What have you done to your CX-5 today?

Stitches are out, thanks!

Just had my Blizzak WS90 tires in 225/65 17" put on today. We are in for snow through Wednesday and I have to go up to the mountains on Wednesday.

I had been in purchasing since the late 70s. In the days before cheap air freight, we would always add lead time for anything shipped from west of the Rockies starting this time of year.

Glad your finger's OK. What a pain...
 
Welp, came back although not as bad. Gonna just replace starter it does have 162000mi
 
At 57, 600 miles changed the ATF. Well, not really changed it, but drained 3.8 quarts and refilled same amount. Will do it again next week. Also drained and refilled the transfer case. Was going to do the same to the rear differential, but found I could not fit beneath the rear of the car far enough to access the drain and fill plugs. Guess I'll have to back up onto ramps and do it, or jack up just enough to allow access. Car is happy with her new drinks.
Cost for ATF---$11.04/qt (plus shipping), plus crush washer.
Cost for SG1---$30.85/qt. Used about 1/2 qt. plus 2 crush washers.
 
At 57, 600 miles changed the ATF. Well, not really changed it, but drained 3.8 quarts and refilled same amount. Will do it again next week. Also drained and refilled the transfer case. Was going to do the same to the rear differential, but found I could not fit beneath the rear of the car far enough to access the drain and fill plugs. Guess I'll have to back up onto ramps and do it, or jack up just enough to allow access. Car is happy with her new drinks.
Cost for ATF---$11.04/qt (plus shipping), plus crush washer.
Cost for SG1---$30.85/qt. Used about 1/2 qt. plus 2 crush washers.
When you refill the ATF with the same amount drained, youre assuming the factory-filled ATF is at correct level. Unfortunately many here who spent time to check the ATF level from factory fill during ATF drain-and-fill, all had found its low. You should follow the procedure outlined in Mazdas factory service manual to check ATF level properly:

Transmission fluid change without filter replacement

As for rear differential gear lube, its the same story. If you follow the procedure to fill the gear lube to the fill hole, youd need 0.78 quarts, not 0.45 quarts stated in the specification. In other words, you need to get a second bottle of SG-1 for proper rear differential gear lube replacement.
 
I had been in purchasing since the late 70s. In the days before cheap air freight, we would always add lead time for anything shipped from west of the Rockies starting this time of year.

Glad your finger's OK. What a pain...

Yep sounds about right!

Finger is fine, but I've noticed since the stitches were out that it is a little tingly and feels weird in spots. I'm assuming nerve damage. :(
 
When you refill the ATF with the same amount drained, you*re assuming the factory-filled ATF is at correct level. Unfortunately many here who spent time to check the ATF level from factory fill during ATF drain-and-fill, all had found it*s low. You should follow the procedure outlined in Mazda*s factory service manual to check ATF level properly:

Transmission fluid change without filter replacement

As for rear differential gear lube, it*s the same story. If you follow the procedure to fill the gear lube to the fill hole, you*d need 0.78 quarts, not 0.45 quarts stated in the specification. In other words, you need to get a second bottle of SG-1 for proper rear differential gear lube replacement.

I checked the ATF level beforehand, it was at the appropriate level and refilled to full, checking after car returned to running temperature. The transfer case was filled until it started oozing out the hole. I've got the second quart already. I am aware of the procedures, even though I may not have mentioned all the details in my post.
Thanks
 
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Purchased an oem starter for $48 shipped. Better replace this one before it gets stuck engaged or messed up the teeth on the flex plate
 
When you refill the ATF with the same amount drained, you*re assuming the factory-filled ATF is at correct level. Unfortunately many here who spent time to check the ATF level from factory fill during ATF drain-and-fill, all had found it*s low. You should follow the procedure outlined in Mazda*s factory service manual to check ATF level properly:

Transmission fluid change without filter replacement

As for rear differential gear lube, it*s the same story. If you follow the procedure to fill the gear lube to the fill hole, you*d need 0.78 quarts, not 0.45 quarts stated in the specification. In other words, you need to get a second bottle of SG-1 for proper rear differential gear lube replacement.

What if you just drain 3.8 and fill 4.0?.....should account for some low factory fill :)
 
At 83K on my 2014 finally got a small star on the windshield that cracked across the passenger side the next day. Got a new aftermarket windshield from a Safelite install yesterday at the cost of $100 deductible. Although I hate the loss of the 3M Crystalline tint and not sure if I will have the new one tinted at this mileage, it is really nice to have a crystal clean windshield at the moment. The the OEM windshield weathered and suffered a lot in the past years and the tint had some scuffs.

Interesting talking with the Safelite tech. He said he has changed his mother's CX-5 windshield twice already and it is new. Mine had taken some fairly hard hits at times and made it to 83K.
 
Interesting talking with the Safelite tech. He said he has changed his mother's CX-5 windshield twice already and it is new. Mine had taken some fairly hard hits at times and made it to 83K.

That is interesting.

From what I've read here, the older windshields were supposed to be more fragile than the newer ones.

I've gone through a number of windshields in other vehicles living outside of DC during the boom decades. Daggone construction equipment hauling debris without the mandatory covers to stop bits from falling off on the highway. Same goes for tires.
 
That is interesting.

From what I've read here, the older windshields were supposed to be more fragile than the newer ones.

I am very surprised that made it that long especially reading the amount of windshield replacements on this forum back around 2014-2015. I really chalk it up to being lucky I guess. Just hope the luck continues with the replacement.
 
Got around to changing the rear differential fluid today. Had to position car heading downhill backwards with rear tires on ramps. This gave me enough space to slide under the car and access the drain and fill plugs while still leaving the car somewhat level. I had no skinny sockets to remove the plugs so I had to use a 15/16" wrench on both. It used about 3/4 quart to refill, although not that much was drained out. I was concerned the fluid was going to drain all over the exhaust, but the stream missed it by about 1/2 inch.
 
A replacement starter came in, of course ever since I ordered it no more sticking..
 
I am very surprised that made it that long especially reading the amount of windshield replacements on this forum back around 2014-2015. I really chalk it up to being lucky I guess. Just hope the luck continues with the replacement.


I have a 2014 with close to 150K miles and have only replaced one windshield. And that occurred at a very specific spot when a truck hit a pothole and threw up a ton of pebbles that hit my car right as I passed it.
 
Purchased an oem starter for $48 shipped. Better replace this one before it gets stuck engaged or messed up the teeth on the flex plate
A replacement starter came in, of course ever since I ordered it no more sticking..
An OEM starter costs only $48 shipped? Is it a used?

Yeah that seems to be the fact of life. Replace the original starter at the next occurrence of sticking ⋯ :)
 
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