What have you done to your CX-5 today?

DubbuD said:
Took it in for the first oil change at 4700 km to get rid of the break-in oil. From here on out it'll be all on the interval of 8000 km/6 mo.
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Yes, it’s perhaps a bit old fashioned but I changed mine today at just under 7000 for the same reason. It will get done again at 12 months and then every 12 months or 12500 miles as required in the UK. It’s a bit more involved on the diesel as the “oil data” must be re set so I’ll detail it in the how to section at some stage. For now, a view of the engine with the various shields removed.

6EF574D8-DA89-498A-96B4-9A017A3C8060.jpg
 
Savageese a YouTube reviewer sent his mzd moly for oil analysis after 15k miles. The final comment said send it back after 18k miles next time. Granted it was 2L - feel my 8k miles per OC is spot on.
 
Kaps said:
Savageese a YouTube reviewer sent his mzd moly for oil analysis after 15k miles. The final comment said send it back after 18k miles next time. Granted it was 2L - feel my 8k miles per OC is spot on.
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You’re saying it wasn’t worth changing the oil? You may well be right and what I did today just satisfies my old fashioned conscience but I’ve got no concrete evidence that it was necessary. In some ways, I hope it was a waste of time but I think this car will be a keeper so I’ll set it off in life with as good a chance as possible. This oil analysis service that seems commonplace in the US is virtually unheard of in the UK. I wouldn’t know who provides such a service.
 
Anchorman said:
Youre saying it wasnt worth changing the oil? You may well be right and what I did today just satisfies my old fashioned conscience but Ive got no concrete evidence that it was necessary. In some ways, I hope it was a waste of time but I think this car will be a keeper so Ill set it off in life with as good a chance as possible. This oil analysis service that seems commonplace in the US is virtually unheard of in the UK. I wouldnt know who provides such a service.
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No i said i don't want to keep changing every 5k miles or so. 8k is perfect with moly. I can probably do 10 as well. But I will stick to 8. Oil analysis from the reviewer said he can drive on moly for 18k miles as well.
 
Anchorman said:
Yes, its perhaps a bit old fashioned but I changed mine today at just under 7000 for the same reason. It will get done again at 12 months and then every 12 months or 12500 miles as required in the UK. Its a bit more involved on the diesel as the oil data must be re set so Ill detail it in the how to section at some stage. For now, a view of the engine with the various shields removed.

6EF574D8-DA89-498A-96B4-9A017A3C8060.jpg
Click to expand...

Man, I wish I could do every 12.5k MILES. Our service conditions in NL are under the sever section since we see so much road salt, wind, and road debris for our roughly 8 months of cold weather. Plus I make a lot of short trips from my house to work (under 4 km), so my interval in the manual is set out as every 8k km (around 5k mi). And by the looks of it I'll have to change diff fluid at 30k? That seems excessive to me for diff oil....

But the oil interval doesn't bother me, most rigs I've owned, I had to do OCI of 6k km anyway, so 8k is low for me.
 
Dropped in Husky weather mats yesterday and just picked it up today from having XPEL installed.
 
Does anyone know of a subwoofer solution/enclosure that will sort of hide away in the wheel well area of the hatch? I always have long and bulky things going in through my hatch so having the sub in the way would be kind of a no go, but I want a sub; and I don't really feel like spending custom sub and enclosure money. Hahaha. Alternatively, I guess I could build and carpet my own enclosure to tuck away, but I haven't really got a lot of time to be doing that.
 
Kaps said:
Posting my Qs here in hopes of an answer :D
I want to add aftermarket Rear LED Tail Lights - never been fan of Touring turn signals. Pretty much blanked out by Texas sun.

My Q's for folks who have already done this:
1. Do I need to do anything specific after connecting the battery back? TPMS sensors etc. Or is it just disconnect, connect new lights, test them and fix them in and connect battery boom ?

2. Should I seal the lights before putting them in? Options that you suggest.

3. My steps are : Disconnect battery
Open rear access patch / door - unplug, unscrew current tail lights.
Add new ones, connect battery - test all functions - hazards, reverse etc etc.
After successful test mount the resistor on some metallic surface.
Am I missing some steps? Do I have to reseal it after the seal is broken when removing the larger tail light?
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Have you ever considered OEM GT LED taillights? Your steps should be fine. All aftermarket LED taillights are plug-and-play like OEM. I personally dont like the one with resister but if you want LED turn signals thats unavoidable. I dont think you need reseal anything as the light assembly should come with rubber seal or you can reuse the old one. Actually I dont even bother to disconnect the battery terminal and just to keep the ignition off should be sufficient.
 
yrwei52 said:
Have you ever considered OEM GT LED taillights? Your steps should be fine. All aftermarket LED taillights are plug-and-play like OEM. I personally don’t like the one with resister but if you want LED turn signals that’s unavoidable. I don’t think you need “reseal” anything as the light assembly should come with rubber seal or you can reuse the old one. Actually I don’t even bother to disconnect the battery terminal and just to keep the ignition off should be sufficient.
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OEM GT is going to be $$$$$ - ones i looked are dropped from 260 to 56 bucks. I will take a 50 dollar chance and keep my originals as backup.
So I think i am good to go. Lets see if i am able to pull this off.
 
