sign of unusual wear on the thread, just replace it with a new one.

In theory when car manufactures design the drain plug, it has to be a little softer than the oil pan thread. But you never know if most car manufactures care and they could just get whatever the cheaper way on this.
 
Yes, I always use a new aluminum washer on drain plug for oil change or any fluid changes. But I use the feeling of my arm to tighten the drain plug up from my many years of oil change experience.

BTW, the official torque spec for the drain plug published by Mazda is 22 ~ 30 ft•lbf (a Mazda special using a RANGE for all torque specs).
I'm a mechanical Engineer. The spec is probably 26 with a 15% tolerance either direction. Their specical spec takes the math out of it. They could say 26 +/- 4. Or just say 26, with an asterisk regarding the tolerance. But that might be too complicated for some folks.

Personally I appreciate that they include the tolerance, it gives a better feel for how much precision matters for the application, if nothing else.

BTW, I thought my drain plug was super tight the first time I did my oil change. I used a torque wrench and new crush washer when replacing it. On my 2nd oil change at home, once again, it took a lot of torque to break free. I suspect it takes considerably more torque to break loose then what it was tightened to.

I use a Fumoto valve now. I think the odds of having a problem due to Fumoto are no greater than the jeopardy of the system that relies on a soft crush washer (that is supposed to be replaced each time) and proper torque.
 
Yeah you should check the condition of the drain plug next time. If it shows any sign of unusual wear on the thread, just replace it with a new one.

In theory when car manufactures design the drain plug, it has to be a little softer than the oil pan thread. But you never know if most car manufactures care and they could just get whatever the cheaper way on this.

"in theory" is about right.

Kinda like when a fuse is 'supposed' to protect a circuit. In theory the fuse should blow before any damage is done to a circuit. In practice? Yeah, not always. Sometimes the magic smoke still escapes from an expensive component in order to protect the inexpensive fuse.
 
"in theory" is about right.

Kinda like when a fuse is 'supposed' to protect a circuit. In theory the fuse should blow before any damage is done to a circuit. In practice? Yeah, not always. Sometimes the magic smoke still escapes from an expensive component in order to protect the inexpensive fuse.
Well, to be fair, circuit breakers and fuses are there to protect the car's wiring, and not necessarily whatever is hooked up to that.
 
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Brought it home! Been loving these for a while and finally found the right one (or close enough). Traded in my Silverado and so glad to be able to park and afford gas again! See y’all around!
 
Changed the transfer case oil, was happy the old stuff came out looking almost new (had approx 43,000 miles on it). Checked the trans fluid level while I was under there and taped up a crack in the front below-bumper plastic with some Gorilla tape. Cleaned my air filter as well.
 
Replaced the regular auto-dimming mirror with a frameless one.
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Installation was super easy and took around 10 minutes including the time it took me to figure out how to remove the plastic cover around the mirror mount. (More details here)

It's made by Gentex, the same brand as the OEM Mazda auto-dimming mirrors. Apparently it's an updated model that has Bluetooth so you can program garage doors and smart devices from your phone. I am not sure how that works, but it can control garage doors for sure.

PS: Also I realized that my dashcam hardwire adapter (that connects to the fuse box) shuts itself every time I use MyMazda to remote start the car. The only way to get it working again is to disconnect both fuses and reconnect them. Has anyone experienced this?
 
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Replaced the regular auto-dimming mirror with a frameless one.
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Installation was super easy and took around 10 minutes including the time it took me to figure out how to remove the plastic cover around the mirror mount. (More details here)

It's made by Gentex, the same brand as the OEM Mazda auto-dimming mirrors. Apparently it's an updated model that has Bluetooth so you can program garage doors and smart devices from your phone. I am not sure how that works, but it can control garage doors for sure.

PS: Also I realized that my dashcam hardwire adapter (that connects to the fuse box) shuts itself every time I use MyMazda to remote start the car. The only way to get it working again is to disconnect both fuses and reconnect them. Has anyone experienced this?
Is that also a dash cam I see it the picture? If so what make and model?
 
Bought these 2day. Turns out they are made of pure Deutronium. OK, so when the wheels start spinning they create a Tacyion field which acts as a turboencabulator. Spins the the angry snail in the engine bay faster. Guaranteed, net result is 30 WHP. :p
 

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Good luck with those. I got some Saab ones once for my old Saab... some MF'er stole them!
 
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