What have you done to your CX-5 today?

Newer engines have more sensitive MAF sensors that can get fouled by any excess oil ingestion. I had to shelve my BMC filter after I started getting CEL (implausible air flow codes) on my Porsche. Had to clean the MAF and go back to a OEM filter. BTW, it was a new-ish filter, one I hadn't yet cleaned and re-oiled. So the offending oil was from the factory oiling.

Well that's interesting. From K&N FAQ:

Will a K&N filter cause my vehicle's mass air sensor to fail?

No. This is an "urban myth" and has not been supported by any factual evidence. The oil does not come off of a K&N air filter when it is in use, even when over-oiled or in extreme air flow rates exceeding 1000 CF'M.

If somehow K&N air filter oil were to make contact with a mass air sensor, the oil would not cause the sensor to fail. We have intentionally coated mass air sensors with our filter oil, and monitored the sensors' output when installed in daily driven vehicles. These sensors continued to function normally, even after being sprayed and submerged in K&N air filter oil. K&N air filter oil does not cause problems with mass air sensors.

https://www.knfilters.com/maf/massair.htm
 
FINALLY replaced the shifter switch in our CX5 that has been giving us fits with not turning the car off fully when pressing the Stop/Start button for several months now. Wife said she had to sit in a parking lot the other day for at least 5 minutes turning the car on and off, on and off, on and off, wiggling the shifter in park to try to get it to turn off. Replaced the shifter switch yesterday and now hopefully all will be good. Cost about $60 from Med Center Mazda.

On a side note, I'm appalled at how much stuff is held together with plastic clips. Only a few screws holding the console but then all the shifter trim panels are held with clips. I'm dealing with several broken plastic clips and other parts and pieces on my 25 year old Honda right now. I had to fabricate an entire aluminum bracket to hold the center vent stack on the Honda after some of the dashboard internal plastic parts broke off recently. I can't imagine what these newer cars will be like in 20+ years. Falling apart perhaps?
 
Well that's interesting. From K&N FAQ:
No. This is an "urban myth" and has not been supported by any factual evidence. The oil does not come off of a K&N air filter when it is in use, even when over-oiled or in extreme air flow rates exceeding 1000 CF'M.

I guess anecdotal evidence doesn't count as factual evidence in K&N's book. I've seen plenty of reports from Porsche owners with both K&N and BMC filters. The MAF is a good 8" from the filter housing and no other oil present (such as from a faulty AOS).
 
FINALLY replaced the shifter switch in our CX5 that has been giving us fits with not turning the car off fully when pressing the Stop/Start button for several months now. Wife said she had to sit in a parking lot the other day for at least 5 minutes turning the car on and off, on and off, on and off, wiggling the shifter in park to try to get it to turn off. Replaced the shifter switch yesterday and now hopefully all will be good. Cost about $60 from Med Center Mazda.

On a side note, I'm appalled at how much stuff is held together with plastic clips. Only a few screws holding the console but then all the shifter trim panels are held with clips. I'm dealing with several broken plastic clips and other parts and pieces on my 25 year old Honda right now. I had to fabricate an entire aluminum bracket to hold the center vent stack on the Honda after some of the dashboard internal plastic parts broke off recently. I can't imagine what these newer cars will be like in 20+ years. Falling apart perhaps?
Yep this's a norm that those interior trim pieces now use many plastic clips to hold everything together. Worse, those clips designed only go one-way easily during assembly, but it'll be difficult to remove separating trim pieces. Chances are the clip will be broken easily especially when it's aged.

On the other hand, most car owners don't keep their cars forever like you and me, so they don't care. :)
 
I had to make this piece awhile back to hold the center vents in my Integra after the entire plastic support bracket broke off. 25 year old car problems.

52090446_3092165394404222_7532593747254168927_n.jpg
 
I had to make this piece awhile back to hold the center vents in my Integra after the entire plastic support bracket broke off. 25 year old car problems.

52090446_3092165394404222_7532593747254168927_n.jpg

Sometimes you gotta fabricate. In <s>some</s> all too many cars, it turns out better than OEM.
 