DubbuD said:
Does anyone know of a subwoofer solution/enclosure that will sort of hide away in the wheel well area of the hatch? I always have long and bulky things going in through my hatch so having the sub in the way would be kind of a no go, but I want a sub; and I don't really feel like spending custom sub and enclosure money. Hahaha. Alternatively, I guess I could build and carpet my own enclosure to tuck away, but I haven't really got a lot of time to be doing that.
Click to expand...
1. You can either get a pre-owned Bose sub to fit in the reserve tire if there is any in the market.

2. You can make your own thick fiberglass or hardwood enclosure that would fit the wheelwell area.

3. You can get the same sub that I got which is removable via a single screw and plastic terminals for the wiring. Around 1 minute tops to remove.
7eregrine said:
How's it sound?
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I'm so happy with the sound
Very very tight if that's your thing. The combination of class D amplification and passive radiators are what I expected them to be. Minimal or nearly no artificial extensions. Very punchy too. I unplugged the stock Bose "sub" because they do not integrate well with the new sub. The Bose "sub" itself holds it's own. However I was looking for the added weight below 40hz where the Bose starts to roll off. I also used the stock configuration of the xover cutoff of the system.

My reference home speakers is what I own. Golden Ear Triton 2+. That was my 2nd taste of passive radiators.

Is it worth the $350+ air shipping to my country? Yeah! If you looking for quality low frequency reproduction, this could be for you. It also plays loud but I really never tried pumping up the gain.
 
Nelson de Leon said:
1. You can either get a pre-owned Bose sub to fit in the reserve tire if there is any in the market.

2. You can make your own thick fiberglass or hardwood enclosure that would fit the wheelwell area.

3. You can get the same sub that I got which is removable via a single screw and plastic terminals for the wiring. Around 1 minute tops to remove. I'm so happy with the sound
Very very tight if that's your thing. The combination of class D amplification and passive radiators are what I expected them to be. Minimal or nearly no artificial extensions. Very punchy too. I unplugged the stock Bose "sub" because they do not integrate well with the new sub. The Bose "sub" itself holds it's own. However I was looking for the added weight below 40hz where the Bose starts to roll off. I also used the stock configuration of the xover cutoff of the system.

My reference home speakers is what I own. Golden Ear Triton 2+. That was my 2nd taste of passive radiators.

Is it worth the $350+ air shipping to my country? Yeah! If you looking for quality low frequency reproduction, this could be for you. It also plays loud but I really never tried pumping up the gain.
Click to expand...
OEM spare-tire Bose sub has a tiny 5 woofer/driver. It cant be too much good for low-end bass!
 
Installed the Spigen Kuel mount for the cellphone. Radar Detector hardwired and installed behind the Sunstrip Tine. Hardwired Dashcam and attached to the forward Radar/Camera housing.

38894072381_bf28aea43c_b.jpg
 
DubbuD asked, so I had to. (eekdance)
I had the same dilemma, as him.
It is not kick ass, it's ghetto. But nobody sees it anyway.
All I have lost, is 2" height from the floor.
 
Last edited:
SixPackABS said:
Installed the Spigen Kuel mount for the cellphone. Radar Detector hardwired and installed behind the Sunstrip Tine. Hardwired Dashcam and attached to the forward Radar/Camera housing.

38894072381_bf28aea43c_b.jpg
Click to expand...

Nice work with the dash cam and radar detector!
 
DubbuD said:
Does anyone know of a subwoofer solution/enclosure that will sort of hide away in the wheel well area of the hatch? I always have long and bulky things going in through my hatch so having the sub in the way would be kind of a no go, but I want a sub; and I don't really feel like spending custom sub and enclosure money. Hahaha. Alternatively, I guess I could build and carpet my own enclosure to tuck away, but I haven't really got a lot of time to be doing that.
Click to expand...

Amplified Bazooka Bass tube? They come in sizes 6", 8", and 10" (diameters) and in 50w/100w/250w amplification power levels.

The 6" amplified tube is 8.3" x 18.5" and it can be turned in F/B, L/R directions depending on the load being carried AND since it is constructed of a hard plastic shell, so it can be bumped or banged with little damage.

You will still need to spend a small amount of money (nothing is free), but it should be cheaper than the custom route and can move from vehicle to vehicle when the time comes.

Crutchfield sells them too and of course you could probably find them on Amazon, just make sure you have the right p/n.
 
Oh, and my thing done to the CX-5 is I installed the all weather Maxpider 3D floor mats front and rear; purchased off of Amazon.

They were much lighter than expected and are lighter in weight than the OE carpet mats they replaced. The Maxpider 3D mats fit snuggly into the footwells and have good coverage (about 2") along the rear and sides of the front mats. As the front mats move further up into the footwell, the side protection goes away, but they will provide good coverage for sloppy, wet shoes.

Also, the dead pedal coverage is good and goes up higher on the dead pedal than I thought it would when fist looking at the mats right out of the box, but it doesn't goo ALL the way to the top of the carpet dead pedal. People with large feet or who put their foot high up on the dead pedal, will have their toe area of the shoe extend above the mat coverage, but nothing is perfect.

The rear mats are a one piece thing that goes from door to door and covers the transmission tunnel. The rear mats offer good side protection next to the doors as well as good side protection next to the trans tunnel. The protection area under the front seats is about the same as with the carpet mat, but there is a small 1-1.5" lip on the leading forward edge to help contain liquids and dirt.

I don't believe the rear mats will interfere with folding the seats forward, but I haven't folded them so I can't comment on that right now. (2cents)

Cheers. (cheers)
 
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