Installed OEM rear splash / mud guards.

Was unsuccessful installing front guards as I did not have a *jack nut tool* and then was was unable to peel back the front fender guard.

Dealer was supposed to install but they did not arrive in time when they delivered the car. Dealer is 1 hr away, but may return so they can install. I*ll look in the *how to* section here first and maybe try again.
 
Installed OEM rear splash / mud guards.

Was unsuccessful installing front guards as I did not have a *jack nut tool* and then was was unable to peel back the front fender guard.

I was sure something was going to break in the process but it came apart without damage. There's no need for a jack nut tool, the part it goes into is temporarily removed from the vehicle so it's possible to do the job on a workbench. Install the jack nut by lightly and squarely tapping down on it with a ball peen hammer while using something firm on the underside to act as an anvil.
 
I was sure something was going to break in the process but it came apart without damage. There's no need for a jack nut tool, the part it goes into is temporarily removed from the vehicle so it's possible to do the job on a workbench. Install the jack nut by lightly and squarely tapping down on it with a ball peen hammer while using something firm on the underside to act as an anvil.

From a tip by another member, I used an M5 machine bolt with a hex head about an inch long with a washer and matching M5 nut. To expand the Jack Screw you insert it through the trim piece and with the flat part of the Jack Screw held flat against the trim you use a couple of 8mm wrenches to hold the hex head of the M5 bolt and turn the nut down. You will see the 4 sections of the Jack Screw start to expand outwards, just make sure they are expanding on the inside of the trim piece ! Once it is tight and fully expanded the center of the Jack Screw makes an X and fastens tight against the trim piece. They you just have to back out the M5 bolt and you are ready to reinstall the trim piece and use one of the provided bolts with the red Loctite on it to attach the splash guard to the trim through the hole in the Jack Screw flange.

It's also a good idea to use the 3M Adhesive Promoter # 4298. I had to buy mine from Amazon as I could not find it locally.
 
Jedi54, my GT-R is a twin to yours. I bought an extendable aluminum handle with microfiber mop heads from Griot's Garage to clean the roof, and need a small step stool to reach all of the roof surface. I also removed the front license plate as I believe it spoils the look. I would have told the dealer not to install it but they already did on every car on the lot. The plate bracket screws into a couple of divots on the plastic bumper cover. The plastic was cratered slightly around the holes from the screws and I had to carefully trim it with a razor blade. Then I installed a pair of black trim plugs from the auto parts store in the holes. It looks much better. I have not had a front plate on any of my cars here in CA for more than 35 years and only once was hassled about it by a motorcycle cop that was on a ticket writing binge in a school zone one morning and thought my infraction was as bad as the soccer moms who were doing 40 in a school zone and parking in the red zones.
 
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If you use a step stool anyway, why use a handle and mop device? I use a step stool and just use my regular microfiber wash mitt.
 
Finally a week away from going into the body shop to get my car fixed from that hit and run back in February. Needless to say, I am excited to get this fixed finally.
 
Had a low oil pressure incident during a sharp turn at low rpm on Satuday... lost some copper on an end bearing for sure. Luckily it's minor. 4.5qt of 5w30 and a .5qt bottle of STP high mileage additive preclude ticking until around 4500 rpm. Probably could never mess with it and be fine just minding my rpms but I'm gonna replace the end bearings. Ofc they are on nationwide backorder &#55357;&#56900;. Bad part is I had a box of ow20, atf and gear fluid for a fluid swap in car to be used the next day lol.
 
If you use a step stool anyway, why use a handle and mop device? I use a step stool and just use my regular microfiber wash mitt.

Because I can position the step stool on just one side of the car at about mid point and mop the entire roof without having to move the step stool around. Get off the stool to grab the hose to rinse, get off the grab a couple of waffle weave towels to dry, and get off the stool to put it away. That's about enough movement involving something like a step stool in wet and slippery environments if you know what I mean.
 
Both driver side tires had a nail/screw removed. Repaired and rotated for free at Discount Tires.
 
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